deankxf

My diesel econovan thing even spun the wheels today.. was slippery after raining for first time in ages(as Ants mentioned) old tyres with even new tread don't grip as well as they used to either. 2mm above tread wear indicators isnt much in wet weather...

the EF water pump hose outlet is smaller too, so need to adapt the radiator hose too.. a mate of mine has an EL engine in XG with serp belt.. chopped up thermo fans(they dont fit the XG radiator as its narrower.) when i saw it.. i thought.. leave it stock lol..

post 7 on this page.. http://www.xfalcon.com/forums/index.php?/topic/41324-xg-outback-ute-troubleshooting/ i would say the larger one is for the ecu.. the smaller one for the gauge.

ask the cortina people on here maybe. it could even be from a leyland P76 or Valiant .. they also ran single rails.. just had a thought, could have even been cut down to get to better thread(which wouldnt work obviously due to height difference).. i just made one good one out of the 4 or 5 i had(all were different in some way or another, one didnt need a saddle bush at all, metal on metal)

that 5 speed has the shifter as part of the extension housing (not removable) it wouldn't surprise me if one of those housings is from a cortina even, i had a heap at one stage(bought several $50 boxes when My 351 was eating them at the time)

i was reading this post the other day and had these settings, assume they are the AU specs thats about the only help i can give, i haven't done it yet.... specs are in part 2 below (first have to torque all the head bolts to 40Nm (30ft. lbs) and then take them a further 90 degrees.) part 1 http://autofix.com.au/blog/how-to-replace-the-head-gasket-on-an-e-series-ford-falcon part 2 http://autofix.com.au/blog/head-gasket-replacement-falcon-4-0-part-two

this was mine with King Lows which is what comes up when i google the number. no idea on measurement, the car is long gone now

i had the shifter shaft machined a bees dick and new bushes made to suit and a new saddle bush and i would guess it must have been how new ones felt. was awesome.. it used to feel like it was in nuetral when it was in gear, even with the saddle bush replaced... it was that bad. haven't seen one that bad since, have had a few different types but the best way i found to fix the issue is to fit a T5 box... PS, while under the car doing the shifter housing, check it has oil in it.. the selector shaft seal is common to get chopped out and even though its up high can drain the box to empty in a short time(surprisingly they work for ages with no oil in them)

There isn't much to those shifter housings. An alloy housing that mounts with 3 bolts, a couple of bushings that wear in the housing that the shaft runs in,reverse switch and a welsh plug at the back.. Doubt that anything is damaged. You could go under the car punch out the roll pin joining the selector shafts and remove the 3 mounting bolts and work on it on the bench. .would be much easier to see what's happening especially with the grease out and welsh plug removed

well, i bought a car with this arrangement also once.. and i have put screws in from the side(dont put them in too long or it will lock the ball up inside... i know this due to reasons..)

its still on the interwebs in the dodgy bodge thread.. i screen printed it for you

that rules that out for keeping the hoses off the XG radiator standard.. need an adapter made up. I was given this link regarding using a "better" ECU .. EL one is apparently faster. http://www.tiperformance.com.au/knowledge-base/fitting-an-el-ecu-to-an-ea-ed-falcon/

Thanks Thom, think i'll drop in at the local wreckers and jam an EF radiator in an XG.. see if that causes any issues, or will an EB water pump fitted to the AU donk fix the different hose size issue keeping the rare XG radiator(that i assume means the belts will need to be EB XG ish rather than serp belt.) i think if i am pulling heads off and such, the XR6 head been on gas for 15 years (probably 200,000km also) might need some love anyway.. hence just dropping in something fresher and better(also cheaper than recoing anything also) if i do anything i'll post up My findings, at the moment the "it works, don't touch it" rule is keeping it in one piece.

