SPArKy_Dave

Get your old injectors back..... it's not injectors. Get your old leads and dissy cap back..... it won't be those either. If you had a dud lead, the ute would kick and buck a bit under load, but still run ok. If it's backfiring, then usually it's ignition related, not fuel supply related. I would try a new distributor - genuine bosch available off ebay, for about $160.00. (do not get a chinese copy dissy) It's probably a dying PIP hall effect sensor. If you're cluey, you can replace just the PIP and/or TFI module. If the coil is dying, you can often see cracks in the body, when it's removed. Run the fault codes, and see if it gives you a direction - ie, Coil, PIP or TFI. Also, make sure you're using the EA-ED type, long electrode spark plugs - they need to be used, with the log intake manifold engines. (such as on the standard XH's) Edit - beaten to it, by VDO.

So the Volante Alloys wouldn't fit the disc brake rears properly..... interesting! I and all the other OzFalcon members, THANK you...... oh great knowledgeable one - keeper of the holy bibles....

What gold paint did you end up using?

You've been holding out on us dude..... Methinks we need to see some more TSB's. Maybe we could start a dedicated resource section in the forum somewhere?

I'd maybe un-glue the old rubber from the tan pinchweld, and then glue on new rubber, using specific rubber trim glue. Wurth do an awesome trim glue, if you can find some.

Who has info on this fella. I can't find anything. I have one pic, and some sketchy info. He was a guy up in townsville that was making twin cam heads that fit on the I6 4L as well as the Crossflow 4.1L and the Holden 6's. Apparently, they tested his heads in streetmachine mag August 2000 on an XR6 ute. Those heads bolt onto any holden 186/202 or ford 200/250 or I6 ohc. Pretty trick gear. Twin belt driven cams. Twin sparkplugs per cylinder. I think the article found, it was good for around 325hp on an otherwise stock AU XR6. Apparently in the end, poor marketing and the BA DOHC is what killed these heads. They retailed for around $2.5k brand new the article said. https://www.facebook.com/Aussiespeed/videos/901370843206896

Why'd you make it so high? Did you actually measure under the car before, to see what the ground clearance was? Also.. for steering box reference sake - http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/2988-needle-roller-bearing/#entry69889

Wow! Taxi mileage right there! Over 2.5million km's from a BTR.......... must've been all highway driving, in 4th.

You'd probably hear the hissing, if there was a major vacuum leak. They're such simple engines, not much to go wrong. Check the vacuum advance diaphragm on the dissy. That can be perished, causing a vacuum leak. Can you post up a pic of the engine bay?

Was it idling rough, before you replaced things? Remember to keep it as original as possible. All those little things - original Carby, Autolite/Motorcraft Spark Plug leads, alternator - have date codes on them, to match to the build date of the car. Those date codes, will help you tell if things have been replaced in the past. If the original bits are still fitted, (wherever possible) I would rebuild/repair them, rather than replace.

Hmmmmm, So even if it WAS compliant at the time of installation, you're saying it has to be changed? I've had a few cars go through RWC with pretty much all the above - incl the old copper hardline in Garden hose trick, for the tank to converter line. (running through the rear wheel arch too I might add.)

If the gas system was originally installed in the panel van - before 1999, then the old style of LPG stickers would be quite fine. Standards are not applied retrospectively. If they were, then no cars would ever be roadworthy/compliant with standards. As long as a vehicle is compliant with the standards, which were applicable at the time of the vehicle construction (or LPG system installation in this case) then all is well.

93-95 XG (ED/Laser too) era factory radio - With code - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ford-Laser-Radio-Cassette-/131412545545?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e98cc5009

Dunno if that's the security number on the side of it or not - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ford-Falcon-Push-Button-Car-Radio-Cassette-Player-XD-XE-XF-EA-EB-/121546834538?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c4cc1826a

