ando76

Keen eyes will observe the zincaneal panel on the firewall. Well it had to go in for a reason. Those that have fitted big webers or itbs to corty know how close the last throttle body goes to hitting the standard firewall at the heater matrix area. My corty had been belted with a hammer to make the 45mm webers fit, so the 48mm Jenveys had no chance. Plus like most corty's, mine is rusty. Some would say too rusty - but I don't have a problem with rust and enjoy cutting it out and welding new steel in. I could have started with a better body, but that would have just taken a good road car off the road. This one was already a drag car so it makes sense to me to fix it and leave the good ones for the restorers. Anyway enough words. Here is what I started with.

Time for an update. FUEL RAIL PORN!

personally I think when you are getting above 10psi I reckon it's time. You have to factor in the "some is good - now I want more factor" You know how it goes. That 10 feels nice - lets go 14, 18 boom. Of course proper tune comes into it here and that's probably where a lot of home grown turbo set ups fall over. Money is spent on all the bits, if it's auto - then a nice full manual box and then right at the end there is no money left for the thing that's actually going to make or break the set up. A proper dyno tune. Road tunes and auto tune are fine for base maps but when your up the business end (where stuff usually goes to s..t) you just can't beat a Dyno. Of course that's only my personal opinion. Like everything - and particularly when you talk about boost, everyone has their own ideas. Factor in fuel type as well in that level. Alcohol based fuels bring in a whole different set of rules. Cooler inlet temps help in all applications so it's probably a personal preference thing. Underbonnet clearances and even the intake manifold position and design also need to be considered. I'll say this tho - if your lumping for a 6boost manifold, you'd be looking at the upper end of performance so intercooler would be mandatory

+1 for 6 boost if you are after all out performance. They can't be beat. If budget is an issue, just scan FB swap and sell sites as they do come up often. I got my snort Performance manifold with a Chinese turbo for $400 off gumtree. Off loaded the turbo for $200 so it ended up being very cheap. Having said that you could make something that worked well enough for a low boost low budget build for next to nothing if you are handy with a mig. Intercooling is a good thing but really only necessary when you start pushing the boost, or you live in far North Queensland where it's stupid hot most of the time. But the gear is cheap,enough so why wouldn't you do it.

It's not finished yet so technically it's still a not going aspo pain in my side. Mark at aussiespeed has all but finished the kits. The blower drives etc etc. using the m90 is going to take some finesse on my part as I want to keep it under the bonnet. Yeah I think it will be a fraction thirsty, it hard to tell.

Totally agree with xpt. Turbo is way easier, cheaper and will produce more hp and torque than a blower. I've set my shop,ute up for the m90 blower kit that aussiespeed will be doing. Why. 2 reasons. First is purely because it is different. Secondly because I want to use the ute to tow and the grunt off the line will be important. Is it the easiest and cheapest way. No. But I have all the gear for a turbo crossy so why not a blown one. My problem as always is time. Google 'little italy' for a tough blown crossy.

Length is the issue on the intake. Clevo valve and cut the face down, the length is correct. FERREA are awesome but not cheap. Nason or precision should stock a steel single lock valve. Chev exhaust valve is the go.

If your a follower of keyboard warriors and believe the est has phasing issues then get both. Pull the wiring clip and pins off the est dizzy and the black bit that bolts to the side. Remove the module and same black piece on the TFI dizzy. Add the est components onto the TFI dizzy and your done. Or confused. Basically your just making a more reliable connection to the TFI's Hall effect sensor and deleting the module.

Est is by far the easiest to wire in. TFI require pin out of the module or blade terminals inserted where Hall effect converts to module. If you get an est dizzy off a late model xf just cut the three wires down stream of the connector on the side. Wiring off those 3 wires is as follows. Black/brown - to earth. Yellow/green - white on MSD (trigger) Brown - red msd (12v switched power, to power the Hall effect) Follow that, not the way the MSD literature says and you will have no issues. It's how all my stuff runs and all my customer stuff. Oh and what gerg says is spot on. Close enough to efi mapping with a dirty old carb. So cool.

Can't see why u would go to the trouble to fit a points dizzy, when u could bung in an est or TFI dizzy and never ever have an issue. The ex magnetic has issues when worn, which they nearly always are and particularly if you give it a rev. TFI or est. I use the est as it doesn't have the module which can cause issues, deleting it fixes it but the est is straight drop in. Don't worry about all the crap out there about phasing being out.

An autronic smc ecu and 6 coils came up on Facebook drag parts the other day. Just saying.think it was $650 with the coils. Bargain

Try Cols' fibreglass on the sunny coast. He does a lot of speedway stuff. He did my one piece xf front. Really good quality. I'm sure he could make you a set. Might just have to make the internal pieces. He is a top bloke as well.

