ando76

Ok time to start a thread on THOR, my idea of the ultimate aspo crossflow. This is the engine that will be powering my new TD Cortina drag car venture. Here is a brief run down on THOR's specs; Triple 45mm webers (soon to be converted to E85) Tighe - Solid roller cam Heavily ported C2A head 86da block Modified EF crank Ross Forged 200 rod pistons Spool Forged 200 conrods Anyway I have had this formula in my head for a long time and I collected all the bits and pieces and now its time to assemble the monster that will become THOR.

So your going to rev your crossflow harder than this? That's 6200 plus. 5/16 bolt on roller rockers, no guide plates!!!! get the valve springs right and you don't need any of that fancy arse bullshit. That engine did 5 years of speedway before being flogged in the skid car for another 3. Never once did it pull a thread on a 5/16 bolt on.

If your really keen to pull front weight, check out Alfa Motorsport fibreglass. Enzy xd works there. Their panels are ace and good value, especially as most xe panels are rust and bog ridden messes.

Big H race engines - check them out. The dyno sheet is on there. It was more than likely touched in the runners, those dudes know their stuff, but the basic architecture of the manifold, plenum etc is still the same. And it made peak power way earlier than 7000. Efficient little fecker Thats my point. Unless you know what your doing and have access to a flow bench your better off not touching them anymore than the guide on the website.

Good stuff.

Then how come they consistently make good horsepower and torque in real world engine. Ones that have actually been put together and run. If you think I'm biased then have a look at Jason Murphy's sons car from Toowoomba. Search Murphys Speed shop. That car runs very fast numbers with little manifold porting, just a tidy up. I've used them on my own engines and customer engines and they work. Pure and simple. Regardless of what keyboard engine building gurus say and their theories. It shits me to tears when people rag on a product that they haven't even tested in the real world. Yes like they can be improved by those in the know, like any product that it made for the mainstream market, but the reality is when you compare them to what else is out there, they are miles ahead. Airspeed is king and peak airflow is only one part of the equation 400+ hp at the crank through an aussiespeed 4 barrel speaks for itself. Regardless of your or my opinion. It simply says it all. You don't make that power through an inferior product. And that engine was fitted to a corty and ran 11.4 on its first run. Enough said. I'm happy to post up dyno graphs of the engines I have built using the Aussiespeed product. I'm happy to put anyone in touch with my customers who have the Aussiespeed manifolds on their cars. If you want to hear it from them instead of me, I'm happy to facilitate that. I can back up my claims with solid real world performance and real people. That's why I will continue to use and support this great, wholly Australian Made product and why I will always bite when some has something bad to say about them. You have no idea of the research and development that has gone into that manifold originally and the continuing r&d. Yes I'm a part of that r&d. I make no bones about that. Look at the current generation manifold, drilled for east west from the factory is the obvious change but there are several other changes within that manifold that you won't notice. How did they come about. From R&D and the manufacturer listening to people who use his product. Try and get that from a CAIN or redline! Their still making the same manifold they were when these engines were new. Rant over.

Yes. You won't find anything of good quality that is direct fit into a crossflow. Well the chev exhaust valves will go in but on the intake, yes you have to turn them down. Welcome to the world of modifying a xflow. Nothing is a simple, bolt on like clevo or chev. You have to use your brain and skills and machine stuff to suit. That's why they are expensive to do. But when they are done right they are a ship load of fun and very rewarding.

Performance wholesale should have plenty.

Perhaps you should have a read of the Aussiespeed website before old mate 'port matches' the intake manifold. My skin crawls when I hear this on an i6 engine. Good way to f..k a great manifold.

C4 needs Windsor flex plate or std 6 cylinder (same flex plate). The shift linkages on the c4 are on the passenger side so no the bw linkages won't work, without modification. It's not that hard to make the, work with a bar running across to the passenger side and some linkages.

Cheers mate. Not getting much time on it but trying to change that.