Also, so you don't have to cut up the factory loom, to connect one of these........ Get some of the Aerpro repair looms, - a male EA Falcon era head unit plug - to connect with the dash loom. http://aerpro.com/ap1692f - and a female EF/EL Falcon head unit plug to connect into your choice of late 90's era falcon Head Unit. http://aerpro.com/717901f Solder/Heatshrink the ends together in the correct sequence, and you're away! If you're feeling really game, you can order the actual OEM plugs in their bare form, from RS Components, along with the crimp terminals which are separate. The OEM plugs are called - Multiple Interlock Connectors. ('MULTILOCK' Connectors for short) More specifically - Mark1 .070 Series MULTILOCK connectors. They're made by AMP Connectors Japan - now owned by TE Connectivity. (otherwise known in the industry, as takeyourcompanyover - TYCO) http://www.te.com/catalog/finf/en/c/10372/10371/0?RQS= http://www.efo.ru/doc/emc/downloads/te/connectors/Auto/65839%20-%20Multilock%20Connectors.pdf http://au.rs-online.com/web/c/connectors/pcb-connectors/pcb-connector-contacts/?searchTerm=Multilock http://au.rs-online.com/web/c/connectors/pcb-connectors/pcb-connector-housings/?searchTerm=Multilock You'll find the plug manufacturer part numbers, hidden in the electrical section of the EF/EL Ford factory repair manuals. Although I didn't realise they were part numbers till later on, after I'd found the plug info the (incredibly) hard way. The radio plug part no's are (from memory) 173850-1 - smaller one http://au.rs-online.com/web/p/pcb-connector-housings/3629064P/ and 173851-1 - bigger one http://au.rs-online.com/web/p/pcb-connector-housings/3629086P/ The dash 1 in the part number, means they're a natural white coloured plastic. You can get many different colours - dash 2 means 'black' for example. They're also available in a high fire rated plastic too - denoted by a 1 dash, at the start of the part number. (for example: 1-173850-1 means a fire rated 8 pin wire to wire receptical, which is natural coloured) How in the hell do I know all this you may ask? On my EL wags, one of the original plugs was missing from a typical (butchered loom) aftermarket headunit installation. I wanted to repair the loom as close to factory as possible, thus I delved into the very depths of the components which are used to construct the EL Falcon wiring looms themselves.

Need to find one of those EA ones........ BUT....... (me being the know'er of many things Ford and great) ........ I know where there are some NOS ones of those head units. (and of the other sort they put in the 95-96 XG's and XH's.) I've sent you a PM Pauly.

Lol, it looks like one of those abstract Picasso paintings of a landscape reflection in a lake. It's really terrible. Ford must be getting old mate in the back shed, to do the painting. (and even then, I'd expect better) The tiny pin pricks, are called solvent pop. My understanding, is it's caused when the job is rushed, and not enough flash time is allowed between coats, and/or it's then force dried too quickly with radiant heat. I first experienced that phenomenon, when I was resto'ing the under carriage on my Rangie Classic. I was painting various brackets during winter time, and had them hanging in front of an old bar radiator. The side facing the radiator got the tiny bubbles, where as the opposing side was perfect. That solvent pop will always be there - ie, you generally can't cut it out of the finish, unless the clear coat is mega thick. Even then, if it's also in the base coat, you'll always have a below par finish.

