SPArKy_Dave

An alcohol fueled stove? This reminds me of a simpsons episode -

Yes I guess so, a broken b-series blend-door shaft, results in the HVAC system blowing both hot AND cold at the same time. (often each temperature extreme, out differing vents) Hence - schrodingers blend-door shafts. E-series mid/high series do it too, but it's the blend-door motor which fails, generating the dreaded E2 climate control error code. Both are dash-out fixes.

Glad someone understands my autistic humour.

B-series have schrodingers blend-door shafts...

Only... sometimes it doesn't.

329-412 is an Ashdown-Ingram number, equivalent to the 9041. TX9041 2 tonnage 4.4degrees Superheat TX9015 1.5 tonnage 2.8degrees Superheat I'd stick with the TXV you have, and start there. In a nutshell, the higher capacity TXV's (tonnage) requires a higher superheat, to ensure all the refrigerant gets boiled to a vapour within the evap core, before reaching the compressor. Since liquids don't compress, the compressor will not fair well, if it has to deal with liquid refrigerant. 12.000 Btu = 1 Ton When air is cooled or heated, the heating or cooling of the air is called sensible heating, and heating or cooling of water vapor in the air is called latent heating. The cooling process takes place at the evaporator. As warm moist air moves across the coil the water vapor condenses and is removed from the air, this is commonly seen as water dripping from an air conditioning system. A large amount of energy is required to heat or cool the water in the air. It is therefore important that we know both temperature and relative humidity of the air to calculate how much heating or cooling is taking place. This is especially important to get a more accurate system efficiency calculation. The amount of heat (sensible and latent) in air is referred to as enthalpy. R12 and R134a refrigerants are pure refrigerants - ie, azeotropic. Hychill, is a Zeotropic refrigerant (blend of R600a - isobutane and R290 - propane). Zeotropic refrigerants have a wider evaporating/condensing temp range. When evaporating, the most volatile component will boil off first and the least volatile component will boil off last. The opposite happens when gas condenses into liquid. for a given pressure, the temperature will change in the liquid-vapor mixture region. This results in a gliding evaporation and condensing temperature along the heat transfer surface. In practice, the saturation temperature at the inlet of the evaporator will be lower than at the outlet. In the condenser, the saturation temperature at the inlet will be higher than at the outlet.

You're saying, it had 125 thou ring gaps? It actually ran like that! And I thought my F-truck ring gaps were bad at 45thou, against a 20thou stock service limit. Cleveland's are amazing... I prefer soft cast rings, (which preserve the bore's), any day of the week! So 3-6thou piston to cylinder wall gaps? (half that, over the circumference) What mic's and dial bore gauge, do you have? I've got a set of Mitutoyo 103 series mics, and I'm looking at their bore gauge options, atm. Spoke to their local rep, the other week.

I wonder if he'd be interested, in @2redrovers Mk1 Panelvan? Could be worth asking, assuming it's still on the market.

My theory, is alot of folk are avoiding public transport atm, due to fear of china virus. Hence a massive amount of extra traffic. Add in people working 20bazillion multiple part-time jobs for 2hrs a day, due to still no work around. I back up my theory, by the higher price of new/used vehicles at the moment. Supply and demand? One day last week, I went out, but turned around went back home, and did after hrs instead. The traffic was THE WORST I can ever remember seeing it. Ridiculously long lines. This wasn't at the height of peak hr either - something like 3-4pm or so. Even traveling home this evening at 9.30-ish, I noted a high number of vehicles on the road. Traveling through the Warrandyte/Eltham corridor earlier, wasn't pleasant. In a few cases, there were lines of traffic km's long, leading up to intersections or roundabouts. My work productivity has definitely fallen, due to travel times.

For an EFI - all of them. and For a Carby running the stock 34adm - also all of them. Normally, they all work together as one happy family. I'm not familiar with the EFI hoses, but the carby ones relate to timing advance, throttle nudger on over-run, idle up/timing advance when Aircon is running, and other similar functions to prevent stalling.

Superheat = the low side gauge temp reading, compared to a measurement of the evaporator outlet pipe temperature. (the difference being the superheat).

