SPArKy_Dave

They look like 18x8 pre-au copies, of the BA GTP 19x8 wheels. I dunno if the chinese copy wheels were date coded, but they were popular around 8-10yrs ago.

Short answer, is yes you can.

Yeah, check out Ants XE ute project - you can change the lock to an XE/XF one if that's what you want. Or just keep the tibbe keys, and put and XF contact set on the back of the ignition lock. (plugs may even be the same?)

The column has to be lengthened for non-power steering from memory. You can slide the two halves apart, as they are a slip joint. (quite tough to do though)

From memory, AU went back to smaller valves, but had a better head casting.

I have a couple of suggestions - Could you get the acrylic rings made out of black acrylic? So that way, there's no paint to chip off. Also, is it worth fitting counter sunk screws to the ring instead, so it has even more clearance to the winder? (black zinc coated countersunk screws)

If the indicators are dodgy, it will be caused by the contacts in the Hazard light switch. The indicator wiring goes via the hazard light switch. Fix the problem, by simply toggling the hazard light switch in and out a few dozen times in rapid succession. Doing that, has the effect of scraping off the corrosion from the internal contacts. Important Tip - if you ever come across a situation where the Left and/or Right indicators are flashing rapidly, but all the globes are fine... Look to see if you have a factory fitted trailer plug. The factory fitted plugs have an internal resistor, with a bridging contact in the flap of the trailer plug. This was to allow a higher rated analogue flasher can (for the extra load of trailer lights), while still retaining normal flashing rates with and without a trailer connected. If the Left and/or right resistors are not in the circuit without a trailer connected, (via the contacts on the trailer plug flap) whichever side is dodgy, will have fast flashing indicators. Cleaning the contacts in the trailer plug flap, will solve that issue. Modern electronic flasher cans, can self regulate with varying load, so from the late 80's onwards, there are no resistors in the factory trailer plugs.

You're right, I don't think many (if any) people do the shimming thing. Most would just re-use the existing shims as fitted to the rocker arm from factory. If the cam is not a re-ground on, done on a smaller base circle, the shims shouldn't need to be altered. Most people bleed down those HLA lifters using a soft jaw vice, while they're out of the arm. But truth be told, HLA's shouldn't need bleeding down if they're new, and/or if you've taken out the originals, then stripped them down and cleaned them. with no oil in them, they have only the tension of their internal spring, to resist compressing them.

195/75/14 is the standard S-pack size, (or 205/70/14) but as everyone is saying, you'll find 215/65/14's infinitely easier and cheaper to get these days. It's actually quite hard to find decent 14 inch tyres in any size these days.

Should we be flagging this thread as NSFW?...

I thought about directing people to your workshop thread. I've suggested to one bloke who PM'd me directly, to check it out. But this is your show, and I didn't want to overstep the mark. I wanted to seek permission first, so as not to do the wrong thing.

I think $150 is a good starting point... seems to be a fair price, as it's attracted reasonable interest right off the bat.

There seems to be a healthy amount of interest, just from the basic info I put in the FB post. Over a dozen people interested at this stage, with a couple wanting to make contact for panels right away. Shall I direct them here, give them a phone number, email? What do you want to do?

I'll put them up now, on the XK-XP facebook page, and see if you get any bites.

Oooh, that's some good info there!

Have you got any of those massive suction cups?

I must say, I'm a tad disappointed. I saw the thread title and expected..... err... something else. Never mind, carry on peoples, as you were.

Did you make sure the torque converter is engaged with the transmission pump correctly? There are several stages of engagement, and it often requires rotating the torque converter back and forth on the transmission input shaft, to get it to click home correctly. At the risk of stating the obvious - that's why you always fit the converter to the transmission first, then offer the trans/converter assembly to the engine.

I concur good sir.

Might need a thicker slab for that... unless you go 4 poster.

Should be good practice for removing more glass on the wagon..... or visa versa.

I would suggest to use a Claybar, or Clay towel, to decontaminate the paintwork first.

Or even Gaz branded Adjustable shock absorbers for Mustangs. http://www.gazclassicshocks.co.nz/apps/webstore/products/show/6753893

Why not go Koni or Bilstein? I know Mustang rear shocks, are shorter than the Falcon equivalent. That's what I bought in Koni reds, for my XG ute.