RIDE AND ROLL RESISTANCE-SPRING Too much spring: overall • Harsh and choppy ride • Much unprovoked sliding • Car will not put power down on corner exit – excessive wheel-spin Relatively too much spring: front • Understeer – although the car may initially point in well • Front breaks loose over bumps in corners • Front tyres lock while braking over bumps Relatively too much spring: rear • Oversteer immediately on application of power • Excessive wheel-spin Too little spring: overall • Car contacts the track a lot • Floating ride with excess vertical chassis movement, pitch and roll • Sloppy and inconsistent response • Car slow to take a set – may take more than one Relatively too little spring: rear • Excessive squat on acceleration accompanied by excessive rear negative camber, leading to oversteer and poor power down characteristics • Tendency to fall over on outside rear tyre and ‘flop’ into oversteer and wheel-spin ANTI-ROLL BARS Too much anti-roll bar: overall • Car will be very sudden in response and will have little feel • Car will tend to slide or skate rather than taking a set – especially in slow and medium speed corners • Car may dart over one wheel or diagonal bumps Relatively too much anti-roll bar: front • Corner entry understeer which usually becomes progressively worse as the driver tries to tighten the corner radius. Relatively too much anti-roll bar: rear • If the imbalance is extreme can cause corner entry oversteer • Corner exit oversteer. Car won’t put down power but goes directly to oversteer due to inside wheel-spin • Excessive sliding on corner exit • Car has a violent reaction to major bumps and may be upset by ‘FIA’ kerbs Too little anti-roll bar: overall • Car is lazy in response, generally sloppy • Car is reluctant to change direction in chicane and esses Relatively too little anti-roll bar: front • Car ‘falls over’ onto outside tyre on corner entry and then washes out into understeer • Car is lazy in direction changes Relatively too little anti-roll: rear • My own opinion is that on most road courses a rear anti-roll bar is a bad thing. Anti-roll bars transfer lateral load from the unladen tyre to the laden tyre – exactly what we don’t want at the rear. I would much rather use enough spring to support the rear of the car. The exception comes when there are ‘washboard ripples’ at corner exits, as on street circuits and poorly paved road circuits. SHOCK ABSORBER FORCES Too much shock: overall • A very sudden car with harsh ride qualities, much sliding and wheel patter • Car will not absorb road surface irregularities but crashes over them Too much rebound force • Wheels do not return quickly to road surface after displacement. Inside wheel in a corner may be pulled off the road by the damper while still loaded • Car may ‘jack down’ over bumps or in long corners causing a loss of tyre compliance. Car does not power down well at exit of corners when road surface is not extremely smooth Too much bump force: general • Harsh reaction to road surface irregularities. • Car slides rather than sticking • Car doesn’t put power down well - driving wheels hop. Too much low piston speed bump force • Car’s reaction to steering input too sudden • Car’s reaction to lateral and longitudinal load transfer too harsh Too much high piston speed bump force • Car’s reaction to minor road surface irregularities too harsh – tyres hop over ‘chatter bumps’ and ripples in braking areas and corner exits. Too little shock: overall • Car floats a lot (the Cadillac ride syndrome) and oscillates after bumps • Car dives and squats a lot • Car rolls quickly in response to lateral acceleration and may tend to ‘fall over’ onto the outside front tyre during corner entry and outside rear tyre on corner exit. • Car is generally sloppy and unresponsive Too little rebound force: overall • Car floats – oscillates after bumps (the Cadillac ride syndrome) Too little bump force: overall • Initial turn in reaction soft and sloppy • Excessive and quick roll, dive and squat Too little low piston speed bump force • Car is generally imprecise and sloppy in response to lateral (and, to a lesser extent longitudinal) accelerations and to driver steering inputs Too little high piston speed bump force • Suspension may bottom over the largest bumps on the track resulting in momentary loss of tyre contact and excessive instantaneous loads on suspension and chassis Dead shock on one corner • A dead shock is surprisingly difficult for a driver to identify and/or isolate • At the rear, that car will ‘fall over’ onto the outside tyre and oversteer in one direction only • At the front, the car will ‘fall over’ onto the outside tyre on corner entry and then understeer. WHEEL ALIGNMENT Front toe-in: too much • Car darts over bumps, under heavy braking and during corner entry – is generally unstable • Car won’t point into corners, or if extreme. May point in very quickly and then dart and wash out Front toe-out: too much • Car wanders under heavy braking and may be somewhat unstable in a straight line, especially in response to single wheel or diagonal bumps and/or wind gusts • Car may point into corners and then refuse to take a set • If extreme will cause understeer tyre drag in long corners Rear toe-in: too little • Power on oversteer during corner exit Rear toe-in: too much • Rear feels light and unstable during corner entry. Car slides through corners rather than rolling freely Rear toe-our: any • Power oversteer during corner exit and (maybe) in a straight line • Straight line instability Front wheel caster or trail: too little • Car too sensitive (twitchy?) • Too little steering feel and feedback Front wheel caster or trail: too much • Excessive physical steering effort accompanied by too much self return action and transmittal of road shocks to the drivers hands • General lack of sensitivity to steering input due to excessive force required Front wheel caster or trail: uneven • Steering effort is harder in one direction than in the other • Car will ‘pull’ towards the side with less caster – good on ovals, bad on road courses Camber: too much negative • Inside of tyre excessively hot and/or wearing too rapidly. At the front this will show up as reduced braking capability and at the rear as reduced acceleration capability. Depending on the racetrack and the characteristics of the individual tyre, inside temperature should be 10°-25° hotter than the outside. Use a real pyrometer with a needle rather than an infra red surface temperature device. Camber: not enough negative • Outside of tyre will be hot and wearing. This should never be and is almost always caused by running static positive camber at the rear in an effort to avoid the generation of excessive negative camber under the influence of aero download at high speed. • A better solution is improved geometry and increased spring rate. Dynamic positive camber will always degrade rear tyre performance and if extreme, can cause braking instability and/or corner exit oversteer. Bump steer, front: too much toe-in in bump • Car darts over bumps and understeers on corner entry Bump steer, front: too much toe-out in bump • Car wanders under brakes and may dart over one wheel or diagonal bumps • Car may understeer after initial turn in Bump steer, rear: too much toe-in in bump (same as solid axle steer on outside wheel) • Roll understeer on corner entry • Mid phase corner understeer • ‘Tiptoe’ instability when trail braking • Darting on power application on corner exit Bump steer, rear: too much toe-out in bump (same as solid axle steer on outside wheel) • Instability on acceleration • Good turn in followed by a tendency to oversteer at mid-phase and exit TYRES Too much tyre pressure • Harsh ride, excessive wheel patter, sliding and wheel-spin • High temperature reading and wear at the centre of the tyre Too little tyre pressure • Soft and mushy response • Reduced footprint area and reduced traction • High temperatures with a dip in the centre of the tread Front tyres ‘going off’ • Gradually increasing understeer – Enter corners slower, get on power earlier with less steering lock Rear tyres ‘going off’ • Gradually increasing power on oversteer – Try to carry more speed through corner and be later and more gradual with power application LIMITED SLIP MALADIES Limited slip differential wearing out • Initial symptoms are decreased power on understeer or increased power on oversteer and inside wheel spin. The car might be easier to drive, but it will be slow • When wear becomes extreme, stability under hard acceleration from low speed will diminish and things will not be pleasant at all Excessive cam or ramp angle on coast side plate (clutch pack) limited slip differential • Corner entry, mid-phase and corner exit understeer. Incurable with geometry changes or rates – must change differential ramps. In 1998, virtually everyone is running 0/0 or 80/80 ramps. SUSPENSION GEOMETRY Excessive front scrub radius (steering offset) • Excessive steering effort accompanied by imprecise and inconsistent ‘feel’ and feedback Excessive roll centre lateral envelope: front or rear • Non-linear response and feel to steering input and lateral ‘G’ (side force) generation Rear roll centre too low (or front r/c relatively too high) • Roll axis too far out of parallel with mass centroid axis, leading to non-linear generation of lateral load transfer and chassis roll as well as the generation of excessive front jacking force. • Tendency will be towards understeer Rear roll centre too high (or front r/c relatively too low) • Opposite of above, tending towards excessive jacking at the rear and oversteer Front track width too narrow relative to rear • Car tends to ‘trip over its front feet’ during slow and medium speed corner entry, evidenced by lots of understeer (remember trying to turn your tricycle?) • Crutch is to increase front ride rate and roll resistance and increase the camber curves in the direction of more negative camber in bump (usually by raising the front roll centre)

