SPArKy_Dave

I've always used DX3 fluid in my BW40's. Same for XE/XF power steering. DX3 is cheap, and commonly available everywhere. E-series and later BTR 4spds use TQ95, and F424 in the power steering.

Sounds like it could be fuel related (or lack thereof)? (either injector, or injector control?) Have u tried swapping Injectors?

I actually have this issue, with the non-matching number engine in the XF SVO project ute... (crossflow six on LPG) Doesn't bother me, as I have a Windsor engine conversion waiting to go in. In my case, the engine runs perfect when cold, but gradually develop's a steady miss, as it warms up. It happens like clockwork. A compression test early on, yielded two cylinders with high compression relative to all the rest, plus oily plugs on cylinders 2,3,5 and 6. (no.2 the worst by FAR) These new plugs, had barely a handful of hours run-time. 1 - 155 2 - 152 3 - 170 4 - 156 5 - 169 6 - 148 Could the issue be caused by valves not opening fully? I'll soon know, once I dissect the engine and measure all the clearances - to hopefully learn something myself My theory is, (in my case at least) it could only be caused by either - 1. a faulty lifter (HLA in the case of OHC engines) 2. a partly wiped cam lobe 3. and/or a very slightly bent/sticking valve stem? (possible but unlikely IMO)

Which model falcon are u referring to?... we probably need to see pics, to give helpful comments. If u can get help, I'd remove/fit the screen myself, rather than the 'pro's'.

Founds some brand new ones - repro? https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/275600095528/

Here's an ebay listing, with the different types side by side - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/175342787711/ (expensive rattle can reco!)

I always thought XA and early XB, got the machined finish Chrome center caps (my blue 75' XB GS panelvan, had these) I thought the later XB's got smooth finish caps, then the XC's got one piece caps, chrome or satin black? I have both sorts of XB caps for my yellow XB panelvan. It's an 11/74, which was right when time when Ford made alot of small subtle changes, so not sure which is correct. They rattle, when the rubber insulator, falls off (available repro now) https://www.rarespares.net.au/rarespares/buy/f2431/wheel-centre-cap-insulator-xa-xb-xc-gs-gt-12-slot

I'd just avoid all the expenditure, and stick with column auto. Find a blank console - I see them occasionally. (used for XD/XE column auto bucket seat vehicles - were usually Fairmonts) Or even the short ones like this - https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/620067103351800/ (does it have one of those already?)

Yrs ago, I built a dual battery controller for my Range Rover, as the early 80's models have dual battery trays from factory, just no wiring. The way things are headed, batteries could be cheaper than grid supply! (probably not, but who knows!) Last year, I looked into the old single cylinder diesel gensets, made by Lister. They run on almost any oil-based fuel source.

There may be a product out there, but if not, it'd be custom. I'm not sure a Li Ion jump pack would charge safely, via the 12v jump leads? Li Ion packs are charged via inbuilt battery management systems, as they're comprised of many 1.2v AA cells, wired appropriately. Each small group of cells are monitored separately, so they're all charged equally. You could possibly achieve ur idea, using a 12v charger via the jump-pack's plug-in charge port? Some may need a button pushed to commence charging though. I don't have enough experience with them. My preferred jump pack, is still the old lead-acid type as IMO, they have a better safety profile when charging.

Personally, I'd stick with the stock 89degree thermostat. Especially important with an EFI crossflow, for correct fuel/timing map, etc. Heater will also work better, and the engine will run cleaner. A 13lb cap instead of 16lb, will lower the boiling point, which isn't what I'd want to do personally. I recommend a minimum ratio of 1/3 coolant, 2/3 demineralised water. Maybe old mate, was thinking of the 70's era x-series? From memory, Natra made the factory radiators for Falcons, into the E-series. (Aussie Made) Natra was bought out by Adrad yrs ago, who kept the old tooling - still used to make the current replacement units. Pretty sure Denso made the AU onwards radiators? (Imported) I'm not sure if they existed in Australia, prior to the 90's? Calsonic, made radiators in Australia for GMH, and later imported them. They may have done Ford's too, not sure.