thread revival.. more questions. eg.. have a current XG XR6 TICKford engine.. tired.. (noisy lifters etc) running on dual fuel Impco(will attempt to fit an impco 425 in place of the 200 in front of the throttle body, log manifold) don't really want to pull the XR6 engine apart.. not wanting extractors, figure the impco gas will be the biggest restriction.. thinking of a drop in engine that would be better(modding sump still fits the drop in rule for Egas AU engine) due to running LPG, would the AU Egas be the better choice, preferably on dual fuel, even with the log manifold. would an EL ecu be the best bet from one with tickford LPG fitted, assuming it can plug n play with a few wires added(for EL fans etc) related questions that need confirming.. 1. will it fit, mounting on XG base mounts and engine mounts(because its an XG with them already) 2. due to radiator hose diameter changing, will an EL radiator fit in XG(air con pipes might be in the way.. can move) 3. will the log manifold from the XG fit on the AU motor and be happy on premium petrol for dual fuel 4 will the AU serpentine setup on the AU pumps etc fit in the XG.. heard there is clearance issues on something, what's the fix if so 5. being auto, if using an AU auto, can the XG btr dipstick be fitted to the AU trans if its in better condition 6. will the AU auto plug n play with the XG wiring.. 7. would an EL engine be a better option for various reasons(sump for eg, what about pumps clearance) are the EL tickford Gas engines any different to a petrol one(cam,comp ratio etc) will a 3.45 diff ratio cause any issues on an EL ecu etc from something with say 3.08 etc (assuming thats what the EL came with) is it worth using the EL engine, to make use of the XG XR6 cam if its in good condition still.(rather than the AU Egas) is an XG XR6 ecu better than an EL one in any way.. would the BBM manifold be better than a log manifold when it has an Impco gas mixer as a restriction paging Thom etc..

ahh, i see what you are trying to do now.. am surprised that the caliper fitted that other bracket to be honest.

i haven't seen your caliper mount before if you are holding the one off the ghia,. i have ONLY seen ones that look like the one below. the one in your pic looks like it may mount straight up to the older XD type. one below is usual XF type and bolts on behind the axel. its almost as if you have an XD type diff with XE\XF calipers fitted which i wouldnt have thought even would fit

they wont bolt up to the older caliper bracket, if the bracket fitted the axel tubes then they could fit.

might need to get creative plumbing one up, but i agree, the 300a should be good. i am tempted to try one on an XG to replace an old 200 found this image which shows how someone adapted one

Impco L and B2 are basically the same. plenty good for a 225 impco. NEW is the way to go on the converter, the old ones can be very old, and just undoing the screws to replace gaskets and diaphrams can be a challenge..

there are kits for the shifter relocation, theres a pic of one done in the link below. extension housing stays same though.. http://www.trifive.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1056000&postcount=13

hardest part of the hard lines fit up is the mounting clips into the chassis mounts.. if you were to use P clamps tek screwed in that would be simple.

good opportunity to fit an S pack cluster perhaps..

THIS IDEA would be good, the EFI XE and XF tanks have a bigger opening for the fuel sender .. cant just screw them on but you could probably make a steel flange ring, oval shape, cut an oval shape into the XD tank and cut and mount an XG or XH E series wagan pump assembly in with bolts and gasket and keep the current sender as a fuel guage.. .. not even needing plastic welding.(an e series wagon one might also work.. not sure what they look like) E series wagon efi tanks are same fill point and mounting as XD -XFwagon etc probably not worth the hassle to mod. XF wagon efi fuel pump was mounted under the rear seat, probaby doable but resembles your current setup mildly(other than fuel lines dont run under the chassis rail(this cant be good for snagging on things surely) you could probably get a small intank efi pump and mount it in the XD tank hose clamped to the XD sender, the honda one i took out once was pretty basic in mounting might be as simple as bending the pipes or extending the fuel pick up to the bottom of the tank if the pressure is same ...(check this) note the milk bottle cap as reference to diameter of the pump itself

did you go the extra mile on the clutch cable mounting.. looks good!

something i saw somewhere,(might have been here) was someone running an XG or for that matter E series wagon tank in this instance, with the original XD sender also fitted to that same tank purely for the petrol guage side of things.... cost a bit, but if you are moving the filler neck its much of the same job anyway. i actually wonder if an XE or XF efi tank would fit under the floor in the same spot if you cut the spare wheel recess out.. fuel neck in the correct spot, fuel guage would work..efi pump inside tank and sort of a swirl pot built in... that would be My suggestion to look into. in my mind, i think you'll just have the spare wheel in the boot as the issue if your tailpipe runs the ouside of the leaf spring(look at Ants XD wagon for eg.)