ando76

I am going through this process atm as a result of killing the c4 in my burnout ute. I have just ordered the TCI SUPER PRO rebuild kit thru summit racing ($250US). This kit is the same kit that they use in there fully assembled streetfighter trans which are good for 350-400hp and include clutches, bands, springs and pump bushes, seals and a shift kit. Great value IMHO. I already have a transgo shift kit in my valve body so I will not be using the shift kit option and I have re-bushed my pump already but for the money I could not go past this kit as it suits my application, i.e. up to 400hp. Yes four pinion planetry gears and billet servo's would be nice, look good and have that wank factor but if they don't use them in their kits that are tailored up to 400hp then why would I need them? I'm lucky in that my mechanic mate did his time on autos so I'm just up for beer money (and he can drink) for the assembly. After watching him do the valve body mods I can tell you that you have to know your shit to play with bloody autos and you need a very big and super clean work bench, and everything you do on them takes more time (labour) then you can imagine. In other words the parts are cheap but the labour will kill you. Good luck whichever way you go. Oh and I ordered one of their deep, finned aluminium pans and a B&M trans temp gauge while I was at it. I don't think my failure was heat related but it was cheap insurance. $130 for the pan and $50 for the gauge.

You can add more oil but this is can than cause the issue of the crank swimming in oil for most of the time. Easy fix is to no rev it hard. Pull the thing out and chuck a modified standard one in there and enlarge your drain holes in the block while you are at it.

ahh the 'fix it fairies' have been at work again - lucky you - they don't come out that often - especially in these parts....

Yes a high volume pump will empty that sump in a heart beat and leave all the oil in the top end. Until you have had a standard pump on a hydraulic test bench you just can't understand the quantity of oil that they are capable of pushing. Flat to the boards in top gear would be up there in the revs I imagine and your HV pump is more than capable of emptying the sump, add in a left hand bend to 'flat to the boards in top' and you will most certainly make a very big hole in the block. The problem with the standard pump (in the standard form) is that they are just to efficient and continually relieve internally, which stresses the oil. This is a real problem on fresh engines with good bearing tolerances as the pump is continually relieving. To understand the functioning of the oil pump you have to think what it was originally designed for. FORD built these motors knowing they were going to be used in taxis and other high milage applications. Basically they were built to last. This means they had to design a pump that would flow enough oil even when the bearings were getting real sad. This is why you can have an engine with bearings to the copper and still see 45-50psi in oil pressure. I just pulled an engine down that was exactly like this, down to the copper on the big ends and still showing 50psi at idle. In order to achieve this they made a pump that would work when the engine was fresh (continually relieving internally) and when the engine was worn (not so much oil passing over the relief). Then someone comes along and makes a high volume pump for one???? Why???Because other engines don't have such an efficient oil pump and they need a high volume pump to make them last. So the Ford X-Flow must need one too, so we will make one of those and flog off a few cause a high volume pump just has to be better!! Wrong in the x flow application I can assure you. If you want your block to stay as one nice piece of cast iron, don't rev the thing (in any gear) until you pull that high volume pump off and get a bigger sump. I know this as I have spent hours on a Hydraulics test bench mucking around with oil pumps. Why - because I'm a freak and I had an oil pressure issue once and I was determined to get on top of it so I spent way too much time analysing the oiling system of these motors. Rant over - Yes I am a little precious about oil pumps - 95% of engine failures are oil related in my experience.

Dizzy cap and rotor okay? Check dizzy shaft for play. Maybe it's allowing the rotor to hit the contacts???

That's a nice profile cam the 517. Sounds like just what your after and I love the lift, perfect for these engines. With a decent, exhaust, two barrel or four barrel manifold, good ignition and tune I reckon it would make a nice daily with a bit of a kick. I would mate this cam to a four barrel manifold with a 465 Holley. Best of both worlds there, economy when you want it and decent cfm when you stand on it. Going four barrel mani will also allow you the option to upgrade to a bigger carb (600DP etc) and solid when and if you get sick of the hydraulic - but I reckon you won't get sick of that combo. Just make sure you dial the cam in correctly - none of this dot to dot stuff. Be real interesting to see what this combo would do down the 1/4. Come on Mcfly get off the computer and go and build this so we can find out. That's a good thing about these forums - all these different combo's and we all get to see the results rather than having to build them all ourselves to find out.