(additional pics/info added - 03-03-23) The Italian made Weber 34adm Carburetor, was factory fitted to XE/XF Falcon 6cyl, Ford F100-350's and Ford Bronco 6cyl. It existed as factory fitment, from mid 1982, up till March 1993 - when the XF Falcon commercial range ended, and the XG Falcon was launched. The stock 34adm carby, has a flow rate of 230cfm. (see flow test pic, further down) For an easy upgrade, a 38/38 Weber carburetor has a 390cfm flow rate, and bolts directly to the stock intake manifold. The purpose of this thread, is to have Technical and Parts info for the Weber 34adm Carburetor, all in one location. I will edit and add to this first post, as I find further info. If anyone has any additional info on these carby's, they're most welcome to add it into the thread. Exploded_view_of_WEBER_34_ADM_0_USD.pdf List of parts: No Part No Price Pcs Description 1 31716.461 $ 0 1 Carb Top Cover 2 37022.004 $ 10.3 1 Filter element 3 64700.005 $ 0 6 Top Cover Fixing Screw 4 64010.034 $ 0 1 Choke throttle valve 5 64525.003 $ 0 2 Choke plate fixing screw 6 10015.274 $ 7.8 1 Choke shaft 7 10140.501 $ 1 1 Locking Ring 8 41565.008 $ 0.8 1 O ring 9 55510.034 $ 0.4 2 Lock Washer 10 64700.001 $ 5 2 Fixing Screw 11 52135.018 $ 3 1 Dust seal plate 12 61070.002 $ 3 1 Dust seal plug 13 57804.446 $ 0 1 Auto Choke Assy. Including 14 64560.004 $ 0 3 — Diaphragm cover fixing screw 15 64595.005 $ 5.8 1 — Diaphragm adjusting screw 16 32384.060 $ 0 1 — Diaphragm cover 17 47600.229 $ 0 1 — Diaphragm loading spring 18 47407.226 $ 0 1 — Choke diaphragm 19 47605.030 $ 0 1 - Return Spring 20 41640.052 $ 3 1 Auto Choke Body Gasket 21 57804.483 $ 0 1 Autochoke Thermostat 22 52135.029 $ 2.4 1 Choke Lock Ring 23 64615.004 $ 0 3 Screw 24 52570.006 $ 6.5 1 Idling jet holder 25 41565.002 $ 0.4 1 Idle jet holder O Ring seal 26 74403.060 $ 3 1 Secondary idle jet 27 64700.010 $ 0 2 Fixing Screw 28 55510.038 $ 0 2 Lock Washer 29 31800.027 $ 0 1 Capsula minimo accelerato 30 - $ 0 1 Carburetor Body 31 47600.007 $ 2.3 1 Idle Screw Spring 32 64625.012 $ 6.5 1 Throttle Adjustment Screw 33 64595.013 $ 0 1 Secondary throttle adjusting screw 34 67016.092 $ 0 1 Carburettor shaft base. including: 35 10000.264 $ 0 1 Primary Throttle Shaft 36 41575.010 $ 3.2 1 Bushing 37 10015.273 $ 0 1 Secondary Throttle Shaft 38 64005.113 $ 0 2 — Throttle valve 39 64520.027 $ 0.6 4 Throttle plate screw 40 45048.124 $ 0 1 Throttle control lever 41 64595.035 $ 0 1 Throttles adjusting screw 42 34715.014 $ 1 1 Throttle Spindle Nut 43 55520.002 $ 1 1 Shaft Lock Tab 44 12775.092 $ 0 1 Boccola guida leva allentata 45 45069.092 $ 0 1 Lever 46 47610.175 $ 0 1 Molla leva allentata 47 47610.091 $ 0 1 Choke lever return spring 48 55555.019 $ 0.9 1 Shaft Spacer 49 41575.010 $ 3.2 2 Bushing 50 64700.016 $ 0 2 Fixing Screw 51 55510.018 $ 0 2 Lock Washer 52 61075.013 $ 4 1 Idle mixture tamper proof plug 53 64750.080 $ 0 1 Idle Mixture Screw 54 41565.010 $ 0 1 Idle Mixture Screw O Ring 55 39152.015 $ 0 1 Base Spacer Heat Gasket 56 43914.060 $ 0 1 Idle Cut Off Solenoid 57 55530.020 $ 0 1 — Rosetta ondulata 58 74409.060 $ 3 1 — Idle jet 59 41535.024 $ 0 1 Guarnizione Intercettatore minimo 60 34710.003 $ 1 1 Throttle Shaft Nut 61 55520.004 $ 1 1 Throttle Shaft Lock Washer 62 14850.140 $ 0 1 Pump Cam 63 12750.103 $ 0 1 Boccola distanziale leva allentata 64 55530.014 $ 0 1 Rosetta ondulata leva allentata minimo accel. 65 45067.048 $ 0 1 Leva allentata comando mimmo accelerato 66 10140.304 $ 0 1 Anello elastico ritegno leva allentata 67 55510.081 $ 1.2 1 Washer For Shaft 68 55525.001 $ 0 1 Spring Washer 69 34705.001 $ 0.8 1 Secondary shaft fixing nut 70 47600.092 $ 0 1 Pump Spring 71 47407.146 $ 0 1 Pump diaphragm 72 32486.084 $ 0 1 Accelerator Pump Cover 73 64565.001 $ 0 2 Screw 74 64700.019 $ 0 2 Pump Cover Screw 75 34715.003 $ 0 1 Nut 76 32240.501 $ 0 1 Interruttore unipolare 77 14975.081 $ 0 1 Cavo unipolare 78 58510.008 $ 0 1 Staffa interruttore 79 47407.182 $ 0 1 Membrana valvola piena potenza 80 47600.005 $ 3.5 1 Starter Valve Spring 81 32384.046 $ 0 1 Coperchio valvola piena potenza 82 64565.001 $ 0 3 Screw 83 64565.001 $ 0 4 Screw 84 52000.015 $ 1.1 1 Float pivot 85 32484.044 $ 0 1 Coperchio pompa pneumatica 86 47600.279 $ 0 1 Spring For Diaphragm 87 47407.163 $ 0 1 Membrana pompa pneumatica 88 73801.210 $ 3.7 1 Main jet 88 73801.140 $ 3 1 Main jet 89 61440.220 $ 9 1 Primary Emulsion Tube 89 61440.491 $ 0 1 Secondary