Depends where it leaked from exactly. If it just burst the hose in the engine bay at one end, you could get another fitting crimped on the end. Look up CoolDrive distribution or ADRAD, for aircon parts. Being an all flexible hose from TX to comp, says that you likely have an aftermarket/ non genuine aircon system fitted to the car. Do you have the options list, to show if it was a factory AC car or not?

First off, I'd get the pressure washer in there, to clean out all the dust. Then I'd buy some Evaporust or Safestrustremover - both competing products, but work the same way. They're waterbased rust removers. You set up a small wading pool/reservior under the area to be de-rusted, then use a pond pump and hose setup (get creative here) to spray/circulate the solution onto the rusted area's. It might take a couple of hours, or a couple of days of circulating the rust remover, to dissolve the rust. Once the area's are cleaned up, I'd seal with a Fish Oil or Panel Wax product.

Wasp and the Japanese Made 555 (when you can find 555) seem to be some of the better ones. Repco seem to bring in the TRW components, but they're not the original factory fitted TRW. There is also a US brand called MOOG, which they seem to like in the states. Can't comment on the durability though.

It's happening again..........

(assuming it's not blown) Just remove and refit your Auto TX fuse a few times, while the ignition is on. See if everything comes back. It's the BCM power fuse.

I'd recommend one that shorts the coil to ground, intermittently. Gives the impression that the car is faulty, but is actually the anti-theft device working.

An EF alternator is the highest capacity of the three options. A sec/hand unit is always a gamble.... $90, and you might only get 3-6mths from it. Unless a sec/hand unit is known to have been rebuilt recently, the brushes in most of them will be at least 1/2 to 3/4 worn by now. IN my experience, the brushes have a lifespan of about 300-350,000km. Voltage regs and rectifier packs can fail earlier, if the charging system has been run hard many times - flat/old batteries, frequent night driving, big stereo, etc. Why not do what I would do..... and rebuild your original alternator? As long as you have access to basic tools and a soldering iron, it's an easy job to accomplish. Determine if it's brushes/reg assembly or rectifier pack. Buy replacement parts from ebay. Check bearing condition while alternator is apart. Solder in replacement parts, replace or re-grease bearings, reassemble, and your done!....... An alternator ready to last another 2-300,000km. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ford-EF-EL-AU2-Mazda-Alternator-Mitsubishi-rectifier-/360260104095?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53e12cef9f http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/EF-EL-Ford-Falcon-Alternator-Rectifire-3Year-warranty-/271452653899?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f33d6c94b http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/EF-EL-Ford-Falcon-Alternator-Regulator-3Year-warranty-Genuine-mitsubishi-/271452632499?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f33d675b3 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mitsubishi-Slip-Ring-for-FORD-Falcon-EF-EL-AU-BA-BF-FG-Alternator-/280624322094?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item415683562e http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/PFI-ALTERNATOR-MITSUBISHI-BEARINGS-FORD-EB-EF-EL-8x23x14mm-B-NEW-4-/400736422636?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d4dc08aec http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/PFI-ALTERNATOR-BEARINGS-USA-17x62x18mm-MITSUBISHI-FORD-EF-EL-71a-/150972080254?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2326a3207e