If its unmarked then its an unmarked head. E1&E2 have those letters on a raised section between 1&2 inlet. They are a very open chamber head but as sly said, you have to measure them. I think from memory they are around 58cc without anything taken off them - but I have one here that is 41.5cc!!!! No shit 41.5cc. I has had that much shaved off it I shit you not. There isn't any measuring pads left on it. So moral of the story - CC your head when it comes off, work out what deck height you have. Punch some of those numbers into any of the online compression ratio calculators and you should get an answer. My tip is that you will need 8cc dish ACL race series pistons at 20thou deck height to get 10.1. but that is just an educated guess.

snap sly

I thought the D head was the same in the combustion chamber as the C2, well at least the D head I have here is the same as C2. That looks like an open chamber head - unmarked of E1 to me, but I've been wrong before today.

Oh the poor crown wheel and pinion, I can hear them screaming now. I'll probably be walking at the next burnout comp thanks to a major f..k by the machine shop on my fully prepped block. Arghhh!!! Aussie dollar is on the way back up so time to get the gearbox sorted in the mean time. Bigger and better nxt time.

Okay so as the title suggests the C4 in my burnout car has lost all forward gears. Was working perfectly but on the last skid I sensed a drop in power. Drove off the pad and into the pits and sat at idle for awhile. Went to load it onto the trailer and it went into reverse fine but put it into drive and nothing. Tried all other gears and no forward motion at all. Box is standard except for a TRANSGO shift kit (full race option on the springs). Have put in a new pump bush and convertor seal. Box was nice and clean inside and the oil is still nice and red as I have a big transcooler with fan in the tray of the ute. Someone has suggested one of the servos has let go and another suggested sprag clutch. Anyone got any ideas and my auto knowledge is limited? Thanks in anticipation.

Thanks team. Selector shaft is all good and everything lined up sweet and it still selects park and engages the parking pin so I'm thinking nothing has changed. It's a solid rod not cable, but I will triple check selector alignment. I'm thinking gregaust is on it. Looks like the box is coming out again. Might just get onto summit and order a full re-build kit and do it all this time. This box has been a nightmare from day one. I was supposed to be a 'full manual, Kevlar bands, yadda yadda yadda out of a Cortina drag car". Imagine my surprise when I put it in and it shifted like a normal auto. Never mind, if I pull it out and re-build it with all the good bits at least I will know it's all done this time. Thanks again all.

does your car have a big solid stick and idle at 1200rpm? let me tell you they shift hard with the transgo full race option when your idle is that high. Transgo don't do stages like B&M. What I can't work out is why this thing failed after the skid and after it had driven off the pad. The car was parked at idle and then failed on selecting drive not while being flogged. Thanks again - I'll keep researching.

pump is all good as I had it out to do the pump bush. fluid is fine also. goes into reverse still with a solid thud like the shift kit gives it. Just no fwd gears. if the pump was shot i'd have no reverse I would think. thanks for your suggestions tho.

Thanks mate - yeah I understand what you mean now. I have two 650 2 barrels and yes they are rare and odd looking. We are limited to a 350 Holley in Mod prods - having said that they are a 350 only in body. We modify them heavily with different base plates, metering blocks etc etc. Mine is made up of 350,500 and 650 bits and was done by the late great Geoff TRUSCOTT or G.T. as he is better known. He actually machined the hood out of the standard booster and on another G.T. carby I bought second hand recently he even extended them upwards to stop fuel 'pull over' at high rpm. The annular boosters look very similar to mine but without all the holes. Me thinks I will get a set and head off to the flow bench. I don't thing they will be that much of a restriction. thanks for the info and pictures. always trying to build a better mouse trap....

Have as look at my 'wagon leafs into ute thread' in the suspension section. I used EF wagon springs and flipped the lower leaf. Cost me $18 and about an hour and it brought the ute down nearly two inches. Unable to comment on ride quality but it would have to be better. as to load carrying well a wagon can take a fair bit of weight so I think the reduction would not be that huge, provided your not carrying around a tonne regularly - which I'm guessing your not if you want the tyres that close to the guards at static ride height. Good luck whichever way you go.

