SPArKy_Dave

If possible, I'd pump some fuel into a clear container, let it sit for a while, then look for a water line.

Thats the engine computer - ecu. The smartlock BCM is on the drivers side - right near the steering column, but up high. It's Brown on base model XH's from memory.

XE headlight clips, are same as used in WB Holden headlights from memory.

Jumper the relay, to provide power to the pump - see if it's a bad pump, or relay. From memory, the FP relay is located top RH side of engine bay.

They're inside the BCM/smartlock module, which lives up under the dash near the handbrake. It's easier to confirm injector pulse when cranking - use a noid light or other 12volt test light.

Fuel, Air, Spark and Compression. Check them off the list, and it should run. Oxidised Smartlock/BCM relay contacts can affect the ECU's ability to fire the injectors. Check with a noid light, while cranking.

Found a safe DIY method, for basic leak testing of Injectors - Connect compressed air, set at normal fuel pump supply pressure (often 40-60 psi) Leave for a few hrs, and results should show.

Example - Drive gear = 6 teeth (common on C6 Transmissions) Gear ratio = 3.45:1 Tyre Rev per mile = 786.89 Divide by 1001  6 x 3.45 x 786.89 / 1001 = 16.27 Teeth 

The worm drive, looks like it's machined into the output shaft, on that transmission? I'd try a driven gear with less teeth, to speed it up? Driven Gear Teeth = Drive Gear Teeth x Gear Ratio x Tyre Revolutions per mile, divided by 1001. Tyre Revolutions per mile = 20,168 divided by Tyre Diameter in Inches Tyre Diameter in Inches = (section width x aspect ratio divided by 2540x2 + Wheel Diameter Example - 225 x 60/2540 x2 + 15 = 25.63 20,168 / 25.63 = 786.89 Example - Drive gear = 6 teeth (common on C6 Transmissions) Gear ratio = 2.92:1 Tyre Rev per mile = 786.89 Divide by 1001 6 x 2.92 x 786.89 / 1001 = 13.77 Teeth Smallest you can get is 16teeth I think? So it will probably be out about 10km/hr, but heaps better.

I would start pulling some fuses, to locate which circuit is causing the current draw. As with all modern vehicles, the immobiliser and other various devices, will flatten even the best battery after a few weeks or so of sitting. That's what happened with my BF wagon, when we were in self-isolation, only going out for essentials/food etc. My x-series, hold a battery charge for months, without being started or driven.

Does the spare XG Outback, still have the original shock absorbers in it? Could you remove them for pics, to add into this thread?

@Outback Jack, I found some old pics of NOS HD Motorcraft shock absorbers... They might be handy to have in this thread? Not sure if they're the same as the XG Outbacks, or just for XF/XG Country Pack optioned vehicles?

Thats awesome info mate. This thread deserves to be stickied to the top! See if you can maybe get the valving specs from Monroe, for those original discontinued T.V.E Outback shocks? People could then get Koni or Bilsteins set up, exactly as per the original units?

Yes I agree - not the solenoid, look further back into the circuit - Dodgy relay, dodgy ignition switch, partially blown fuse, loose connection, etc.

E-series have a micro-switch in the boot/liftgate latch mechanism from memory. XD-XF sedans have a push-button switch (same as the door switches) underneath one of the boot lid hinges.

High resistance connection somewhere in that circuit. It will support a low load - ie test light, but not high current - ie, starter solenoid.

If the dizzy isn't getting power, then the ECU won't fire the injectors. I'd be checking some powers and grounds in the engine bay personally. You may have accidently blown a main fuse?

Three of my pushrods, ended up a funny Z shape, just from starting it...

The blue wire, is for the Aircon compressor clutch. The alternator, looks like an EF/EL Mitsubishi one?

I'd suggest to get it driving with the Auto trans first, then plan for a Manual trans later on if the auto is no good. XF factory ULP (blue top) bosch injectors - 0280150726 - are 196cc/204g/min flow rate, with 14.5ohm resistance and the e-series - 0280150790 - injectors, are 191cc/149.7g/min and 15.9ohm resistance ie, the e-series injectors will make an XF run very slightly leaner, and the injectors will draw slightly less current. @Panko, could be why your wagon is more fuel efficient than most XF's? https://www.polog40.co.uk/article_injector_table.php http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tableifc.htm Aircon compressors are Sanden TRF90 I believe? (TR stands for Turbo Rotary scroll compressor) They can be used with R134a, but only with different oil, and a complete line/component flush out. I wouldn't convert it personally. It's far less work, to run the Hychill Minus30 refrigerant - which is quite close to the old R12, in pressure/temp operational properties. R134a, would also need a modern parallel flow condenser core (ie, from an XG ute/panelvan), to make the aircon work correctly. R12 only needed single flow condensers, as it is/was a better refrigerant. (ie, it's able to reject heat much faster, compared with R134a) R134a, also works at a higher pressure, thus loading the compressor, which will drain more engine power, compared with R12/Hychill. Here's an OzFalcon Aircon thread -

Could just be a loose/oxidised battery terminal and/or a loose/oxidised wire on the starter. I'd suggest to check those things first, and see how it goes.

The thermostat could be faulty? @CHESTNUTXE, got a faulty Dayco thermostat just recently.

I think that's a metallic colour - which the XG utes had? The Panelvan blue, was a solid sky blue colour.

Separate thread created... relevant posts moved from here - to this thread here.

Looks awesome mate, crystal clear resolution... nice work!