Emulsion Tube 90 77201.160 $ 3 1 Secondary air correction jet 90 77201.170 $ 3 1 Primary Air Corrector Jet 91 76407.060 $ 13 1 Pump jet 92 41565.001 $ 0 1 Pump Jet ´O´ Ring 93 41565.008 $ 0.8 1 O ring 94 61075.002 $ 0 1 Tappo coperchio sgolfatore 95 70508.450 $ 0 1 Auxiliary Venturi Secondary 95 70508.450 $ 0 1 Auxiliary Venturi Primary 96 41705.072 $ 0 1 Top Cover Gasket 97 41015.004 $ 33.2 1 Float 98 79510.175 $ 0 1 Needle & Seat 99 83102.070 $ 1 1 Gasket for Needle Valve 100 43921.100 $ 0 1 Intercettatore ricircolo completo di: 101 55530.016 $ 0 1 — Wavy Washer 102 58000.019 $ 0 1 — Cup Washer 103 41565.001 $ 0 1 — Idle jet holder O Ring seal 104 74409.100 $ 3 1 — Idle jet 105 61002.019 $ 0 1 Fuel Filter Cover 1. Throttle nudger: On the XE/XF Falcons this is used to hold the throttle open slightly during an overrun condition by applying vacuum at the hose fitting. The screw in the top sets how much the throttle is held open. 2. Accelerator pump accumulator: Receives the fuel charge from the accelerator pump and controls the discharge rate of the fuel into the air stream. 3. Fuel inlet fitting. 4. Fuel filter plug. There is a small plastic filter under this plug. 5. Fuel return. On some models this is used to return fuel to the fuel tank when item 6 (below) is fitted. 6. Fuel return solenoid fitting. On some models there is a solenoid screwed into this fitting that energises when the throttle is closed, allowing fuel to return to the tank when at idle. 7. Idle solenoid. Allows fuel to flow in the idle circuit when this solenoid is energised. +12 Volts must be applied to this solenoid when the ignition is switched on. 8. Power bypass circuit actuator diaphragm. Allows fuel to flow in the power bypass circuit when low manifold vacuum is sensed. 9. Accelerator pump lever. 10. Electric automatic choke mechanism. Under the green plastic cover there is a heater element and a bi-metallic spring. +12 Volts is applied to the threaded stud in the centre when the ignition is on. The heater element heats up and in time, causes the bi-metallic spring to rotate the choke shaft, causing the choke to open. Loosening the three screws allows the cover to rotate, to adjust the choke to the correct fully open position after warm-up. 11. Fast idle screw. Adjusts the fast idle speed. Operates whenever the choke is partially closed. There are several steps of fast idle due to the operation of a stepped cam inside the choke mechanism. Adjustment should be made for fast idle on the first step after a cold start. Do not use this screw to adjust the normal idle speed. 12. Choke pull-off diaphragm. Cracks the choke open slightly as soon as the engine starts. Under the small brass plug at the centre there is a grub screw that adjusts how much the choke is cracked open. 13. Accelerator pump. Pumps fuel into the air stream, via the accelerator pump accumulator, during hard acceleration. 14. Idle speed screw. Adjusts the idle speed. To be adjusted only after the engine has reached operating temperature, and the choke is fully open. 15. Vacuum advance connection. Connects to the distributor vacuum advance diaphragm. 16. Idle mixture screw. Adjusts the idle fuel/air mixture. Stock jetting for 3.3l and 4.1l Crossflow Weber 34adm carburettor- First stage Idle: 60 Second stage Idle: 70 Primary Fuel: 135 Secondary Fuel: 210 Primary Air: 160 Secondary Air: 160 The following jetting, apparently gives excellent throttle response, very smooth idling and excellent pickup on secondaries - (stock 3.3l Crossflow Motor) Primary Idle: 65 Secondary Idle: 75 Primary Fuel: 140 Secondary Fuel: 220 Primary Air: 160 Secondary Air: 180 DIS-ASSEMBLY AND REBUILD INFORMATION - https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/75342-weber-34-adm-carb-conversion-info/ Weber 34ADM carburettors, have a 2 stage low speed jet solenoid. This was an emissions control system, which allowed the engine to run with one jet size when cold (70) and when the engine warmed up it switched to a smaller jet to reduce emissions (55). As the idle jet vacuum solenoid ages, the little diaphragm inside fails allowing - fuel to flow from the primary low speed circuit through the failed solenoid and into the line that supplies vacuum to the system. This causes the engine to run super rich. Products which can solve the problem can be found at the below links, comprising of a larger jet holder, which deletes the solenoid