SPArKy_Dave

Looks awesome mate, crystal clear resolution... nice work!

As with the Weber book, the new page scan here, is much clearer and easier to read, compared with the originals.

Page 8, is extremely clear and easy to read, compared with all the other original scanned pages. Can you re-scan them all?

That'd be awesome mate! Btw, there appears to be x2 page no.2 in there as well.

@Mr Polson, any chance you could scan in that page number 8 from the Weber Manual, that was missed originally? Also, there appears to be x2 page no.9 and x2 page no.13's

TMeyer Track Boss thermostats are the best on the market atm, for 302/351C, plus 351M/400 engines. Might be cheaper to purchase direct from TMeyer themselves, if you can wait for shipping. https://www.custommustangs.com.au/correct-cleveland-style-thermostat-180-degree-302c https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Track-Boss-351-Thermostat-351c-Cleveland-Mustang-1970-1971-1972-1973-Mach-1-Ford/283549738162?hash=item4204e1a4b2:g:NXgAAOSwgD9cnEyS Dayco DT66A is similar, but apparently crap quality now. They used to be supplied from the same mob who make the TrackBoss/Robert Shaw ones - Caltherm in the USA (previously called Robert Shaw Controls, then Cooper Standard Automotive) http://caltherm.herodev.com/thermostatic-solutions/balanced-flow.php Here's some other part numbers for Cleveland specific thermostats - Stant 180 29468 Cleveland specific; this is the one I used Stant 192 29469 Cleveland specific Stant 180 13468 Cleveland specific Stant 192 13469 Cleveland specific Stant 192 S-346-192 Gates 180 33128 Cleveland specific Gates 192 33129 Cleveland specific RobertShaw 180 333-180 Cleveland specific Ford/Motorcraft 180 RT-310 Cleveland specific Ford/Motorcraft 192 RT-139 Cleveland specific; 70-73 351C,351CJ, & Boss 351 Ford 180 D7PZ-8575-A Cleveland specific Napa 180 197 Cleveland specific

Go direct to the TMeyer website, and the Made in USA Track Boss thermostats are $32.00 USD. The current crappy exchange rate, is probably bumping up the local prices? $100 is still cheap insurance against engine damage, IMO.

Good lord old chap!... I must say, reading that did set the ticker pounding... jolly good show.

Can you still get Smiths gauges?... they'd go nicely with the whole British/ XJ6 theme, etc?

I once helped my uncle convert an S1 XJ12, to Chev V8. So to be fair on Polson... you never know. 

I like the bit about there being no rust... that's the best part.

Looks like the factory stat, had a bleed notch on the inner moveable section? I've never looked closely at that part, tbh. I've got a Nissan XFN factory workshop manual, and it shows that same notch. My blue XE wagon, had an aftermarket e-series thermostat in it for some reason? (with the extra bypass spring foot thingy and a bleed hole manually drilled in it) I only found out, as it wasn't getting up to temp. When I investigated, I found the thermostat was stuck open, with what looks like a tiny piece of casting metal/slag from the block. After going through a couple of dud Tridon thermostats (sticking when opening, opening early/late, etc), I decided to buy a Windsor V8 Motorcraft stat for the XE instead, as they're the same dimensions/temp rating (except have a jiggle pin). Last time I bought Tridon ^^, they were re-boxed MotoRad stats - made in India I thought (could be wrong)...

The little plastic/brass thingy, is called a jiggle pin. I believe it's to help break up any large air bubbles, when bleeding the coolant system. To my knowledge, the factory crossflow thermostats didn't run a hole or jiggle pin. The top thermostat housing bolt with the center bleeder screw, provided that function. Factory fitted e-series 6cyl thermostats were 92c, made in UK by Waxstat, and had a jiggle pin. The current e-series 'genuine' thermostats, are 91c, and don't have a jiggle pin nor hole - bad idea IMO, as they don't have a bleeder screw. The factory e-series V8 thermostats (Motorcraft, made in USA etc) are rated at 89c and have a jiggle pin, as they don't have a bleeder screw in the cooling system either.

