SPArKy_Dave

I got factory ceramic coated Pacemaker headers, for my XG some yrs ago. They're pretty fancy looking.

TBH, it should just work, with a key off/on reset, and maybe a battery reset. Also - check your wiring loom where it runs over the Aircon pipe, near the ECU in the engine bay. B-series are known for wearing right through the conduit covering, and damaging the wires. Especially ones with lots of km's/run-time, etc. It happens on the underside where you don't see - friction against the metal pipe.

Going by the fault-codes, it's most likely a wiring issue. Have a close look at the transmission wiring loom, from the engine bay, back to where it plugs into the transmission. It's only a short wiring loom, so will be easy to check. I'd say either the wiring has been damaged, a transmission loom plug is not seated correctly, or one of the plugs has a pin fitment issue.

You need 1,2,3,4 connected Pin no.5 is not needed. 1 and 2 is the relay coil - energised by the ignition circuit. 3 and 4, is the power from battery, and out to the fuel pump. If you haven't chopped any wiring yet, you can de-pin the plugs without cutting any wires - using a tiny screwdriver or connector de-pin tool. Then push the existing connector pins into the new plastic plug shell.

Some technical info, on sizing turbo's correctly. (credit goes to Garrett Turbochargers) Turbocharger TECH - wheel trim and housing Area/Ratio.

There may be some pin-out differences, between the EL and ED(XG) ECU. Have you tried re-fitting the original ECU? I would also double check you have the relay plug wired correctly. Sounds like you do, as the fuel pump primes. Start by determining what you're missing - ie, spark, or injector pulse. If the distributor is not sending a pulse to the ECU, it won't energise the injectors.

Check obvious things, like firing order maybe?

The map sensor has an electrical plug, and a vacuum line. I've found the vacuum line/s can sometimes come adrift from the manifold TEE, down low on the end of the log manifold. Did you check there too?

That's why Ford called them CenterFold bench seats! They have extremely comfy fold-down arm/elbow rests. The cushion/arm rest is also a nice handy grip, for when doing your typical x-series one handed steering - whilst going around corners at a brisk pace. I have x5 x-series with bench seat column auto. XF's have the comfiest bench seats, XG's are a bit firm, and XH's are an in-between.

Sounds like the MAP sensor may be un-hooked - lives near the coolant bottle/tank. LPG stalling like that, often means a vacuum leak.

I've always purposely bought column shift Auto x-series utes/panelvans. They are awesome! Column Auto, Bench Seat, Rubber floor mat.

I've always liked the LTD factory tinted tail lights. Which tyres did you choose?

My understanding, is that's correct operation for HEI coils. Coil dwell time is altered to reach the same coil current, no matter the rpm. https://www.autospeed.com/cms/a_113140/article

The GT40 coil has a primary resistance of about 3.4 ohms so doesn't require a ballast resistor and must get full battery voltage at all times. The GT40R coil has a lower primary resistance of about 1.4 ohms so must be used with a resistor, whether it's a ballast resistor or a factory resistance wire in the wiring harness. Points ignition systems, supply full battery voltage to the coil whilst cranking, and circa 9v to the coil whilst engine is running. This is to account for voltage drop during cranking, so a strong spark is provided, (and to limit current through the points, so they last longer). The resistance wire/ballast resistor, is often 1.6 - 1.8 ohms. The coil positive terminal, may have two wires running to it, through one connector - one supplies straight battery voltage ONLY when cranking, the other supplies 9v through the resistance wire (or ballast resistor), via the ign/run circuit. Electronic ignition conversions shouldn't be too fussed on voltages (12/9v), but the coil must suit the supply voltage configuration - ie, resistor or non-resistor type. However, some conversions, require a HEI coil - which has a very low internal resistance - circa 0.7ohms. Check what coil resistance, your electronic ignition system expects to see. A low resistance (High Energy Ignition) coil, will draw alot more current (circa 20A) so check existing wiring is suitable. My suggestion is (if possible) leave the wiring as is, and confirm the correct GT40R (resistor) coil is fitted, and will work happily with your conversion.  Coil dwell (aka charge time like a capacitor) also plays a big factor in correct operation. Electronic ign with short dwell-time, will not energise non-HEI coils correctly. Examples: GT40R, no ballast resistor… 14V / 1.4 ohms = 10 amps. (will overheat/fail) HEI coil, no ballast resistor… 14V / 0.7 ohms = 20 amps. GT40, no ballast resistor… 14V / 3.4 ohms = 4.1 amps. GT40R with 1.6 ohm ballast resistor… 14V / 3 ohms = 4.6 amps. GT40R with 1.6 ohm ballast resistor... 9V / 3 ohms = 3 amps. GT40 with 1.6 ohm ballast resistor... 14V / 5 ohms = 2.8 amps. (no good/weak spark) GT40 with 1.6 ohm ballast resistor... 9V / 5 ohms = 1.8 amps. (no good/weak spark) Part number Primary Primary Primary Turns Secondary Secondary Secondary Output KV Peak VOLTS Turns Ratio Ballast Short Resistance Inductance Resistance Inductance Turns 50pf/1 Meg Current resistance Order Ohms mH K Ohms Henries @ 100Hz Amps number 9 220 061 100 3.1-3.4 13.8 - 15.2 345 6.8-9.2 56.7 22200 26.3 3.4 12 64.3:1 SU120 9 220 061 308 3.2-3.5 14.0-15.5 345 8.0-10.0 68.8 24500 26.3 3.3 12 71:1 GT40 9 220 061 400 1.45-1.55 6.3-6.7 240 6.8-9.2 50 22200 32 5.24 9 92.5:1 1.5 SU120R 9 220 061 430 1.25-1.35 6.3-6.7 240 8.0-10.0 66.1 24500 29.1 3.7 9 102:1 1.8 GT40R

