deankxf

the mob that did My lights above were proper pains to deal with, they wanted me to post either way rather than drop in, but i had a BUNCH of them being done .. so did it in person, they said ready to pick up , and when i went there they weren't on site.. were ready at another location i wasn't allowed to go to, but hadn't arrived at the place i dropped them off.. so had to go back again. also when i originally dropped them off i asked clearly what's the cost of getting these done, (good ones and bad ones) to get an idea if they'd be wanting to do them for the forum members.. vague answers, beating around the bush.. ended up DOING the rough ones then charging me for them even though they "needed a lot of work, so xyz more cost" . i'd have declined doing those on the grounds i could have found better ones. communication was POOR. the results were good, and the process THIS mob used was EXACTLY the same as Brand new cars headlights (painted gloss 2 pack black i think then painted in super shiny chrome paint @SPArKy_Dave has posted videos up somewhere before of the process) the previous mob, @Mr Polson has a pair of, and they were done by a mob that FAKE chrome plated (aluminium?) PLASTICS for coffins, (all fancy chrome that can be burned) these i also had in My XF for over a year and were amazing, although the finish isn't as durable (it's likely what FORD used though in the XFs? i can't recall) if you scroll up on this page, there are 2 people doing XD and XE ones, these are metal and do a different process (chrome plated) these guys won't do the XF ones due to .... " aftermarket lights are good enough and still available" in My experience, if you fit the Ford GLASS to the chinese repro lights they work ok (half as good as reco'd originals) (twice as good as chinese glass ones) (4 times better than worn out orginals with no reflector left) i did all kinds of mixing and matching at the time, and if you have a RISK Attitude more than just swapping the glass (risky in itself... spray WD40 on the clips/glass and try SLIDE the clips forward rather than dig them off ...you'll see when you try just one even) removing the reflectors is by pulling them on the areas where they clip in(3 locations with a ball and socket) some of the repros had different size ball and socket and they can't be fitted to the FORD housing. well not unless the sockets can unscrew. the ford ones some were screwed, some riveted.. they are brittle and snap easy.. (RISK attitude tester) if you can manage to fit the ford sockets to the repro reflectors and clip them into the ford housing with ford glass.. This is a GOOD OPTION. .. not without many risks. the mob i used above were called DECORENGINEERING or ECOCHROME both links to the websites no longer work the ones prior were Zues products, and they said they are no longer doing headlights well before i tried decorengineering too fiddly not worth the effort

probably have to buy a whole seat set (ideally only left one and swap the foams also, less wear) there were some cars that had one square meter of seat trim behind the seat back(perhaps it was just the ones with the rear arm rest?). THESE SOLD FAST so i suggest you join a few facebook pages, put the word out you are looking even. nearly 30yrs ago i got that seat trim replaced on mine with NEW old stock material, i can't remember if Global Trim have it these days?

cable might be easier there. mates rambler rebel had cable from the steering box location (ford location at firewall) to the trans)

i've seen a couple of these a few years old and they were still mint. one on a falcon, one on my gemini. the old rag joint one my gemini had was all haggard and looked like it would fall apart just taking the coupling off the rack.. (have seen them completely rooted on gemini and falcon) but even though it looked stuffed, it was a really strong thing and extremely difficult to cut even so i could grind the rivets out.. (30+ years old) i'd be surprised if these type last 10yrs and are still safe, find out i guess. they definitely work.

i think that's the REASON they have such long bolts in these kits, if/when it falls to bits the bolts will at least still be in the steering column slots (the gemini one is the same, aftermarket poly type has super long bolts for this reason)

@Searley the power steering question was answered here thanks.!

might be a fleet colour? didn't come up in my google/search could try ring 13ford for a verification letter and it might say

nice to know i can still remember enough of it.

they'd be same for V8 basically basically put that black hose on the vac port with the brake booster, T piece would work, the later cars (XD -XE would have had the plastic one due to vacuum heater stuff, XC was cable) the 6cyl vac port if it doesn't crumble on removal would work, i would get a new one or a t piece if the one on it now is brass (plastic is easily broken)

where do the heater hoses come out of the fire wall? low down or high up? silver one is XD or XE position, (some are angled, some side by side) the green wire goes to the heater tap, i think if it's disconnected the heater tap is always flowing water, and only stops when the vacuum is on it (can't remember but pretty sure) that lever behind the glove box has a vacuum switch on it, that probably releases the heater tap as soon as you move it a bit (cold = heater tap off, anything else, heater tap open, i don't see how it can be variable but it might be?) the vacuum for the entire dash from the engine bay is black, they often pulled out of the connector in behind the glovebox, i've had to glue in a few. see if it's lost in there. as that will be needed for the face/feet/ heater .. everything. orange one? unless orange is an XG version of the black XF one? i can't remember, there was a white one that didn't seem to be needed. fairly sure there was a vacuum diagram somewhere on this forum. i won't have time to check any time soon. not sure what you mean by the clevo rear vacuum tree, it was on the rear for brake booster and some other vacuum(assume C10 trans modulator) front one would be for vac advance on dissy.. the other trees the later clevos had were mainly for the thermo quad carby.. aka don't open 4 barrels when cold and other similar things pollution related (heat riser flap on air cleaner intake like the XE six had)

they were prone to corrosion on the terminals inside, and cracked solder joints. so consider dismantling it or sending it off to someone if you can't figure it out. there may be some more replies with things to check, but if nothing lights up at all i haven't seen that issue before.

