deankxf

yep, as Thom said. The XF T5 cross member may even have the center hole already in it, i have seen them many times drilled for both. like this one (image from @fotz thread recently, on the left not circled)

what's in it now? single rail 4 speed? if so, is it unleaded or leaded (clutch cable on driver side is leaded) if it's unleaded single rail, the clutch cable is same as the XF T5 otherwise you'll need one. cross member or modify the original if you can't find one (actually aftermarket are making them) pic below of mine i modified.. gear stick and knob are different to the single rail also (sounds obvious, but i had to find one back in the day due to buying a gearbox only) T5 crossflow bell housing is available aftermarket also in Alloy, but only as a leaded clutch from memory or hydraulic which makes it tight for exhaust on the cable side with a CAT (I used a CRS one) or you can drill the single rail to suit (there's a thread here, but on your car you'd appreciate the correct parts used, so an XF T5 bell housing for a crossflow obviously)

ah i didn't see that electric solenoid, that's where the idle jet is then. the other is possibly for idling up the engine if it's about to stall (air con switched on at idle etc) i haven't looked at one for many years, but the first thing i'd do regardless is just take the diaphragm covers off and check them, split, stiff etc = issues. (there's another on the inside of the top cover under the thing with the spring on it which i believe is a low vacuum enrichment part, as in going up a hill in a higher gear with low revs) do it once do it right is great, @SPArKy_Dave has listed links to geniune diaphram kits which would no doubt last longer than the repro stuff available today.(at repco etc)

that's the fuel cut solenoid (electric on XFs later) well, i'm not sure how it works on XEs, but on XF it shuts the idle circuit when ignition is cut so it doesn't run on. usually when there's an issue with them (broken wire on XF) they'll start on more throttle but will never idle. (due to idle circuit blocked by the plunger) if you want to LOOK first, undo all the diaphram covers(can see the 3 main ones in the pic above, they have a tendency to dry out and crack, and one of mine was pouring fuel in rich as anything)

the last i heard about side exhausts, (20yrs ago at min) it just needed to be a certain distance from the door(30cm rings a bell) and be under the noise limit and have some heat shielding (those pictured could pass if you had a muffler before them) high utes handle pretty crap, so you need to decide how crap you can live with. i'd say ask your pink slip person and an exhaust mob

see the black part the T bar is bolted to, without that you'll have too much gearbox poking through the tunnel to deal with

i'll see if i can find a pic from @CHESTNUTXE thread for the hump, he's recently done the same job

yeah hump on the floor for the gearstick to clear. get an XB to XE one that screws on and it's simple all the wiring is there for a cluster swap. just add the oil sender in place of the switch on the motor

the auto console can fit a manual fairly easy, the manual hole is too wide i think for the T bar display panel to be fitted. You'll need the hump fitted to the floor, XE and prior just unscrew and were available new from GT shops etc (XA to XE would be same or close enough) or drill the spotwelds off a Tbar etc one from a donor car XF if you just want the cluster swapped (easy) just get the fairlane cluster and the oil sender from the fairlane engine and it just plugs in and works. if you want to fit the whole fairlane dash with the trip computer etc. well, it can fit, i don't know it if plugs up to the existing engine loom without any mods(possibly would just plug and play)

depending how noisy you like I'm old, i'd go with a factory spec muffler., but back in the day a baffled glass pack sounded nice, the straight through ones will be similar but louder. you can delete the center resonator (often cracks anyway) for almost no difference (if anything a slightly nicer sound)

personally i didn't rate the 2.5" exhaust on stock engines. mine went better with 2" even than the 2.25 one,(be different if jetting etc was being done on the carby on a dyno i suspect) unless you like noise, the 2.5" makes a lot more noise, (i still reckon they sound better with a sports muffler on the stock exhaust size ) that's on a stock engine that only makes power to 4000rpm at best though (due to cam/valve springs)

that's a win, it may be a blocked cat, or the guts of it blocking something further down the line if it fell out (one of My utes and a sedan did this, it came loose/turned sideways and was blocking the flow in the cat pipe.. i made a bolt fit tight in a piece of garden hose and smashed it up while still fitted to the car (both times) due to i don't like udoing rusty exhaust bolts where possible. could be a rats nest in the muffler if it's been parked for yonks also i guess

