SPArKy_Dave

Depends if it's Smartlock or Smartshield? Can you swap over the original ign lock sensor, and the lock barrel?

Electricity takes the path of least resistance. Those LED globes must've had a high resistance from brake to earth connection, and a lower resistance, from brake to tail light connection. If the globe is slightly undersize, and doesn't contact the lamp holder socket earth properly, it'll do the same.

Sounds like plenum chamber rust? Common on earlier x-series, but not often seen on XH's... yet. @deankdxcan advise about uploading pictures

These days, it's usually the outer door latch mechanism, that seizes up. Especially with x-series which have been sitting. (higher chance of sticking, if exposed to the weather also) I've encountered the above problem, multiple times now - dealing with aged XD-XF's. I've personally not had any real luck yet fixing the problem apart from removing door trims (and also pinch-weld seals - to better expose the stuck outer mechanism)... then drowning the inner and outer mechs with a Penetrene/WD40/CRC type spray. Sometimes they've come loose after doing that, and sometimes not. I've got one rear door and one front door - still stuck after 12mths. Moving forward, I would be inclined to pack the outer mech's with a general purpose zinc or lithium grease or similar lubricant - a grease which won't degrade small plastic or nylon parts, which may be present inside the latch mech.

Rebuild kits for BW35/40/51's are about $250.00 Unless it's urgent, I'd rebuild the original.

My 2 cents - if it works, it works. BTR's can be finicky things, when not maintained. I've directly experienced ones playing up under 200,000km, and others still be working fine at over 600,000km If it were mine, I'd probably remove the valve-body to check the B1 and B2 band clearances and re-shim if needed. Then if within spec, I'd re-assemble, change the fluid, and re-install the trans. If a BTR's B1 band can't grip the drum to stop it spinning when commanded, the trans will lose 2nd and 4th gear. In my experience, second hand BTR's almost always have faults, despite what any seller says. I regard them, as rebuildable cores.

The Cleveland Air cleaners, are grouped into Carburettor types, and emissions vs pre-emissions vehicles. Your pics are 1975 onwards (passenger vehicles) F-trucks (commercial vehicles) were emissions exempt, thus the pre-emission aircleaners carried over, for a while. The WW Stromberg carbs were fitted to XA 302, (possibly some early XB 302's), and mid-70's F-truck 302's also. Pre-emissions = no charcoal canister for fuel vapours (fuel cap vented to atmosphere), and oil cap open to atmosphere (crankcase emissions) These vehicles with 302, had a massive mouth snorkel on the air cleaner, Hot air intake under the snorkel but no vacuum valve, and one hose to air-cleaner body for PCV. Post-1975 = charcoal canister, one way valve in fuel filler cap, washer bottle relocated to behind battery to accommodate charcoal canister, and oil cap has hose to air cleaner body along with PCV hose These vehicles used a narrower 351 style snorkel - as per the pics above. XA 302 air cleaners were painted red, with a 6cyl style round snorkel Early XB pre-emissions large snorkel 302 aircleaners were painted red same as XA, Later XB pre-emissions large snorkel 302 air cleaners, were blue I haven't quite narrowed down the paint colour change-over point, yet. All 351 Air cleaners were painted blue.

Slower/less coolant flow, on the Alloy head gasket. Also more prone to blocking up those coolant holes, if not maintained.

Up to March 1993 at least, all the XF's (and maybe very early XG's) used the same XF bonnet and insulation. Part numbers - XF-16612-A - Hood XF-16738-A - Insulator Hood Sound At least some of the XG's (later ones or possibly all) had EDC part numbers - EDC-16612-A - Hood EDC-16738-A - Insulator Hood Sound I have a New Old Stock XG Insulator, so can 100% confirm they are different to XF.

I heard that exact sentiment about Bosch from someone else, just the other day. I do agree. It's a real shame as they WERE a quality manufacturer... I guess NTK only now, for the O2's? Awesome tip on the thermostat yes. Without the foot, (and not on gas) the OHC's run a few increments hotter on the gauge, in my experience. I'd also suggest to pre-test any new thermostat, by suspending it in a pot or kettle, slowly bring it to the boil, whilst monitoring the opening temp with a thermometer. Tip - suspend it by a length of thin wire, held by the closed thermostat spring tension. Soon as it begins to open, it will drop off the wire, thus indicating the exact opening temperature.

68/3.4 = 20L/100km This screams 'dead o2 sensor' to me. XG original Ford o2 sensors were either Bosch or NTK branded. Around town, an OHC powered Falcon should return about 12-13L/100km Coolant in the exhaust will kill an o2 sensor, new or old. For fuel efficiency, the OHC engine ECU's monitor at o2, MAP sensor, TPS, and coolant temperature Start with a new o2 sensor, (use NTK or Bosch brand only) plus check for the correct coolant temperature (cold will run rich). Factory thermostat is 92degrees. Then if it still needs improvement, get the injectors serviced, and/or fit a new MAP sensor. Aim for around 12-13L/100km around town, and 10-11L/100km freeway driving.

The power of OzFalcon, compels you!

For anyone needing replacement Ford crossflow 6cyl welsh plugs - Premier Engine Components (Nasons), makes a full (Australian Made) brass welsh plug kit with x5 1-3/4 plus x2 2-1/16 and x1 tiny 7/16 plug - part no. WPEK971 OR they also have the 1-3/4 cup welsh plugs by the bag of x10 - part no. BC1034 (brass), PMSC1034 (steel), SSC1034 (stainless steel) https://premiermachinery.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2020/06/premier-welch-plugs.pdf Precision Engine Parts sells brass welsh plugs individually, but not sure on the brand. Part numbers as follows - 7/16 - CP0010 1-1/2 - CP0250 1-3/4 - CP0320 2-1/16 - CP0450 https://precisionintl.com/v/ford-australia-falcon-xf-4-1-1986-1993-petrol-ute/c/100000-standard/106000-cooling-fuel-oil-systems/106169-core-plugs Merry Christmas.

To my knowledge, all the aftermarket (FPM-008 or similar) XE/XF crossflow mechanical (canister style) fuel pumps, are made by Daewha in Korea. Even the last of Ford's 'Genuine' over-counter spare parts canister pumps, were the Korean ones. Buy on price. To my knowledge, rebuild kits were only available for the earlier XC/XD non-canister style pumps. The aftermarket Goss brand crossflow fuel pump, is a non-canister style (non-rebuildable though). In my experience, this style pump can cause extended crank-times/hard starting, due to lack of the canister/fuel reservoir.

I uploaded the XE Falcon Spring ID charts for you -

I put some info on the database for you, which may help -

Here's my advice - no matter which springs you choose, pair them with Bilstein or Koni shock absorbers - set to suit. This is country-pack suspension - This was Pedders something, with shortened bump stops Stock ESP height -

I like technical books, that one looks like a good investment!

All the same bearings I would've thought? Maybe grab the part numbers off one of the bearings, and go from there?

That stuff looks very fancy! What rings did you go with?