SPArKy_Dave

Can u post a picture of the spring, and height that the vehicle is sitting at? Also the bump-stop clearance. That will let us help u more.

TTS010, is XD/XE Cleveland - (XD/XE gauges use lower resistance senders) U need to run an XF temp sender, for the XF dash cluster I think around 60ohms, = mid-way on XF temp gauges, and 35ohms = Max/Hot Tridon TTS037 should be the one u need. (thread/post terminal) OR VDO 320.093 (OEM) OR FuelMiser CTS144 Undo the thread adaptor from ur old sensor, and re-use it (Crossflow 1/8 - 27NPT to Cleveland 3/8 - 18NPT)

https://mooregoodink.com/minimizing-spark-scatter-in-the-vintage-race-engine/

There's only two brands I've seen - Loctite (my preferred one) and Permatex, which I've not had much success with.

If it's a chinese knockoff 'PBR' master cyl made by Protex, I've read numerous people advising not to use them, as they can be problematic. Better to re-seal/sleeve the original PBR unit IMO. If it's an aftermarket one, it could be leaking? Watch it doesn't leak onto the engine bay paint!

It's the little things, that make all the difference!

That sort of coil should be fine, just needs to be a GT40R coil - to suit a resistor wire/points system GT40R is a 9v coil - to suit points GT40 is a 12v coil, for electronic style ignition

reminds me of normal x-series steering... @deankxf When I drove the $300 Grandpa XF ute back from near Maldon, (in the dark and rain mind you), it was extremely taxing to steer. Terrible even for an XF... I wasn't comfortable going over 80. A look over in the following days, revealed an idler arm with no bushing left on one end. Some further investigation, showed it'd been off the rd for almost 10yrs!

The XH seems to have a reco'd steering rack and power steering pump, plus newer lower ball joints, but all the shock absorbers appear to be original still.

The 03/98 XH panelvan I'm cleaning up atm, has 566,000km on the original bottom end (and transmission too looks like). Cyl head was done at 520,000km-ish. It seems quite perky, and a COLD compression test showed an even 165psi across all cylinders. It's the highest km XH I've ever seen.

Yes, bought one of those many moons ago.

Do a key relearn, that should fix it!

My XB panelvan project, is a factory manual V8 vehicle. Before I owned it, someone converted it to Auto, thus I'm attempting to return it to stock. It would've been factory fitted with a Single Rail gearbox, but I'm struggling to identify what an XB single rail gear shifter, actually looks like. I've purchased a date-code correct gearbox, but the shifter it came with, is clearly not right. From what little info I can find, XB single rail shifters were chrome plated, same as Escort and Cortina (and XD falcon too) single rails. I've managed to find one person with a chrome plated shift lever, but they're asking north of $100 for it, so I need to be sure it's right. Here are the pics they sent me of it... can anyone tell me if it's XB, XD, Escort/Cortina etc?

In the end, I did. Eventually I found someone selling a set of XB 302 V8 Manual Clutch and Brake pedals, with a proper good condition chrome shifter handle too. From memory, the whole lot cost about $180? Still on the hunt for a Single Rail V8 bell housing though. Proving tough to find one!

Had an F350 once that did that... 4000rpm in 4th @100

Perhaps it's a problem with PATS? (Passive Anti-Theft System - B-series anti-theft) Sometimes the keys can lose their connection with the vehicle, and need to be re-programmed. A scan tool, should be able to see if PATS is active, to prevent or allow vehicle starting. A scan-tool should also allow easy key programming, if needed.

If no spark, look at the crank angle sensor. Take off fuel supply hose at the fuel rail, and check the pump is priming with ign on, and/or flowing when cranking.

center clamp bolt onto steering box splines, and two bolts onto steering column. May need to remove steering box, to change the rag joint properly.

ebay should have them - HAL005M is the part no. (I think) Or Performance Ignition, in Nunawading Vic

I'd look at replacing the hall effect sensor inside the distributor. A failing sensor, commonly causes the issue you describe.

There's only two band adjustments on them. Front band, accessed by removing the pan, and rear band at the back R/H side, up top, also the kickdown cable, which affects fluid pressure. The Rear (First/Reverse) Band is easy - Loosen locknut, tighten bolt to 14Nm, back off bolt 3/4 of a turn, then re-tighten locknut. Front (Second/Third) Band is a bit harder - Remove oil pan, place a 1/4 inch spacer between band servo piston and the end of the adjusting bolt. Loosen lock nut, tighten adjuster screw to 1.1Nm, then re-tighten locknut Parts list - https://www.alltranz.com.au/shop/drivetrain/automatic-transmission/BW35/ Also see this thread -

I used a small right angle pick tool, on the last one I did. They're not in very tight.

I'd check to see if ur rear wheel cylinders are moving ok. And the front ones too. Is it drum or disc front?

Yeah, mostly have to rebuild ur original PBR parts these days. Don't throw anything away, etc. Could it be an over-pressure bypass, if one circuit or the other gets seized up - ie, if a caliper or wheel cylinder get seized? So u don't lose all braking.

The crossflow in my XFN (Nissan) ute, had 6thou clearance on the mains... lol! Still ran quite reasonably, too.