and the appropriate jets to go with it. You may need to mess around with the jets to find the right one for your engine https://www.weberperformance.com.au/product_info.php?cPath=6_268&products_id=631 https://www.weberperformance.com.au/product_info.php?cPath=6_268&products_id=1345 Here is a picture of the system on the standard carb and of another of the carb, with the idle jet solenoid system deleted. You will note all the vacuum ports except the vacuum advance are capped off, deleting the emissions control systems (EGR etc). This pic shows the throttle nudger, which is supposed to hold the throttle slightly open momentarily if the throttle is snapped shut suddenly to smooth things out. On some models it may also have been supplied vacuum as an idle up system for air con etc. The diaphragm can fail and cause a vacuum leak and most of the carb rebuild kits don't include this particular diaphragm. The vacuum port for the power valve is in an odd place on these carbs and some off the shelf adaptor plates will blank it off causing the engine to run on the power valve all the time and run very rich. The port is actually under the base plate and is not open to either of the carb barrels. If this port is omitted, vacuum will not be supplied to the power valve or the accelerator pump boost diaphragm and the carb simply wont work properly. If you look at the underside of the carb you will find the port (it might even be blocked with crud). The port is located between the primary and secondary bores and continues up through base and into a tube in the carb body. The tube also acts as a locating dowel and can sometimes become damaged and obstructed if the carb hasn't been assembled correctly at some stage in the past. Further useful info can be found here - http://www.mbs.id.au/tuning/Carburettors/Weber/34ADM.htm There are five springs in total fitted in this carb. By process of elimination you can work out several of them but some are interchangable and if fitted incorrectly will cause mixture problems. So keep the springs with their correct counterpart. Shown are the vacuum passages to the power valve diaphragm and the boost accelerator pump. When vacuum drops to a pre-determined level the power valve diaphragm is pushed into the power jet which opens the ball to allow more fuel into the main circuit. Also the loss of vacuum applies an extra amount of fuel to the accelerator pump circuit over and above what the accelerator pump diaphragm will deliver. This will usually occur when the second barrel is opened suddenly. The different spring length & tension will operate these devices at differing vacuum settings. The vacuum to the power valve & accelerator pump boost diaphragms is supplied through this tube. The vacuum port continues down through to the base of the carb between the primary and secondary bores. The tube also acts as a location dowel. It is long enough to pass through the thick gasket and into the base. Now what can happen is that if you don't line up the dowel perfectly to the base and you attempt to tighten the base screws then the tube can be pushed further into its bore in the body of the carb. The end result is a blocked vacuum passage. This will result in a rich cruise mixer and a hesitation when the second barrel opens suddenly. To check that the passage is unobstructed, place you mouth on the tube and suck or attach a tight hose and suck on it. It should feel easy to suck through. If not then this is what needs to be done. Remove the tube and the easiest way to do this is to stick a drill into the tube, then use a small pair of vice grips to grip it and twist it out. Cut a slot into the tube and then refit it back into the hole. Make sure the slot lines up with the vacuum passage and the tube protrudes through the thick gasket so it can line up with the base. The slot does not have to be as long as in the photo. If the tube is fitted at the correct depth, this mod would be unnecessary. REBUILD KIT LINKS - https://www.ebay.ca/itm/FORD-FALCON-WEBER-34-ADM-SERVICE-KIT/264174927546?epid=2102017418&hash=item3d820d7eba:g:kYYAAOSwFV9X1ukr https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/WEBER-34-ADM-CARBURETTOR-SERVICE-KIT-FORD-FALCON-3-3-4-1/201732658915?hash=item2ef83416e3:g:RbgAAOSwa~BYPWPJ https://www.meat-doria.com/en/product_meat/W552.1 https://www.meat-doria.com/en/product_meat/W552 Flow testing a stock 34adm carburettor