anything to do with testing for Me was swap in another one. (swap tronics) @SPArKy_Dave may have some info links,

yes, but if you fit it, unplug the ECU in the kick panel of the XF (this could also be the current issue also, they have been known to go bad even 20yrs ago) I had an XF ute, fitted the XD alloy head/XE dissy (leaded XF is same but with the later cap, has a specific rotor button for it, you'd need to order if keeping it) it worked for ages but at some point the ECU in the kick panel(wasn't needed) had an issue and caused ignition breakdown. i simply unplugged it and it was fine with the XD dissy again. to fit it, all you need to do is put the wires onto the coil (2 wires) and it will work (unplug the ECU in the left kick panel) the ECU is specific to the carby models, EST sticker shoud/will be on it. might pay to check that before you go further, and if you can locate another to try it could be worth a shot. (unleaded aka 1986 XF utes/vans upto 1992 should have one as they were all carby. otherwise only sedan/wagon/fairlane etc from 1986/1987 with a carby would have them (rare now)

I haven't got time tonight but should be able to give you some more things to check tomorrow. but off the top of My head, you should check your fuel cut solenoid on the carby is getting power/(or vacuum if that's it's style) cars this old with low kms often have stuffed hoses and there's a chance it's sucking air from the fuel line joins(one under the floor of passengers left foot area is a common issue) try running fuel from a jerry can/bottle instead of the fuel tank first up to rule out that side of things i may think of more overnight or @SPArKy_Dave may have a clue to look into the ignition lock caused @CHESTNUTXE some grief in the same way, i hadn't had many issues removing them in the past but they can be annoying (low kms = less worn to jiggle pick, but a locksmith could get it out easily if you removed it (sometimes easier to remove the steering column if you can't access the bolts easy.. *tamper proof you'll need to cut a slot in them or chisel them undone)

i can't remember, i have a feeling it fits into the mounting bolt as is (maybe the mount has a square at the end of the threads even to locate it) the EB cross member mounts have a square hole also, so i'd say ford must have been considering this mount option at some point

i haven't got any photos handy at the moment, but this thread has a lot of info in it if you have time to check it out

i've never seen one pulled apart like the 2 bolt one's do, they get a bit sloppy eventually (original ford ones are not solid rubber, they have some dampening in them) due to the one center bolt, they allow a lot of twist and therefore don't break i think. for $200 odd, the tuff mounts one is the 2 bolt type that would be strong

Yep that's the one Just google eb Falcon gearbox mount for a photo

See that hole in between the xf cross member holes, you can use the e series gearbox mount with this hole fine in XF. I think they are stronger than the 2 bolt one. Exhaust bracket was a very strong pain in the arms trying to work around , most went in the bin. Probably very good at stopping the Exhaust manifold from cracking but not used with extractors

this works often, especially if you can get access to clean the threads up with a wire brush then lube it but sometimes with these bolts is you can jam something in to stop is spinning and then TIGHTEN the bolt until it breaks the bolt.. then you have access with the guard removed to cut the rusted stuff out with a grinder. i have centerpunched and drilled the bolt head off also, it's tough going, but can be done if needed. (one accessed by opening the door and above the top hinge caused me this pain once)

that motorad looks like just a brand name? that part goes into the head where the hot water touches the spring part to let it open. so opposite to how you are holding it in the first pic like below (only pic i could find on google)

I'm leaning towards neither of them being factory. unleaded XF has an EST computer and map sensor, likely just something to minorly improve emissions at the time. they were often replaced with the leaded dizzy from XE or XF (special LEADED rotor button needed if keeping the XF cap/leads, otherwise use XE rotor and cap/leads) if you use an XE dizzy in the later XF, remove the ECU from the kick panel, one of My XFs had ignition breakdown with it still fitted (faulty) and when removed the problem was gone.

got a photo of them? the EFI had 2 relays there, one was an ECU relay, the other a fuel pump relay. i didn't think there was a factory starter relay? @SPArKy_Dave may confirm. but many of my cars had starter relays fitted over the years. i don't see why you'd have another relay for a carby manifold, unless it's some anti theft thing been added?

@Thom may have an idea?