deankxf

could be all gummed up, waxy stuff. vacuum opens the gas valve inside then the waxy shit holds it open and most times it floods the engine and stalls and the converter freezes.. you could test that theory by pouring hot(not boiling) water over the converter before starting the engine.. if its good, then it needs cleaning.

as far as i know they will fit as i was going to go from EF into AU housing for same reasons. (sold project before doing it though)

take a photo of the headlights from the front, you can see in the ones listed here 2 headlights, one shiny the other not so much.. the shiny one will work brilliant, the dull reflector wont be good no matter what you do. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FORD-XD-FALCON-HEAD-LIGHTS/301565445418?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D29950%26meid%3D0029b59976c5414a96fbddd1479d36ab%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D171710989486 you can get the reflectors re metalised (rechromed) if you can see the thread here the massive difference that makes, even shows the light beams shined against my gates. pretty sure someone copied the thread to here, i cant find it so its an xfalcon link http://www.xfalcon.com/forums/index.php?/topic/38828-xf-headlight-reflectors-re-metallising/page-2

relays make a big difference too. but yeah, if the reflectors are crap bright globes make no difference.

that is a very tidy interior.. surely theres a market for nicer material on seat covers

My lexus you remove the headlight to get at the globes.. on an XD that would be simple also. unclip the spring that holds the indicator in, then 3 or 4 bolts and the headlight is out..= easy access.

newest car i have owned was an 1995 XG about 8yrs ago.. might be longer. older cars definitely have more character

i'll just throw in a what if.. if it adds up to $5000.... if you had $5000 in your pocket, would you buy your XD with that combo or a BA XR6 (or something else of similar value) only reason i mention this, is because its realistic. and i've done it several times.

looks good, they are a pain if too small to see the guages

this is sort of classic retro should be nice to use and not look crap in an XD http://rallyways.com/specialty/miata-nardi-deep-corn-330mm-steering-wheel/

the leaded 1984/1985 XF vac advance dizzy has the right plug. but otherwise XD/XE will need some cut/join there

i've always swapped the est to the vac advance one when i had issues, often something was wrong with it.. just the 2 wires to the coil yes. as for it working better.. not convinced, i've had good est things go well, put on the vac advance and noted no difference. as for the webber.. pretty sure the idle shut off solenoid is the main thing, often 12v+ on ign, but some early ones were vacuum switched? wont idle without it. choke usually gets 5V+? think its only 5, from the alternator. should run with out it if the manifold has water plumbed in and well.. it would be better as manual in that case. unplug the EST computer.. or remove it entirely. i left mine in place plugged in often, but once had some wierd issue that was caused by a faulty est still connected. if it works, dont touch it lol.. my new rule

just to confirm, does the standard pump work fine at 160rwkw on a 4litre? think i remember it being fine from your thread(this could help others)

i'd say look a few years ahead.what are you going to want down the track? i ruined several nice stock XEs by fitting V8s to them... by ruined, i mean they were perfect 6s that drove nice as cruisers. and cost $zero to stay that way.. if when you are off your Ps and want a V8 why waste your money building a 6 if you are going to pull it out, no one will be wanting one by then and even if they do it wont be worth much. if in a few years its going to be completely pulled off the road for major resto.. i still wouldnt build a motor till its close to done(might need an electric conversion by then?) emissions wise, theres not that much on any motor swap if its staying stock ish.. even the Barra conversion contains most of its emissions stuff in the ecu, on the engine as stock equipment and a cat.. the rest is probably already on your car(charcoal canister)

if the XF one works in basher, swap it over.. only difference should be the fuel return pipe from memory

gas guages interfaces used to be available to do this conversion.

wouldnt make any difference, the guages work when you fit a digital dash to the GL

i've always half filled the oil filter, should definitely help

what car is it?

are you sure it needs upgrading? i used an XF EFi tank and pump with My lexus V8 and had it tested on a dyno at full noise to test that and a few other things.. kept up no issue and the lexus drinks fuel on full throttle for 4.0 litres also.

bob jane did a wheel alignment for Me once with the ball joint so rooted it was making noise. i had it pedders checked after bob jane alignment wore tyres in not very long.. took it back to bob Jane to be told we dont check the car out before WTF.. since then, Pedders is all i trust. they have always been happy to show me the rooted parts while on the hoist too.

i've been told that if used tyres have uneven wear on them they will continue to wear that way also. how much tyre pressure? i was running 34psi most of the time.

whats a correction kit? I've had to replace idler arms every 12 months ish, 30,000-40,000kms only wheel alignment joint i trust is Pedders, never had uneven tyre wear since they have been doing them over joints that sell tyres. i had bridgestone tyre joint wreck 2 new tyres for me in less than a week after they aligned it "to spec" all parts need to be in good nic. mostly ball joints, idler, tie rods and caster (radius rod)rubbers wear out fast.. but inner control arm bushes and camber bolts "slipping" (never had pedders wheel alignment have the camber bolt move but beurepairs, and other joints have not done them tight enough... they sell tyres though)

the oil pump drive might be a little out, try moving the gear on the dizzy one or two teeth advanced it should drop in, then remove it and align it with number one in the right spot. it should fit. the oil pump drive can be hard to engage sometimes(thats the hex/allen key slot inside the dizzy shaft.. mates with the oil pump drive)

cool, plenty of people are using that brand, would be interested to see how they last.