The last x-series alignment I had done, was after hrs, by an old school mechanic I'd done some electrical work for. First thing he did, was check that stuff, and found I needed new upper ball joints. A few yrs ago, I bought an injector reco/test flow bench machine from a carby guru in Seaford. He looked about that age - semi-retired, as he said he'd recently become ill with the big C. Exposure to fuel or cleaning chemicals maybe? My retired mechanic uncle, died a very similar way a few yrs ago - often called mechanics disease apparently.

I vote for PDR (paintless dent removal) also. It's the least involved, and usually avoids re-painting - which can open a can of worms. Skilled PDR technicians, can work miracles!

Keep us all posted, I for one am keen to see what's causing the issue!

They've probably forgotten what a 34ADM even is... I've encountered this before, with other 'old school' automotive things. Similar to how most wheel alignment places, have forgotten how to align x-series.

At around $1,200.00 for a brand new copper/brass x-series radiator... your one is infinitely rebuildable. Think like Grandad's axe - end tanks can be un-soldered and the core cleaned out, (re-cored if needed) many times over. Much MUCH cheaper than $1.2k.

Maybe be the parts cannon, has misfired somewhere? Starting a fresh, definitely sounds like the way to go...

U can get correct reproduction transmission tunnel Hex head self tappers on ebay I think? From factory, I think the 'screwed down' tunnels, were sealed with a black non-curing butyl sealer - ie, windscreen sealant.

When I got my first XF wagon (with original Garden State Plates), they were deteriorating same as your picture - from the lower edge, up. To preserve them, I first cleaned them, then sprayed a clear over the top, then re-mounted them with a clear number plate protector. Doing that, stopped any further deterioration.

If the number plates/vehicle are sentimental for @BDuck, I personally would strongly suggest do not let them out of your sight. Certainly don't post them anywhere, or allow Vicroads to handle them, or leave them with any third party. You'd just as likely end up with the plates getting 'lost' and shredded - (as per most returned plates, to my knowledge), due to a 'communication error'.

There is an Aussie numberplate collectors forum - www.plateshed.com I'd probably ask them. Reproducing the reflective background, is the most challenging. To my knowledge, the letters/numbers were coloured green, via screen-printing applied paint. I've also heard there are a few old number plate press machines around - used for creating 'movie reproduction' plates. If u can prove u own a certain combo, I've also heard certain owners of said machines may press a 'movie reproduction' plate for people, who may wish to have a vehicle used in a 'film production'. Even if Vicroads would reproduce initial's style number plates with the Garden State slogan, their reproductions are quite frankly... crap. The letter/number font is not era correct at all nor is the letter/number placement, nor the green colour and the 'Garden State' slogan is printed on, rather than embossed/screen-print highlighted. IMO, as expensive as they are, Vicroads should at least try to get them accurate. Same with using the original combination plates, on club permits - as they allow in QLD and WA _______________________________________________________________________________________________ Who makes number plates in Victoria? Victorian registration plates are manufactured at Hopkins Correctional Centre in Ararat, Victoria. Vehicle registration plates of Victoria - Wikipedia

At this stage of the game, an oscilloscope is likely needed, to track down the culprit. U probably need to look at ignition waveforms, sensor output waveforms, etc. I'd also check the alternator, for excessive AC interference from failing diodes. (temporarily unplugging it, should do the trick)

A leakdown and compression test should show any mechanical faults? Check for cruise control or brake light switch issues also. Single cyl misfire, could be an Crank angle sensor or harmonic balancer tone wheel issue? Possibly a faulty cam sensor.

Was it cylinder's 1 and 4 missing all along, rather than 1 and 6? Rather than cut any wires, just withdraw that pin from the ECU plug, (de-pin) then put some heatshrink over the bare pin, and tape it out of the way. If u need to reinstate it later, then just click the pin back into it's spot. I'd verify wheel speed sensor outputs. Something has changed all of a sudden - maybe ran over something and damaged an ABS sensor wire, or metal debri on the sensor face/magnet? Were new front wheel bearings/tone ring assemblies recently installed?