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bear351c

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Posts posted by bear351c

  1. Posted

    what's it running in...a golf cart, lawnmower, 460 big block,??

     

    Depends on what your engine is set up for. LPG 'can' be set up to go as hard as pump fuel, but, it has to have everything set for gas only.

    351 on dual fuel for example, timing is about 6-8 deg, but straight gas, no carb, 13-15 degs. Depends on cam, extractors, ignition sytem, etc etc etc..

  4. Posted

    If the oil you have is still from the rebuild, ditch it quick.!  It will have all the cam lube, bore dust or whatever was left from the build.

    Penrite 10W-40 should be fine in a 'tight' engine, 20W-50 in an older one. IMHO.

     

    Make sure you change the Z9, too. :)

  7. Posted

    So, anything I should do to the bottom end once I get it? Will it be right to just use crank rods and pistons as they are, or is there stuff I should do to them?

     

     

     

    According to uniquecarsandparts.com.au a 351 XB (its an XB motor) put out 260bhp... I reckon I'd be more than happy with anywhere between 300-400hp. 

     

     

    Just get it checked for square and straightness, by your engine dude. Not too hard to get 351 HP from a 351 C, and at this level, you wont need to epoxy the block or 4 bolt the mains, save that for a drag engine. 351's are are good solid engine, from a truck. Good low down torque, nice all round engine for cruising.

  9. Posted

    As XES said  "..Pull the door skin off and have a look on the inside."  There are adjusting rods, inside the door cavity. Be careful disconnecting the plastic clips, as they can break when aged. New ones are still available, (FoMoCo/ebay/Auto stores), simply spin the rods in the nut, to lengthen or shorten the distance. Chances are, you'll have to change the door handle. Common prob with XD/E/F and Corty's. Door's drop over time, and people end up lifting the door to get it open. Handles not designed for this.

    Only 2 nuts holding the handle from the inside, so leave the door trim and rods off. :D  :D  :D

  16. Posted

    Noice !

     

    As said, the chrome ones leak, eventually. I did what Thom does, tap into the sender near the water pump. But, still have to buy a housing !

     

    Used to sell the KC stuff, it's errr.....average, to say the least. Having said that, got one on my engine with 2 grub screws in the ports,

    and it still doesn't leak.

     

    My 11 cents (GST incl.) worth.

  17. Posted

    Can you hear the motors working inside the doors?

     

    Any auto electrician, will fix them, (for a price). Usual suspect in the XD/E range, is the 3 white plastic rollers in the winder mechanism. Can be had off Evilbay. Do it yourself, good project, minimum skills required, and save a bunch of folding stuff.

  22. Posted

    The closed chamber heads will give you increased compression over the open chamber ones. Get them re-surfaced, triple angle valve job, port match them to a "good" gasket , (ie Felpro, not the cheap chinese stuff), polishing is wasted time unless you want mega horsepower. