ando76

Carefully grab them with one hand - throw them in the nearest bin. Get Felpro 302W Neo seal. Knock out rope seal retaining spike from cap, install Neo seal as per instructions inside Felpro packet - live happily ever after with an engine that doesn't leak and doesn't have parasitic drag loss from a crap rope seal. THE END

And why would you be worried about using them?

If your near Ipswich I'll pop by and do it on Saturday. Gotta do the fire up of a customer engine down there on Saturday.

When I shut down my race engine, like it is at the moment, I put heaps in. To the point that when you wind it over and it comes to tdc it comes out the plug hole. Of course you MUST put a notation on the engine that you have done this so that when it comes to firing it, you remove the plugs first and wind her over to get rid of all the excess oil. You might not want to go to that extent so just strike a happy medium

Diesel is good for unsticking engines. If it's just to keep everything lubed, bit of engine oil and turn her over.

Well if the dizzy sat down properly on the block, then I'd say it was the correct length. HV oil pump or std?

Dizzy/oil pump drives are all the same hex size but there is variance in length

Sorry water pump pulley I meant.

Clevo water pump offset is incorrect, so it will be early non crossflow. Looking at the dizzy gear wear and the wear on the oil pump drive I'd be saying high volume oil pump

It is a crack. Very common to have them crack there. It's not an issue tho and will work fine. If it is an unmachined c2 it should cc at 42cc, but could be less if it's had a hair cut. No evidence of anyone laying the chamber walls back so I'd say it will be 42cc or less.

Ask old mate. Every engine builder has their own thoughts on this.

Well I guess the answer to that is, what is your current piston to valve clearance? Minus what you intend to cut off the head and is that going to cause piston to valve issues.

You may want to factor in your piston to valve clearance. Personally I wouldn't hack that much off a crossy head.

Yep xpt your on it. With the ute you could place the turbo further upstream than a sedan. It is true that the length of the charge pipe would not be as efficient as an intercooler but those that have the rear mount set up report good intake air temps. Lag I think could be managed as you have suggested and I think with the already good torque of the 250 you could live with any that was experienced. It's not like a 2litre rear mount.

Why doesn't anyone want to build a rear mount turbo flow? It would be so different from all the sheep out there. It would make good power and torque for fek all and if you had a ute it would make it so easy. Oil reservoir in the space beside the tank in the tray. Diff pump pushing the oil around the turbo. Modern TBI Holley style injection on a four barrel manifold. It would be reliable, relatively cheap, easy to tune and a real sleeper. I actually spoke with bloke from Dalby about this idea this arvo. Cause he was talking supercharger, but wanted sleeper. Those two things don't go together. But rear mount turbo, no intercooler needed. TBI on a four barrel would be well below the bonnet and would keep,the stealth look. Yeah barra turbo would be easier and potentially cheaper, but to be honest it's been done to death in my opinion. Why be another sheep in the flock.....

Agree. You really have to want to do a crossflow these days. The truth is they are an expensive engine to do when compared to any modern stuff. It's the price you pay to be different from the sheep. If your willing to pay the price and build a good one, you won't be disappointed. There is something very special about kicking modern cars arses in an old xd, cart spring and crossflow powered race car. For that feeling alone I'm happy to keep playing with them.

The gain with a charger will be in low and mid range torque. Of course if you turn it harder the hp gain will be higher. The kit is expensive yes and if your handy you could make something cheaper, but if you charged yourself an hourly rate you'd be very close to the price of the kit. If you have the coin, want to be different and love the sound of a traditional blower I reckon go for it. I was going with the m90 blower on my shop ute but I've been that flat with work I haven't even looked at it for 2 years now. Lol.

That small plug is definitely the lifter gallery plug. I wouldn't bother replacing it for what your doing. If you do go to the trouble ensure you peen over the block like the photo grimmy put up. Those suckers are in the oil pressure gallery and you don't want them falling out. On race motors I tap them and loctite in a grub screw.

Oh it's a pain on most cars. Doing it with new hinges (no slop) is a must. Then you get it all right and fit new door rubbers and it all goes to the shit again. Patience is the key and if you have already painted your panels you will have to live with the non Lexus ball bearing gap thing. XL-XP are shocking at that plenum/ guard junction. I feel your pain.

I'd say more like 42 or less.

Let me know when your close to buying. Pat @ Competition Systems has become a very good friend. If your keen let me know

Oh yes Q. You have that right. Life would be a lot easier with them. Oh wait a minute. I have them. Lol. Most of my customers still love carbs and it's really hard to get them to commit to efi on these things. I do however have a bloke keen on fitting the heritage series Jenvey efi throttle bodies to his 250 2v.

Yeah. Have seen them and the theory on them is very good. It definitely atomises the pump squirt better than the original Holley design. The ask is bloody steep tho. Especially for something that helps in such a small part of the carbs operation and something that could be tuned out with correct pump cam, accelerator pump nozzle size and pump cc. ....

Yep. And they are part of the solution we have come up with, but they still pull over. It's not as bad, but it still happens as the route cause is still there, no matter what part you fit to the carb. BLP carb in America sell a whole lot of stuff aimed at dealing with it. Yes they help, but they don't eliminate it. You don't want to know how much it cost to learn that fact.

The amount of airspeed past the Venturi does have an effect on when it occurs. On Daves 2 barrel crossy, it was at 3500. They just went complete open circuit and poured the fuel in. Being a restrictor class engine it's forced to run the visually standard manifold and 350 Holley. It runs one of Cams heads so the airspeed is just ridiculous off the bottom. Which obviously made it ten times worse.