SPArKy_Dave

I reckon Matt would know someone with a Car-o-liner or similar chassis jig, for that portion of the job. You could always just get a payout from the insurance co, and use the money to get it repaired yourself, how you want it done. What do Shannons currently value it at - $10k?

My suggestion would be Matt's shop in Bayswater, where you took Gerrys coupe. I reckon the wags would be safe there and in good hands, with Rod and Matt on the case. You have choice of repairer anyways don't you? And btw.... that's terrible, how on earth did someone run into it? You hardly drive the thing nowadays. I'm feeling sad for you dude.

They don't sound the same though...

You have to go on their waiting list. email TMeyer direct. They're doing the aluminum ones atm, then the iron blocks next yr. You get to choose whatever casting date you want your block to have, too - for concours purposes. I believe they have an Aussie distributor already earmarked, but can't remember who it is.

The Track Boss Clevo is 100% made (cast) and machined in the USA. Yeah, I guess it's also the stigma. I hate what the chinese are doing to our country, with a passion - buying everything up, inflating housing costs etc. Call it a moral standing. It's also cool that the Track Boss Clevo is the same price, if not a little bit cheaper, than the chinese Arrow Block.

The Arrow block is chinese cast. I don't know that I trust their steel. Look up the TMeyer Inc. Track Boss Cleveland block. That's the Tod Buttermore block, finally being put into production.

What happens if someone should have a Clevo block with a late 73 casting date, but no engine number? And normal un-marked rough casting, where an engine number would normally be?

I thought the letters started at A for February? Or maybe that was just for USA castings?

My suggestion, would likely be failing capacitors, causing transistors to struggle to turn on. In anything that old, and electronic, the caps will be weak. If you get an ESR tester, you can test them all in situ, to confirm if they're outside specs or not.

It kinda sounds like a screeching bearing to me.

Suction goes to the firewall, and discharge goes to the condensor, in front of the radiator.

Compressors have a vacuum (suction) port, and a pressure (discharge) port. The hoses definitely need to be around the right way.

Did I read that you're using the 6cyl compressor on the Clevo? Remember that the compressor Suction and Discharge ports can be opposite on the V8's, compared to the 6cyl's. I have an account at Cooldrive Distribution (aircon wholesaler) In the catalogue, there are two separate listings. XA-XE 6cyl - CM1924 - RH Suction port XD-XE V8 - CM1237 - LH Suction port Interestingly though, the catalogue lists CM1924 as suitable for ZH/ZK and FD LTD V8's, but also states RH Suction. In the Adrad Catalogue I have, the part numbers are as follows - PYOR014 (ref CM1924) York Compressor 169cc capacity PYOR004 (ref CM1237) York Compressor 169cc capacity

If it were me, I'd take the radiator out, and get it cleaned out by a radiator shop. That'd be the next easiest and cheapest thing to try. Have you been running coolant in it, or just water?

If the dizzy is failing (PIP sensor or TFI) and mucking around with the ignition timing, that'll make the Windsors run hot too. Does it ping under 3/4 acceleration? Does it get hot after a run, then cool down if you sit with it idling? Or does it get hot just while idling, then cool down if you go for a drive?

Welcome to the Club dude! Going by your description, I'd probably try a different set of wheels all together first, then go after things like a worn bush in the trans extension housing, uni joint and/or tailshaft balance issues, etc. If you get a chance, start a project and/or showroom thread on your beast. It sounds pretty cool, and while I can't speak for others I reckon we'd all like to see some pics of it.

I wonder if those pistons are re-boxed ACL or some other brand? Or if Silvolite actually produce them? I can't imagine there'd be much call for them in the US.

Why not ask about tyres for the original wheels too, then make your choice from there?

I'd like to see what it looks like with the 12inch wheels/caps at the lowered height.

I think Bridgestone did a run of S340 Eagers recently in some 14' sizes. They're a nice looking tyre too.

I believe all or some of it ended up at Newcom Industries. Maybe enquire with them?

If it were me, I'd try and buy the whole Panelvan. An April 99 XH panno, is the cream of the crop IMO. Factory Hybrid OHC, Central Locking, Tubliner, Silver Sunraysia wheels. As new as you'll ever get, in a Falcon panelvan.

I also thought the boxes are all the same internally. I'll ask old Gaz. He used to work at KirbyBishop/TRW/Reliable Rack and Pinion - where these things were made. I always thought the assistance level, would be governed by the pressure valve, in the back of the power steering pump, behind the high pressure line output. XD's and early XE's, ran the C2 pump from factory also. Those may have offered less hydraulic assistance?

A loose copy of Pedders maybe, but definitely not Billies or Koni. I'd lose the Ultima's sooner rather than later, if you can afford it. They may be short stroke, but they're certainly not short body shocks like Koni's are. You really need short body shocks.

I've never experienced Bilsteins, but Koni's ride so sublime, compared to anything in the Monroe/KYB/Ultima ballpark.