Good plan. I'll PM you.

Not that much really. Someone had got in there with the burr and removed some material but it was kinda all over the place. Cam had to re-do it all, fix x section, tidy up around the valve guides, throat area correction etc etc. it went on and on. I'm expecting decent flow out of them now. Will probably flow similar to my clevo units. You can sorta see from those plugs how just a good seat cut (Cam's is pretty special, I.e. More than 3 cuts), bowl/throat correction and some love in the short turn really picks these old girls up. The good seat cut really works right thru the lift range. Yes it's most effective when the valve first cracks and up to mid lift. Here it accelerates the air and gets the air speed really happening. Of course that then carries thru to the mid to high lift areas. So you can see how in reality it works the whole way thru the range. You won't get as higher airspeed and swirl in the mid to high, without first creating it in the low. It's a flow on effect if you like. It's also something that you may not necessarily see on the bench, in fact there may even be some slowing in the high lift 'on the bench'. Put them on the engine and they make more power than the cfm suggests and most times more than heads with big high lift cfm flow. Well that's my experience. Send them up mate, you know you want to. Don't need to come to me, just Cam in Brissy.

Thanks for posting gerg. Very informative. I've got a set of 2v closed chambers arriving from Cam tomorrow. I did some before testing as they had been touched by someone. They only went about 10cfm better than standard. Hoping for much larger gains after Cam's work as they are going on a meth skid car.

I'll just add one last thing to this discussion and it kinda important and the reason why Allan and I came up with the system we did. Fuel Quality Not the octane rating or brand. The quality of fuel delivered to the carb. Any internal bypass fuel pump will aerate the fuel and heat it. Both are not a good thing, even in a standard application. Ever heard a vane pump groan and be crazy noisy at idle? That's the fuel going thru the internal bypass and the poor old pump stuggling to deal with it, heating and aerating it. So now you see why we made it that way and why I bash on about it. All the top line external pumps run them. They do it for a reason.

I'll put it this way. If you run out of supply you will kill your engine. It's better to have a fraction more than be on the edge of the cliff just waiting for trouble. The system I detailed is what I use on my customer stuff. Speedway or road. It works and I know it's good for at least 283 RWHP. See Ryan engine for reference. Just remember the rating of all the pumps is perfect world scenario and a lot are related at gph FREE FLOW, not regulated. Don't get me wrong those little clacker pumps are a bloody good thing but if you want to build a fuel system that is tried and proven in the HP range your talking about then I don't think you can go past the system I detailed. But at the end of the day it's your choice. I can't wholly take the credit for my system. As I have said numerous times before, my best friend is a hydraulic expert and a rev head. We came up with it together. We tried it 13 years ago on our own burnout beasts. Then I've used it on multiple customer cars. I know it works 100%. I'm sure others have their own favourites and that's cool.

I can get you a part number and I'll pm you a price. Just won't be till Monday night as I'm currently sitting at LAX waiting for a flight back to OZ.

Seems your on it to me. I'd use a proflow fuel pump over a Holley blue. They are both vane style pumps but the proflow u it has a Bakelite insert so the vanes don't run against the cast body like they do on a Holley. They do a pump and reg set up for $120 and I've used them for a bit and they are awesome. I like to use a hydraulic check valve at the pump, rather than those return regs. Less fuel line required so you save $$. If you have a look thru wagoon's build you will see his set up and what he did with the return. If you go with proper anodised barb fittings you don't need hose clamps. They are proper push ons and they will not come off. Try it. You have to cut the hose to get them off.

UPC kit equals no roadworthy, engineering pass. Well if it's anything like the cortina kit with machined calipers. I'd be very wary of them on a street car. Go with wilwood. Least you can get it engineered. Stock stuff works good with correct pads and nice rotors. Even stainless lines picks them up.

Whe I spoke to mal wood some years ago about the t5's as opposed to single rail behind a healthy x flow he said stick with th single rail. It will eat t5's if pushed. I would think that first gear ratio will be fine.

Anthony at 'slingshot automotive' in Gordonvale is the local tech inspector. He is a good bloke and can help out on local info. Although I'd be speaking with Rob's hook ups as they will be all over it.

Thing is, for me anyway, if your going to make the noise - you gotta have the motor to back it up. That means giving it a rev which with straight cut gears means the cam bolt will fall out.

Just checked. 1"3/4. 5 required.

Go to precision internationals website. They have a great listing for x flow which includes x flow. I have 3 sets on my bench at work but I'm not 100% on the size. 2"1/4 comes to mind. Just check their website to be sure tho.