Gerg I'm real interested in this annular booster thing. I have a 650 2 barrel that has annular boosters from factory. I like the idea of not having a booster in the way in my speedway 350 Holley. Can you do this conversion to a 350 Holley, if so can you please post up picks of the annular boosters on your Holley. I'm thinking no boosters in the way will increase flow through the carb which would be awesome in my application. Always looking at ways to get around this bloody 350 Holley restriction rule.

Smart move. You will notice there is no thread titled 'my Holley won't idle properly and seems to lose tune all the time'. That's cause it doesn't f..ken happen.

That's not the pistons fault Rob. You would have done the same to a forged piston, or more likely transferred the force to another area, i.e. the rod. Yes I have a man crush on cast pistons. LOL. But back to the point of the thread, get a Holley on there Mcfly, you wont look back. Yes Mr Ford put a whole heap of R&D into carb selection, just like they did on that beautiful cast exhaust manifold!!! Everything factory is a compromise. They have to design things that will work as a taxi, caravan hauler, rep car that does a million miles, and even police cars. Then we come along and want them to be speedway, drag or fast road cars. I don't know one person that's put a Holley on their x-flow and said 'gee I wish I didn't do that'. Cheap, easy to find and tune and they work. Makes them an easy choice for me.

Follow the manufactures recommendations and you can't go wrong. I use a AEM widebands on the speedway car and the burnout car. I put them a fair way down stream as that was the recommendation for leaded fuels (burnout car is on avgas) and high rpm use. Speedway car is on Meth and I have killed one sensor in the two years I've had it on. Yes you will only be reading from one bank but that will be sufficient for the tuning you are after. There are kits available that have two sensors and are therefor more accurate but they are double the cost and really not worth it in your application. I would not be putting your sensor in the collector where both sides meet as I reckon you will have issues. Most factory stuff is close to the head so they must be onto something. So to sum up I'd be sticking with the manufactures recommendations, at least then you will have some chance at warranty should you have a sensor failure. Suggestion only

My 5 cents worth. Look for a cheap 350/500 Holley, they are around. I scored one from a swap meet for $10. It is currently serving time (on loan) on a F100. Best ten bucks I ever spent. I've never had a Weber that idled properly after sitting. Yes they are a tremendous carby when they are working, but sadly they are Italian after all. Holley's are piece of piss to tune and are still selling well today because of that. 465 4 barrels are awesome as Clevo 120Y has highlighted but they are thin on the ground. Good luck

Yeah this is how the tyres usually end up so, yeah that is as low as she can go.

Thanks Rob. So all done and dusted. Flipped bottom leaf wagon (4leafs) springs installed in place of utes old 6 leafs. Passenger side came down 45mm and drivers side 35mm. I'm real happy with the result for the $18 it cost me. Ute sits nice and level now. When time permits I'll chuck in some stock height front springs just to see how it looks with the bum down. I'm not keen to go any lower at the back. The ute is built for burnouts and usually comes in on rims after a burnout so any lower will be a real pain.

Ok so got a bit of spare time this arvo and pulled the old springs out. Unfortunately the front eye bolt had decided to weld (rust) itself to the metal sleeve of the bush meaning the trusty 5" grinder had to come out. I thought the sedan bolts I had at home would be sweet but they were a bit small so I have to run into town in the morning to rescue the bolts from the wagon. I did dummy bolt it all up and yes it all fits like a glove. The EF wagon u bolts are bigger than the XF and the plates on the shackles are a little thicker than XF so a bit of a strength win there. The oval front eye bush fits nicely into the XF recess as well, so basically it is a straight swap, just remember to keep the all the bolts from the EF donor if you are doing the swap in case your front eye bolt is screwed like mine. I have sent Slydog some before photos and a photo of the difference between the two u bolts. He will post them up later as I am a techno gumby. After shots will be up tomorrow PM as I have to retrieve the bolts and get it back down on it's wheels, after I do a few house chores to earn man minutes.

Will do Rob. Been busy doing stuff for Jason's race car, but should get sometime in the pm today.