deankxf

ask him if the disc can be removed once the caliper is off.. if so, same discs as yours. if its the one he recently got, calipers probably need a going over by the looks.. or is this the one out of his XF ute (basher)

yeah discs from XD ghia and fairlane etc are same as XF. hand brake cable will also fit the XD diff.(calipers are different, caliper winding tool for brake pad change is different, uses two pins from memory) the XC diff looks same and uses same calipers as the XD diff but the discs dont come off in the same way.(axel has to come out from memory on XC)

XC XDs had vented discs, XD ghia disc is same as XE XF but the caliper is different EA to EL were solid pic of XD diff with brakes.

if i remember correctly the mounting face on the end of the axels is oriented differently.. (drum brake style on XD diff i think) i vagely remember KCUF mounting EB brakes on a drum housing on his centura and just redrilling the mounting plates. but you'd have to check it.. the early diffs could be 2 types of rotor mounting, behind the axel like the 9" XC etc. and outside the axel like XE and XF.. i would guess you could re use your brakes on the XD housing if the wheel bearings are same type(XC ones wernt taper roller from my understanding).. but you'd need to check further on these points too.. i'd just use the brakes it came with if it was complete.. if not, then i'd investigate further..(i need a similar question answered..do gemini brakes on rear of petrol ones will bolt onto a diesel diff (commo disc rear fits the petrol diff, not sure on the Jap spec diesel diff though) why not use the brakes the comes with, keep the stock wagon diff whole if it ever needs to be reused.

10mm isnt much of an offset difference if i understand correctly seems a good easy conversion

so all the diff mods are a bolt on.. do the skyline axels measure the same length as corty.

XG will have a different flange to XF , pretty sure the uni joints are different (bigger) also (assuming your XF diff has the stock diff yoke)(they can be fitted to the XF diff to suit the larger EB XG type)

for that kind of money i'd be making my own.. i cant see why it would need to be rubber insulated, the early ones weren't, they just fitted a slot in the fork.. you might be able to buy a whole fork with it fitted cheaper even.. if they are still made(the bush hook thingy has tabs retaining it to the fork, so might not be removable in ford spare parts eyes, but they can be removed)

I'd like to hear the explanation for that quality

i used copper spray on My mates Rambler 343 V8 with similar pitting, drove all the way to WA from Vic towing a trailer and 20,000km before being sold with no issues still.. i believe there is a surface grinder thingy that can be used on blocks in the car.. not sure who'd have one though

is that clutch cable mount broken from clutch cable or some big chisel to make access for something

woo! that's a fair mess, i have had a small amount of similar damage in the past from the battery boiling from overcharging.

did you or will you get that head mapped for cnc machining.. would be handy to be able to bung in a few stock heads and have matching chambers and ports machined up for "spares" assuming its awesome.. looks like a proper thought out dream.. looking forward to seeing how this goes!

so does driving normally though, people told Me running alloy heads on LPG would wear them out etc.. probably does, but if its not driven much and runs fine, a flashlube kit even would suffice, saves adding it to the tank on every fill if you cant be bothered.. http://www.flashlube.com/en/products/valve-saver-kit.html

maybe with it removed it goes straight to top, cant remember but yeah, at least you know about it.

have you set up the TV rod(or with a cable) on the AOD yet, it needs it for the shift points, otherwise goes straight to top gear.(the kickdown looking lever\rod)i had a prick of a time setting one up on My XE about 15years ago, didnt get the correct rod or have a clue on where to get the carby side from

whats the go with the steering box, is the 260c one going to accept the 100 pitman arm.... sounds like a custom mod

they are self tappers, thickest ones i have seen with a phillps head on them about an inch long for the 2 main ones. the one near the handle is small and short. they go into a plastic thingy in the door from memory, are these going onto XF doors(wont have the plastic whatsit doover if so)

could of been a scratch from a piston ring being installed

something about it was different.. might have been the mounting location even

how much difference is a BW51, the EA 3 speed auto, i once bought one, needed to swap the bell housing, kickdown cable and extension housing.. didnt end up getting around to it. heard they were better.. if so, can the better parts of one be fitted to a BW35 or 40

Leyland P76 V8 also used them. I've had a heap of them die or dead on purchase of the car but never had a rebuilt one to actually see how well they last. ... Fitting a good Trans cooler does help 1st gear is taller than the C4 auto so when you fit a C4 it seems to wake the car up a fair bit

is 4th 1 to 1, assuming it will make more noise, does it get hot.. comes back to My original point of labouring outside the range of the cam etc i tried 3.23 with My AOD then went to 3.45 and then the ratios were all wrong for the rest of it..i should have left it C10 auto.

what ratio is in the diff and what is the top gear ratio.. i found when i fitted an AOD to MY XE many years ago with 2.92 gears it didnt like driving below 2000rpm on the highway, seemed more throttle required than the C10 without overdrive. i dont recall running hotter, but that could well be the cause, labouring due to being out of even the cams range and ign timing etc

doesn't it have a lot to do with the tune, air speed through the exhaust. My crossflow lost low end grunt when i went to a 2.5 inch exhaust, but picked it up with efi manifold and tuning with GRA throttle(was impco 300a on std webber)