Thing is to not get caught up in the whole brake pad sales talk. You really need to think about your application, how your going to use 'your' car. As an extreme example - no point putting a pad designed for circuit racing on a drag car. Generally circuit racing pads need to come up to temperature to work. The drag car needs a pad that's going to bite straight away and only do one big stop. They simply don't have the time to come up to temp. Sure at the end of the stop they will be worked, but they get plenty of time to cool off and be ready for the next run. Generally a slightly upgraded stock style pad is good for most people, unless you do multi lap circuit racing type events. Of course you need to consider the weight of the car and the whole braking package. It's very easy to get caught up in it all and go for exotic materials used on late model high performance cars, but really you'd need a pretty serious engine and car and application to warrant them.

I bought that exact flange for mine. Of course I haven't got anywhere near doing anything with it apart from size everything up. When you get the flange it doesn't take mush to work out how to make it happen. A couple of mandrel bends and squeeze some big diameter pipe in the vice and knock it around with a hammer and dolly and you will have something that functions just fine. I'd go that way rather than cutting and shutting off something else. It just works out easier I find. That one in the eBay add is a pretty good example of what to do in my opinion.

Windsor flexplate is the same and same convertor. Best c4's to use are the Windsor c4 as the 6 cylinder bell fits nice.

Cross drilled is definitely out, due to the issues highlighted above. Dimple and slotted is th go but make sure you look at your pad material and fluid as well. The rotors alone are just one piece.

Yes yes they do, but they have slightly better (advertised) resistance from memory

Couldn't help myself and gave it a quick grind/ sand. Pretty happy. Got a heap more room around the back of the head now. Can easily get to the top bell housing bolts and will have plenty of room for the supplementary oil return and balance piping. Once the rocker cover goes on you can't even see the blend.

Those GAZ shocks are cool. We have them in coil over form on the vtec mini. U.K. Sourced like yours. Love the escort mate.

All welded in. Decided to make the drivers side in-fill piece in 3 sections due to the complexity of the shapes. Came up not too bad. Remember this is not a Summernats top 60 car, I just want it to look reasonable and function well. Bit of a grind and sand, bit of filler here and there and she will come up a treat. Now that all that is done I can actually get back to building the sump and brackets for alt and vac pump. Yahoo.

For the wiring loom or the brackets. Brackets have their bases welded to the replacement panel. The little arms that grab the sides of the ecu and cdi have a bit of flex in them. Enough to dampen any vibrations to a point. Interestingly they come with solid feet so you can screw them to a kick panel etc. All I can think is that they have better vibration resistance than an msd etc.

Brackets made for ecu, cdi and '1 gauge' brain. Got them welded on and dummy fitted. Happy with the results. Mainly as they are hidden from direct view.

Yeah the body work will be fun. The 80's pumped rear guards are staying as they are part of the personality of the car. It will be mini tubbed as well so I can run the big tyre I want. Hope to have more regular updates as I have a bit more of a re-structure at work. Fun times ahead.

So when it's all said and done this is how it looks. Still a bit more to go, but it looks and functions way better now. I actually was focusing on the last couple of things I needed to do to complete the engine, like sump, alternator and vac pumps mounts etc etc. as usual I got distracted, but not really. It was all work that needed to be done at some time. I'm going to make the mounts for the ecu and cdi and weld them to the replacement firewall panel before I weld the panel in. Much easier to weld them on the bench than inside the car. "Why is it taking you so long to get this car going?" "Cause I'm old, slow and fussy and I only like doing things once!"

The problem child was this little 'step up' in the chassis rail/ inner guard junction So I hatched a plan to remove it and weld in a new piece with a nice angle to mate to the inner guard in that area. Bit of 3mm plate (original chassis was 2.5mm) bent to shape Then weld, grind and hey presto

So I cut it out and also modified the area behind the head so I can actually get to the top bell housing bolts. I made this piece as a start. It gave enough clearance for the throttle body and tps, but of course it wasn't that simple. No. 6 ram horn was too close for comfort and as I want to run an air box. This had to be fixed.