SPArKy_Dave

And maybe RFI shielded ECU.

Factory ABS and Airbag, and Column shift auto with Bucket seats.

Came across this on FB - https://www.facebook.com/groups/759597470728497/permalink/1095583497129891/ Thought I recognised the business name.... Jeezus. LOL! Then I found this on FB - <iframe src="https://www.facebook.com/plugins/post.php?href=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.facebook.com%2Firs2009%2Fposts%2F10153107713581482%3A0&width=500" width="500" height="554" style="border:none;overflow:hidden" scrolling="no" frameborder="0" allowTransparency="true"></iframe> I hope you weren't sold a stolen Effie dude....

Are SPOOL rods made in China?

And get the injectors flowed and ultrasonically cleaned. (or replace them with new injectors) If you replace the O2 sensor, only use NGK brand. NGK is the Ford OEM supplier. Other club members have tried other brands, and found them to fail after a short while.

There's a thread in the center hex shaped hole. That's what's used to pull/press the pulley off and on.

Lol, wait till you have a VS commodore 304 V8 pulley - they don't have the collar to grab onto.

If I remember rightly, in XG's, the ECU temp sensor, is the two wire sensor on the side of thermostat housing with the plug like an injector on the later e-series/XH, and a round USA style sensor plug on the earlier ones/XG. Usually around $15.00 to buy new from Bursons, Repco or similar (for the later ones at least). The gauge sender, is a single wire sensor with a spade terminal.

You forgot to say Wankpuffin.....

I'm leaving this convo alone......... wankpuffin... LOL!

Is the rim spot welded or riveted together?

From factory, XF's only have a filter sock on the end of the tank pickup, and a tiny gauze sleeve in the carby behind the hard-line inlet fitting. Anything else, is either dealer fitted, or aftermarket. (not sure on EFI crossflows)

Yep, the code could be under the tyre. The early steel bands had the date codes there. The later wheels had them near the valve stem, along with the wheel size.

Looks like a small center hub. There will be a date code on the wheel.

I'd go looking at ECU things which have direct 12volts to them - the Gas Controller (which cuts the injectors). Coil pack feed. Not any of the 5v ground side switched sensors.

BBM sensor, Evap Canister solenoid, Injectors, ISC, TFI/Coil pack, and some of the ecu including KAM.

Whose Graham?

The engine fuse blowing is usually the fuel pump and/or fuel pump wiring shorted, Often, the wiring will melt and short out, where it runs above the tail pipe behind the rear bumper. (stupid design) Is it dual fuel? Which fuel is it running on? The Fuel Pump is ground side switched with the relay from memory - ie, it will still short out, even with the relay unplugged. I'd be checking the Fuel Pump and it's wiring first. The engine fuse also powers (indirectly), the Aircon compressor, via the a/c pressure switch/ magnetic clutch. BBM sensor, Evap Canister solenoid, Injectors, ISC, TFI/Coil pack, and some of the ecu including KAM.

My gut instinct says too much. Which means a new crush tube. You need to paint the crown wheel teeth, and check the mesh/contact pattern (as well as check for pinion endfloat).

Incorrect pinion pre-load would be my first guess.

Brake light switch - on the brake pedal.

COMPARISON -

AFTER

This thread is lacking Dean's comparison pics, from when he had a set of reflectors done - BEFORE -