SPArKy_Dave

Mainly US and EU spec's I believe, but some may apply to Australian Vehicles? https://www.oilspecifications.org/ford.php?fbclid=IwAR2oDSFk-zD91i47yM0ygo7nm1xE22BZU9t7l63wBeXTHVlqr0Zoc5Oi3hk

XH utes got given a domed roof, to increase vehicle head-room inside the cab. I believe there is a difference.

Just a quick bump to THIS thread... For anyone wanting the Crossflow 1-3/4 welsh plugs - Premier Engine Components (Nasons), makes a full (Australian Made) brass welsh plug kit with x5 1-3/4 plus x2 2-1/16 and x1 tiny 7/16 plug - part no. WPEK971 OR they also have the 1-3/4 cup welsh plugs by the bag of x10 - part no. BC1034 (brass), PMSC1034 (steel), SSC1034 (stainless steel) https://premiermachinery.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2020/06/premier-welch-plugs.pdf Precision Engine Parts sells brass welsh plugs individually, but not sure on the brand. Part numbers as follows - 7/16 - CP0010 1-1/2 - CP0250 1-3/4 - CP0320 2-1/16 - CP0450 https://precisionintl.com/v/ford-australia-falcon-xf-4-1-1986-1993-petrol-ute/c/100000-standard/106000-cooling-fuel-oil-systems/106169-core-plugs Merry Christmas.

You begin the spark early - BTDC (before top dead center). How early is based on fuel type (petrol/LPG flame propagation time) engine rpm, combustion chamber and piston design. So we light the fuse early, the flame spreads for a while, and by the time peak cylinder pressure occurs, your crank is around 12 ATDC (after top dead center). If peak pressure occurred any earlier than that, it would be like a sledgehammer driving the rod into the crank straight down. By peaking after TDC, the rod acts like a lever instead of a railroad spike.

From memory, those E-series under-bonnet relays are used even on B-series and FG's etc. Good work, isolating the problem. Easy fixes are always the best!

Could always be dodgy relay contacts? See if you can track down, where the noise is coming from. Yes it's Ford specific, and not available aftermarket, that I've ever seen.

It's an auto-reset circuit breaker - usually a 30A rating. Uncommon, but they CAN get corrosion internally, which trips the circuit when it shouldn't.

Here's some more JEEP info for you - the 80's/90's glovebox locks, are the same as XD-XH, except colour-coded to the Jeep interiors.

This list may be helpful for some, to achieve an accurate Speedometer, vs chosen diff ratio and wheel/tyre size. Diff ---- Trans -- Rim -- Drive Gear --- Teeth -- Color --- Driven Gear -- Teeth -- Color 3.23 -- 4 Auto --- All -- XA-17285-C --- 8LH -- Yellow -- XE-17271-D -- 21 LH -- Light Green 3.23 -- Manual -- All -- XAP-17285-A -- 8LH -- Yellow -- XE-17271-D -- 21 LH -- Light Green 3.08 -- 4 Auto --- All -- XA-17285-C --- 8LH -- Yellow -- XE-17271-C -- 20 LH -- Brown 3.27 -- Manual -- All -- XAP-17285-A -- 8LH -- Yellow -- XE-17271-D -- 21 LH -- Light Green 3.27 -- 4 Auto --- All -- XA-17285-C --- 8LH -- Yellow -- XE-17271-D -- 21 LH -- Light Green 3.45 -- Manual -- 15" - XAP-17285-A -- 8LH -- Yellow -- XE-17271-E -- 22 LH -- Grey 3.45 -- 4 Auto --- 15" - XA-17285-C --- 8LH -- Yellow -- XE-17271-E -- 22 LH -- Grey 3.45 -- Manual -- 16" - XAP-17285-A -- 8LH -- Yellow -- XE-17271-F -- 23 LH -- Black 3.45 -- 4 Auto --- 16" - XA-17285-C --- 8LH -- Yellow -- XE-17271-F -- 23 LH -- Black 2.77 - Auto/Man - All ------------------------ 8LH - Yellow ----- XE-17271A - 19LH --- Purple 2.92 - Auto/Man - All ------------------------ 8LH - Yellow ----- XE-17271B - 19LH --- Pink http://www.fordmods.com/documents.php?d=30 Purple 19 XE17271A Pink 19 XE17271B Brown 20 XE17271C Light Green 21 XE17271D Grey 22 XE17271E Black 23 XE17271F

Re-ordered for clarity - SPOT BEAM comparison

Re-ordered for Clarity - HIGH BEAM comparison

Re-ordered for clarity - LOW BEAM comparison

The aftermarket ones look like they're not stamped correctly -

In my experience, the aftermarket spring coils are often cut a bit short - ie, they don't leave a small straight section of coil, to match up to the saddle tab - as the factory springs do. Some coil spring brands, are worse than others. There's also a difference, between the Australian OEM style spring saddle tabs, (separate spot-welded tab) and the USA Mustang style saddle tabs (integral with saddle tab) 99% of the aftermarket Falcon spring saddles, are the Mustang type - as per yours.