i don't recall having that issue, would suspect a fuse or plug not plugged into the dash correctly (2 plugs on them)

i don't think it would make much difference if any which way was in/out at the firewall, i'd just make the hose runs from the engine and choose the neatest path. put the heater tap in the correct direction(arrow on it) in the supply line before the firewall, and the return one goes straight to the water pump unless i'm mistaken. you'd need it for any rwc/V8 mechanical report anyway.

that's interesting, never seen that problem before the blinker LEDs often need a different "electronic" flasher can otherwise you get a fast flash rate never thought about them in the front of an XB (parker/indicator) but can see the benefit being brighter (if they worked) there's probably someone like sparkydave who'd be able to explain why they didn't work, but the BIN is an easy answer to many questions lol.

first place to look is the body earths, on XD, XE XF etc there's the battery earth to the engine block and then another earth that goes from the engine to the car body. if this is missing you'll have weak earths on everything. mate of mine has a weird issue now in an XG where if you turned the lights on the car would stall (engine cuts out for some reason) (the "fix" albeit temporary was to earth a wire in the headlight loom for some reason. doesn't make sense still but something's not right with it. ) i think on your car you may need to check your tail light earths, i assume there'll be one in behind the tail light housings. but it's likely something simple like that.

wow those seats are nice! is it worth finding someone to place that engine properly and make/modify mounts for it (setting pinion angle etc) and seeing if the extractors fit while doing so (modifying to suit if not) Dad had vibration issues due to engine placement in his V8 transit conversion due to making it fit better in the space but not taking into account pinion angle, and seeing you aren't using stock mounts now you should probably consider it worth checking (engine/gearbox in relation to diff pinion angle) good to see another update

what part of the brake hoses are you planning on keeping? the XH will be metric thread and the XF imperial on the brake line nuts . try to decide early and you can have the parts ready to go. there's an adapter available for the XF hard line to XG(i assume XH same?) flexi hose to T piece on the diff. i haven't used that, i had the brake lines on the diff remade or modified to have XF nuts put back on the ends that go into the t piece. .if you had brake flaring skill you could change the nut on the hard line in the tunnel even but i've just taken a hand full of bits into a brake joint and said make this fit that..

not sure if it's too late yet, but if you feel like doing a basic tutorial it may help others in the future? it's likely in the gregorys book though.

yep, push out the centre part of the plastic bit holding it to the window lifting rail (i use a phillips screw driver and whack the end of the handle with palm of hand and then look for the center part behind the reinforcing bar of the door.. 1 in 10 go missing in my experience) then the outer part of that clip you push from the other side while holding the glass in the opening or it will just drop into the door hole and scratch on the way down. tilt the glass on a 45 degree down in the front and it will just come out. reversal for refit but you push the center of the clip in from the door trim side with the HANDLE of the screw driver and it will give a THUNK as it clips in. (assuming you got the outer clip in the right spot in the glass hole. good opportunity to slide the baily channel up into the door frame better also. you'll need the window wound about half way down to access those clips.

basically the same but won't fit the 6cyl is about all i know about them., (has a higher value due to being rare)

usually if that track as rusted away you''l have water leaking on the floor due to rust in the wiper plenum as sparkydave mentioned above. it could be just bent, you can probably stick a torch/camera in the wiper vent and see if it's there or not. link below to upload photos

don't forget to do the welsh plug behind the flywheel if the box is coming out, you'll thank me later. (if it's rusty, the ones under the exhaust manifold will be due also most likely)

most likely 2.77 possibly 2.92 if the diff doesn't have it's tag on the back cover any more, you can see the ratio on the crown wheel diff gear stamped in. (involves dealing with smelly oil etc)

most people who fit a bigger carby to the iron head (1979 XD) would get the XC/XD redline manifold and fit a 350 holley (could adapt it to a weber if preferred) if it was an XD 1981 with Alloy head, the XE/XF manifold fits, but it's a bit of a muck around to get working on an XD still, (throttle cable ball is different size, no choke output on the alternator, something else i can't remember) if it was mine, i'd keep it stock and find a carby kit if required. they drink a bit of petrol but i'd suspect it's not a daily driver doing heaps of kms, the stromberg is pretty reliable.

stomberg single barrel,. if it looks like this https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/143667442469