78xcgxl

Gt ford performance sell aftermarket speakers that fit into the original holes, not exactly the same as an original but at least it will look right and no butchery required to fit. http://www.falcongt.com.au/shop/shopexd.asp?id=445&bc=no

I forgot to take pics when i changed the stub axles on my XC to XF ones but from memory the height where the top and lower ball joint nuts sit is 10mm taller one later model stub axles.

Yes the brakes will bolt up, by the stub axles being slightly taller they improve camber curve but as a result the car will sit slightly higher. The later stub axles also have a cleaner casting, making them stronger, a shorter and higher steering arm that will affect the steering geometry with a reduced ackerman. In short they are better and ford probability designed them to mainly suit radial tyres better but in saying that i doubt you will notice a difference. Just make sure that stub axels are the same on both sides, you can't have an early model and a late model stub axles on each side.

Late XD onwards stub axles are different compared to XA- early XD. The later stub axles are slightly taller, have a different steering geometry and run a larger tapered outer tie rod.

You can buy looms for barras that make wiring piss easy, sure at $700 they are a bit pricey but just having to connect a few wires of ign, fans and fuel pump it is worth not going through the stress. Took me ages to wire up the AU engine in my XC and when i'm off my Ps and install a turbo barra I'm simply going to just buy a plug and play loom. EFI is soo much better than a carby setup.

Hmm that is true but i do need to replace one outer tie rod so might as well change both and upgrade to XF spec ones. Since XD-XF cross members are the same as XA-XC and use the same power steering boxes the stub axles should work fine in the XC. That way it will also be easier as i can just swap the whole brake and hub assembly and not get covered in grease. I'm also going to change the upper control arms over as well, put a 3mm spacer behind the front bolt to gain more caster and fit roller bearing spring saddles. The brakes are massive 330mm discs with 2 twin piston holden VT calipers, should make for some awesome stopping power.

Hi all, I'm going to fit larger brakes to my XC. I'm transferring the bigger brakes from my GXL to my other XC. Now when i installed the brakes i was told to install XF stub axles as they have a cleaner casting than XC ones. After closer examination of the XF stub axles compared to the XC ones i realised that they were slight taller as well. Now from what i have read this is a good thing as it improves the camber curve much like the Shelby drop but not to that extent. I also read that XF stub axles have a different shorter and higher steering arm that will affect the steering geometry and a reduced ackerman. However my biggest concern is that this may lead to bump steer and currently the car has none. Another difference is the outer tie roads as well but when i installed the stub axles to my gxl the XC tie rods seemed to fit fine? Now in all Fords wisdom i would assume that the XF stub axles should make an improvement to my XC but will this be the case? So what do you guys think, should i play it safe and stick to the XC stub axles or chuck the XF ones on?

I run have used both products and i prefer resomat and it is also cheaper which is a bonus. On my daily driver XC, i have resomat on all the floor pan and it has made a big different, i'm also running under felt which is a must as well. The standard size box will just not make covering the whole floor pan in a X series falcon but in a ute it should be plenty. When i change the headlining i will also put so resomat on the roof as well as well as sticking the factory fiberglass insulation as well.

Well hi guys just an update, I wired up the wires for the neutral safety switch in the au loom by bridging them over and no luck on that. I took it for a drive around the block and still the same issue, what was even more strange is that when i parked the car back inside it refused to go past 2500 rpm in neutral as well. While the car was running i unplugged the coolant sensor to see if would make any difference, and all it did was make the engine idle higher but when reved it still refused to go past 2500. I then switch off the car, plugged the sensor back engine and started the car. This time round the car was able to now rev past 2500 and hit the limiter, I did 3 pulls and the car was able to all 3 times rev past the 2500 and hit the limiter three times in neutral. Not sure what i should do next, i'm thinking of swapping out the crank and cam sensors?