I really don't know what a sorted 383ci combo is capable of tbh, but I'd assume circa 450hp? IMO, it needs to be a torque monster, rather than an RPM queen. I'm not sure yet, if the manifold is single or dual plane. From what I can gather, the engine was built about 12yrs prior - from a couple of owners ago... Nick tried to get build info when he bought it 4yrs back, but the previous owner knew nothing, nor had the details of the owner before that. My next task, is to suss out the cam... it sounds cammed, but again - no info. I pulled a rocker cover off last weekend, and it has standard rocker gear, but appears to have better than stock springs - spring/damper. The compression does have me slightly concerned... at idle, it fumes out the oil cap, like a mini steam-train. Nick had a catch can fitted by his normal mechanic - which is open to atmosphere, with a hose going to each rocker cover. (no PCV, and second hose in place of oil cap) His mechanic recently gave up on the vehicle, suggesting he find a Ford guru, and saying they're only good with newer vehicles. My name got suggested somewhere through the grape-vine, and here we are. I went over the whole vehicle last weekend, and honestly it's a basket case... Steering and suspension issues, leaking brake master cyl, worn front hub bearings, the engine issues and more. A succession of poor quality parts, dodgy workmanship plus normal wear and tear. Being a 4x4 F-truck, its still worth repairing, IMO.

@CHESTNUTXE, I'm at the beginning of resurrecting a Cleveland in an F-truck, which is running poorly. you may be able to offer some advice? Nick the owner (a family friend) knows nothing about the build. It's in a late 70's F150 4x4, with 4 spd manual F-truck gearbox/transfer case. The engine runs straight LPG, with twin Impco 225 gas converters, on a high rise AFR intake manifold. I can't find any info, on the intake manifold though? The exhaust comprises of Genie 4-2-1 Stainless Steel extractors, 2.5inch collectors, no cross-over pipe, and one chambered muffler on each pipe, with short downturns under the tray, prior to the rear diff. Last weekend, I did a compression test, and measured the piston stroke It's a 3.750 stroke. The dry compression varies wildly, from 180, down to 150psi, and jumps to 250-ish PSI, wet. It has a Scorcher distributor in it, (timing unknown atm, but vac advance is blocked off) Spark plugs are NGK BP5FS's. It's very down on power, IMO - feels like mid 250-ish hp, if not less. Suggestions? Reckon I should start a separate thread?

2K5 = 5/10/72 (or 82) casting date code.

There must be a mob over there who make the stickers - like our Grafix Unlimited? If you found out who it is, maybe they could add your one, to their catalogue?

Date code on the distributor - 1E24 = 24/05/71

Engine block date-code 1M18 = 18/12/71

1E13 = date code = 13/05/71

Ford Emissions decals? - http://perogie.com/perogie_117.htm

The Bosch Alternator date-code (923) = March 1979 Like the engine block etc, the water pump should have a date-code, near the CF logo - a number/letter/number, for year/month/day - ie, 9C09 = 09/03/79, and so-on. A = Jan B = Feb... the letter I, is not used - being too similar to a 1. L = Nov M = Dec The cast iron intake and exhaust manifolds, should have a date-code on them too, same configuration as the engine block and water pump.

Any more pics of the pitman arm reco? Btw, I like the offset bench vice! very cool.

How did you retain the roller cross-shaft in position (originally held in with the ball bearing)? In the ones I've played with, I tapped and threaded/loctited a tiny allen key grub screw, in place of the ball. I found that if they're still running the bronze top bush, the worm drive follower/roller bearings are usually gummed up solid, with tiny bronze chips, from the worn bush - stopping the roller from rotating. I've never been successful freeing them up, without fully disassembling the sector shaft as you did.

If it has a factory option trailer plug fitted, they usually have resistive bridge terminals in the cap, to allow for correct flashing, with/without trailer lights. If the cap terminals are not contacting correctly, it will make the left or right indicators flash fast.