The spring coil, doesn't have the correct end cut, for Falcon spring saddles - see how it's missed the saddle stop tab? That is a problem.

Fun fact - XD headlights were made by Bosch aftermarket lenses made by SAP XE headlights were made by Hella aftermarket lights AND lenses, made by SAP and TYC XF/XG headlights were made by Lucas aftermarket lenses made by SAP, TYC and DEPO/Lucid aftermarket lights made by TYC and DEPO/Lucid

I'd like to know where all the new genuine XF and XG headlights went? Even back around 2005's, it was impossible to find new XG headlights. I found one ONCE, but silly me didn't purchase it, as only one side. The XF and XG headlights, did have different part numbers - XF Assembly RH - XFN13005B LH - XFN13006B XG Assembly RH - EDC13005A LH - EDC13006A XF/XG lense - RH - XFN13011C LH - XFN13011D XF/XG reflector - RH - XF13118A LH - XF13119A XF housing RH - XF13H008A LH - XF13H009A XG housing RH - EDC13H008A LH - EDC13H009A

Yes, I put an inline filter sock and removed the thermostat, prior to filling with the Evaporust stuff. I used a Tefba filter unit, which has a magnet in it also. I improved the stock included metal filter, by covering it in some stocking type filter material. I was amazed at the sheer volume of rust flakes and stuff caught by the filter. 10,000km later, I was still cleaning it out every week or so. The cleaning intervals get longer, but wow it grabs alot of stuff. Neglected cooling systems are the WORST! edit - I have power-flushed (incl reverse flush) (with a jet nozzle on the hose) blocked falcon heater cores directly, with great success. Falcon/Commodore ones are all brass/copper, but many imported and/or JDM vehicles have plastic end-tank heater cores - which I've had split once RANDOMLY (likely from steam pocket).

One way to GENTLY clean out cooling system corrosion such as the above, is to use some Evaporust cooling system flush. I have used it, and it works very well. You fill the entire cooling system with it, as you would a normal coolant, then run the vehicle through a few heat cycles over a week or so, depending on the corrosion level. There were some new old Stock Thermostat housings on ebay a while ago. If not, I may be able to get you a NOS one, and/or a near perfect condition second hand one, if you can't afford new. I see the lower radiator hose and water pump heater hose, have the factory Utilux clamps still. Very cool! The factory Crossflow 76DA water pumps have cast iron impellers, whereas the only aftermarket options (GMB or Gates), have stamped steel impellers which IMO are not as good. If your water pump is a factory NON-aircon type (metal fan), I may be able to find you a NOS genuine ford one of those too, maybe.... Only if yours is no good. edit - here is an old-stock (OEM Ford supplier but Repco boxed) water pump with the die-cast housing, and cast iron impeller - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NOS-REPCO-Water-Pump-Ford-Falcon-200-250-6-Cylinder-Cortina-New-XC-XD-WP1805/233853940296 and an extremely overpriced thermostat housing - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/XC-XD-XE-XF-FALCON-TE-TF-MK4-MK5-CORTINA-GEN-FORD-NOS-6-CYL-THERMOSTAT-HOUSING/323710063630

Yes, I can answer this question. I'm in the process of rebuilding a Single Rail for my XB Falcon. There is only ONE supplier in the Australia (and the world) for single rail gearbox rebuild parts. BorgWarner/BTR/ION/DSI Australia, closed about 10yrs ago. The supplier is called ATC - in Wagga Wagga NSW According to the fellow I spoke to, there are very few parts available. You can only get the following bits new - Gaskets/seals/small bushes/bearings Shift fork Bush Syncro's Layshaft bearing assy - rollers and center shaft Nothing else is available, unless you find New Old Stock. The above kit, excl syncro's, is about $350.00

Even the watts-link suspension in XE-AU, handles un-predicably once the bushes wear, although not quite as bad, as the IRS. Replacement bushes are available aftermarket, I believe? Maybe a B-series or FG IRS rear? I think bushes are available those still also.

Stands to reason, it should work then? If the charge/alt light goes out, when the vehicle starts, then it should be generating a voltage. Have you earthed the engine block? (earth from bell housing to firewall, and from cyl head to battery) If the engine block isn't earthed relative to battery negative, the alternator obviously won't work.

Ford did a watts-link coil spring EA wagon prototype, which I have pic's of. The IRS suspension ages badly IMO - think Ford Territory, but not quite as bad. When they age, they develop very unpredictable handling. Ford has obsoleted the AU IRS suspension bushes. They weren't available aftermarket either, being special void bushes. (may be available now, not sure) In my experience the Ford leaf spring rear's, age 100 times better compared to IRS, and are much more controllable in the event of lost traction - ie, wagons around corners, in wet weather.

Sounds like a scene from that Aussie Horror movie, with the XD Falcon...

Very good article! Hopefully one of the new admins can sticky this thread, to the top! The factory Ford OHC thermostats were made in England by a company called WaxStat They were 92 degrees, and had jiggle siphons fitted. ART92G is the part number. Current OEM Ford ART92G thermostats are 91 degrees, and do not have the bleed hole/jiggle siphon. They aren't the made in England ones anymore, I don't believe?