Hi all, I have been facing this problem with the AU engine in my XC falcon. At first and before having a working tacho i though i was simply hitting the rev limiter but as soon as i got the tacho working and letting my mate take the car for a test drive the problem was discovered. When driving the car it will not rev past 2500 rpm and will start cutting in and out, shaking and surges. The car drives great up and until that point. However when the car is stationary in neutral it will happily rev past 2500 rpm until it hits its rev limiter at 5800 rpm and also when the car is cold and just started it will rev past 2500 rpm but if you try a second time, it will revert to the same issue of not wanting to rev past 2500 rpm. Yeah i know you must be thinking fuck that is weird haha. It has got me stumped and many others as well, i have tried 2 different coil packs, O2 sensors on the exhaust and have cleaned the throttle body, i have also replaced the fuel rail and injectors with another set with no success. I have also swapped the ECU with another ECU but however was from the series 3 AU (i'm running a series 1 AU ecu and electrics) so the engine did not idle properly but i still took it for a test drive and it was still refusing to rev past 2500 rpm. It is very frustrating as i am not able to use 3/4's of the engine's power however on the positive side i am gaining good fuel economy with the rev restriction haha Possible reason why i think this is happening 1. -poor fuel pressure in the fuel rail, i have replace the fuel rail and along with that with the fuel pressure reg and i doubt the bosch 044 pump would be struggling to supply good fuel pressure to a stock AU engine. Fuel filter is also brand new. So possibly the factory strainer at the end of the fuel sender pick up causing a restriction? 2. Something wrong with EFI setup, could a faulty knock sensor, MAF sensor, TPS, crank and cam sensor etc cause a problem like this? 3. Bad spark As stated above i have already tried 2 different coil packs with no sucees, the spark plugs and brand new and i gaped each one to 1mm as per AU workshop information. Leads seem to be fine and the fact the engine revs past 2500 in neutral with no issues so that backs up my reasoning Any help would be appreciated and this is the last resort before i get my cousin to work out the issue for me.

Problem occurs with the tacho connected or disconnected, resistor wire was deleted but keep in mine however the car is on coil packs so tacho signal comes from the ecu also the old coil wire is now simply an ING source.

I'll change them as i do have spares of each and see if it makes a difference. Interesting you say that as the Knock sensor is from a sereis 2 AU and wouldnt that cause a problem with a sereis 1 ecu ? I'll just change it and even the TPS sensor see if that makes a difference. I would say it is mainly dependent on load but it tends to vary as at one point it was still cutting out even revving in neutral. If you feather it slowly it will still refuse to go past that point only the cut off is less violent. I'm not sure how the neutral switch can cause this issue as it is just a safety feature that stops one starting the car in gear, if i was to wire it up it would be through the XC loom. Hmm seems like the Auto ecu is reason for these troubles.

I haven't pulled out the chip with the engine running as wouldn't smart lock then come on and turn the engine off. Hmm interesting so your saying that because the ecu was an auto that is converted to a manual via the chip it is still depend on the speed sensor. So do think that if i just use a manual series 1 ecu with the chip just to remove the smart lock it should ok then? No regrets on the conversion, still the best thing i have done to the car and the sheer smoothness and fuel consumption is sensational! I know the v8 tacho won't read 100% right but whether the car cuts in and out at 2500 or 3000 doesn't really matter, the problem is still occurring.

Nope neutral switch is not hooked up, ecu is a auto one that has been converted over to manual one via the J3 chip. Tacho is actually a V8 tacho as i fitted a 6cyl one but the gauge was stuffed so i changed it to a working v8 one. However the tacho reads quite accurate and shows engine is idling at 700rpm. Just running the 044 pump on its own, don't know if it requires one but seems to flow back plenty of fuel down the return line while idling. I have checked it and cleaned it, also did the same from scratch with the series 3 ECU. Unless the actual chip it's self is faulty. No need to apologize any ideas are good at this point, cheers. Yep i am running one, i checked when installing it and it was fine. If the cat is blocked wouldn't it stop the engine from reving in neutral as well?

hmm how can one till if the engine is in Limp mode with a manual trans? i though limp mode only occurred on engines with an auto and meant the tranny was stuck in 3rd. I've also got the J3 clip to remove limp mode all together.