(info posted here, and to the below linked thread for ref) Points ignition systems, supply full battery voltage to the coil whilst cranking, and circa 9v to the coil whilst engine is running. This is to account for voltage drop during cranking, so a strong spark is provided, (and to limit current through the points, so they last longer). The resistance wire/ballast resistor, is often 1.6 - 1.8 ohms. The coil positive terminal, may have two wires running to it, through one connector - one supplies straight battery voltage ONLY when cranking, the other supplies 9v through the resistance wire (or ballast resistor), via the run/ign circuit. Electronic ignition conversions shouldn't be too fussed on voltages (12/9v), but the coil must suit the supply voltage configuration - ie, resistor or non-resistor type. Some conversions however, require a HEI coil - which has a very low internal resistance - circa 0.7ohms. Examples: GT40R, no ballast resistor… 14V / 1.4 ohms = 10 amps. HEI coil, no ballast resistor… 14V / 0.7 ohms = 20 amps. GT40, no ballast resistor… 14 / 3.4 ohms = 4.1 amps. GT40R with 1.6 ohm ballast resistor… 14 / 3 ohms = 4.6 amps. GT40 with 1.6 ohm ballast resistor... 14 / 5 ohms = 2.8 amps. (no good) Part number Primary Primary Primary Turns Secondary Secondary Secondary Output KV Peak VOLTS Turns Ratio Ballast Short Resistance Inductance Resistance Inductance Turns 50pf/1 Meg Current resistance Order Ohms mH K Ohms Henries @ 100Hz Amps number 9 220 061 100 3.1-3.4 13.8 - 15.2 345 6.8-9.2 56.7 22200 26.3 3.4 12 64.3:1 SU120 9 220 061 308 3.2-3.5 14.0-15.5 345 8.0-10.0 68.8 24500 26.3 3.3 12 71:1 GT40 9 220 061 400 1.45-1.55 6.3-6.7 240 6.8-9.2 50 22200 32 5.24 9 92.5:1 1.5 SU120R 9 220 061 430 1.25-1.35 6.3-6.7 240 8.0-10.0 66.1 24500 29.1 3.7 9 102:1 1.8 GT40R

Both Carby and EFI cams have the same lift = 235thou lobe lift - 406.55thou lift at the valve Carby = 2 degrees overlap EFI = 6 degrees overlap Carby intake duration - 214 degrees Carby exhaust duration - 218 degrees EFI intake duration - 224 degrees EFI exhaust duration - 212 degrees Carby LSA = 108 degrees EFI LSA = 109 degrees Crow cams standard EFI replacement cam, as per Dean's above post - Lobe lift - 253.76thou lobe lift - 439thou lift at the valve Intake duration - 260 (264 in old catalogue) degrees Exhaust duration - 260 (264 in old catalogue) degrees intake duration at 50thou valve lift - 197 (196 in old catalogue) exhaust duration at 50thou valve lift - 197 (196 in old catalogue) LSA = 109 degrees

PCV, EGR and blowby, are what soot's up the intake and contaminates the oil. A stuck open EGR will make a vehicle run lean/poorly. (normally only opens under load) A stuck closed PCV will pressurise the crankcase, causing oil leaks. The opposite of both will do nothing, except cause a slight rich condition with the EGR - if it's expecting exhaust gases in the intake under certain conditions. Charcoal canisters are just a storage tank for fuel vapours, so raw fuel doesn't get drawn directly into the engine, from the tank. The charcoal absorbs any raw fuel, which then slowly evaporates under manifold vacuum. A car that's tuned to expect fuel vapours under certain conditions, will run slightly lean without it. In this case, the carby is different from stock and tuned as such, so the presence or absence of a canister, shouldn't affect anything IMO. adr27a (emissions) was introduced 12/74. Before then, fuel tanks (via fuel cap) and oil caps vented direct to atmosphere. 12/74 onwards - fuel caps had one-way valves (air in only), to allow the charcoal canister evap vent/system to work.

Sucks when that happens. All told, it's probably better to happen on your watch, rather than a passenger doing it? I believe that colour is available (or an extremely close reproduction). It's the same as XB vinyl isn't it - Escorts being locally produced at the time? I've not long been through the entire vinyl catalogue, looking for a match to F-truck scheels. What about recaro's, done in original vinyl, or the RS Escort chocolate brown cordruoy material? (called Beta Cloth)

What ended up being wrong with the distributor?

Probably take the injectors out and have them cleaned, if they're all blocked up. Sitting them in solvent may have limited success, but won't clean them properly.

Could quite possibly be stuck injectors? You'd need to remove the fuel rail with everything connected, and see if they spray fuel whilst cranking. For the test, you'd need to put the end of all the injectors, in small containers, or ziplock bags or similar. If the LPG system is still safe and in good order, I'd try running it on that? LPG doesn't generally go off over time.

Start simple - use a noid light (or any 12v test light) and check for injector pulse whilst cranking. Take the fuel line off at the fuel rail, to see if the in-tank fuel pump is working while cranking. Check for spark while cranking. From what I can tell, there still isn't clear direction, to track down the fault.

What were the compression numbers?

Have you done a compression check on your current engine? Failing sensors, injectors etc, can also cause a loss in power.

Those wheels are looking good mate! Yeah the original diamond finish, is created on a CNC lathe - costs about $400/wheel from memory, to have snowflakes done as per factory. I'm always a fan of restored/polished/mint condition factory alloys. The LTD should look really nice with those fitted.