Anything running R12 and a York compressor originally, should be beyond freezing cold. People have forgotten how good the x-series A/C systems were. There are many variables - superheat/subcooling, being an important one. If you're running R134a refrigerant, it will never absorb or reject atmospheric heat correctly, running with a non-parallel flow evaporator and condensor. (less surface area) R134a is less efficient than R12, so R134a compressors have a higher capacity, to move more refrigerant. Contrary to what 'experts' may say, you will need to run a natural/hydrocarbon refrigerant like Hychill. (ie, a refrigerant close to the LPG family) Or R12, which is un-obtainium in this country. Hychill is lighter than R12, so only requires 1/2 - 1/3 the charge when filling by weight, to achieve the same volume. (ie, R12 was a heavy refrigerant) R134a is in the middle weight-wise, but taxes the system over R12, since it will run higher pressures. Hychill is not quite as good as R12 was, but the PT spec's are miles better than R134a. Whenever I do an x-series Aircon refurb, I suggest to stay 100% factory, remove and flush the evap/condensor cores with my flush machine, same with all the lines. The evaporator core, I pressurise and submerge in a test bath to check for leaks, before re-using it. (Similar to tyre repair guys) I also remove the compressor, drain and re-fill the compressor oil with synthetic or new mineral oil, (PAG oil is for R134a, and also turns acidic with moisture absorption) plus I'll test/replace the compressor bearings if rough/noisy. I test the TX valve operation by removing and freezing/thawing it. Inspect all the o-rings and replace if obviously damaged, worn or leaking. The Hychill Minus 30 I use, has a fluorescent green dye in it. The system gets vacuumed down, and left overnight to test for leaks. After charging the system the following day, I test the A/C thermostat set-points, and suggest a return visit after a week or so, to check for any tiny refrigerant leaks. The above is very labour intensive and not cheap, but I've found it's the only reliable way. 90% of x-series A/C systems have sat empty for over a decade, so anything less, and the owner risks wasting alot of their money, IMO. Factory x-series systems are brilliant, when working correctly.

Could be stuck valves, valve-spring bind, or the cam is too big for zero deck, and now the lifters have pumped up, the valves are hitting the pistons. If you have a bore-scope, see if the piston crowns are marked/damaged. Or take the rockers off, then try turning the engine over by hand.

Full credit for this find, must go to Forum member - Lott. And an eye opening find it is indeed. Seems like the hits just keep on coming in the suspension department, with our old girls. LVVTA_Info_05-2004_Falcon_Balljoints-Aug_2004.pdf http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_05-2004_Falcon_Balljoints-Aug_2004.pdf I think an OzFalcon sanctioned upper ball joint comparison test might be in order, to see what's out there today, and how it performs. Who agrees?

From factory, the arms were assembled with the rubber bushes, then dipped in a vat of direct-to-metal anti-corrosion satin paint - just prior to the bushes, and lastly, they had the ball joints riveted in. The rivets were then marked with a dab of paint, during the quality control inspection.

@Outback Jack, do you have access to an EL harmonic balancer? Is it possible, they're marked differently? - ie, an EL balancer TDC mark, is actually the same as an ED/XG balancer 10degrees mark? Could it also be, that the computer pulls out timing differently?

What are those wheels called? I've never seen 8 stud aftermarket wheels like that.

Got a weird one with the Silver EF Fairmont wags project I did for my cousin..... Occasionally, (and only at really low speeds coming to a stop when parking with the wheels turned), it feels like the ABS is applying. The brake pedal pulses slightly and rapidly underfoot, and you get an oddball groaning noise, accompanied by a 'twanging' sound like a gate spring extending/contracting. Partly due to the above, and partly due to warped front discs, I rebuilt the front brakes - new QFM HPX pads, DBA 4132 slotted discs, Genuine Timken bearings and OEM NOK hub seals. I also rebuilt the front calipers, using genuine Ford/PBR caliper seal kits, new Genuine PBR pistons and new Genuine Ford stainless steel anti-rattle pad slides. Fitted 4 new Genuine Ford caliper bleed nipples, then flushed the whole system using 2ltrs of Genuine Ford DOT 4 brake fluid. Standard QFM pads were fitted to the rear and the caliper slides were checked, but didn't touch the rear discs or calipers themselves. I was really hoping the brake caliper rebuild and fluid flush, would fix the issue... but it hasn't. Anyone experienced the above phenomenon before? It feels like its coming from the front, but anything's possible at this point. My next test, was to maybe disconnect the ABS, and see what happens - in case it's a faulty wheel sensor or something weird like that. After the brake system rebuild, the phenomenon seems to be occurring more frequently. PBR ester based rubber grease was used on the piston and piston seals. High Temp Silicone grease was used on the caliper slides.

No, the problem hasn't been worked out as yet. The vehicle hasn't been used much the past few years, so it hasn't been given priority. My thoughts are, it's ABS engagement, due to the ackermans angle wheel speed effect - ie, when making left turns, the inside (left) wheel's, rotate less than the outer (right) wheel's - which rotate more, as they travel in a larger arc. I reckon my issue is likely an ABS wheel-speed sensor/sensitivity problem. It only ever occur's at very low (carpark) speeds.

Tbh, the vehicle looks like Ford Sno White - an off-white colour. Paint Code - 9 There's a Mitsubishi colour with paint code CZ - MITSUBISHI CZ - SOPHIA/SUMMIT WHITE 1987 and also Ford USA CZ - Desert Sky Blue - 2003

The only way to tell for certain, is to call 13FORD, or email Ford customer service, and get a copy of the Ford build/options sheet. S-pack was option 48 I think?

I'd probably keep the original stock wheels, tbh. You may want to swap the fancy wheels, onto another vehicle one day?

I wouldn't focus on wire colours too much. Check out the TFI Diagnostic article I linked below, see if that helps?

XD-XF have capacitive fuel senders I think? E-series (XG/XH too) have resistance based fuel senders.