Same problem in my car clutch sits slightly higher than brake pedal and took me a while to get use to it, if i adjust it any lower it will grab to early and almost launch every take off haha. I hate cable clutches they are shit IMO, the hydraulic setup i previously had with the crossflow was awesome.

That could work actually, may give it a go. The shifter is center in terms of driver to passenger but sits too far back. When the it is in neutral it looks as if it is in 4th gear and when the shifter is in 3rd it looks as if it is in neutral ( if that makes any sense, if i remember, i'll take some pics of it tomorrow). Not that this effects the drive-ability i just don't like the look of it.

Hi all, I'm running a EF T5 with the standard EF T5 gear shifter behind an AU engine in my XC and the problem is the shifter does not sit perfectly centered in the console in the neutral position because of the curve in the EF shiftier. Now since XCs and XFs both run single rails with the same shifter i was thinking that a XF T5 shifter will fix the problem. So does anyone have a picture of a XF T5 shifter or able to shed any light on this matter?

Alright thanks for the replies, turned out that when i went to cut the portion of the loom that goes to the Auto trans (running a T5 box so not required)off the main engine loom i cut the wires for the injectors power supply. Took me fucken almost 5 hours to work it out, tried everything before that. Anyways I joint all the wires up, soldered and heat shrink, and the engine fired up like a champ, running awesome as well. I can finally sleep tonight and hopefully the car will next week finally hit the road. Can’t wait!

Hi all, With the 4.0L conversion into my XC falcon i have run into some dramas, i cannot get power to the injectors and they are not pulsing. the car has got good strong spark at the plugs and all are firing well (car starts nd revs if fuel is added through the intake) the injectors are not opening , fuel pump comes on and fuel is at the rail. This has honestly been doing my head i have tried a different cam position sensor but still no luck. Engine was running fine when fitted into the test dummy car (another xc). So can anyone please shed some light on this. I'm thinking it has something to do with the EEC relay not wired up correctly, doesn't anyone know where the power source supply for injectors is located on the AU loom or diagram on relay setup?

hmm many thanks for the pictures, looks like i will run into the same problems as with the EL shifter, ideally i would need one that is straight but a XF shiftier does look like it would make an improvement, if i can source a cheap one, i'll test it out. I was thinking that when a i install a short shifter it will make it less noticeable.

Oh how cute, here comes a smart ass, honestly grow up mate..... was merely sharing my findings but hey i guess they must of made an typo in all the XF and XG ford workshop manuals and Gav must be right, who knows. No need to be a wanker about it.

Cough all you like, i thought the same but i recently changed the box in my XC to a XG one as i'm doing a 4.0l conversion. I calculated the lock to lock ratio of the XC box prior to installing the XG box and the difference in lock to lock ratio was noticeable.

XA-XE boxes are the same and have a 2.6 turns lock to lock ratio. XF and XG boxes have a slightly quicker turn lock to lock ratio at 2.4 turns. XG boxes are the only boxes to have factory fitted roller-bearing top but runs two metric hard lines and not a crappy hose and clap on the return line like earlier models (far better and far less prone to leaks). XG boxes are the best and XF boxes can easily be converted to XG specs by fitting a roller bearing top but you will retain the standard imperial fitting and hose can clap. The steering ratio of these boxes are sensational and much better than later model e series rack and pinion with ratios at over 3 turns lock to lock. Even a RRS rack for a X series falcon is at 3 turns lock to lock so more of a downgrade if anything. If setup right these P/S boxes are better than a rack and pinion kits.

I find strange that the factory 3 core radiator is struggling to keep the car cool especially with EL fans on it. Unless your car is pulling insane numbers, i doubt that the radiator (unless is blocked or stuffed) and fan setup is the problem, the problem lies else where. A mate of mine is running a standard 3 core radiator with a clutch fan on his 550 hp 393 clevo in his coupe with no issues whats so ever. Another bloke i know is running el fans with a just 2 core radiator in his Xb with a 450 hp clevo again with no issues even on 38 degree days stuck in traffic. My advice is have a better inspection of the cooling system before you spend big $$$ on a radiator you don't need. Even a simple thermostat change to a different temp one can make a massive difference.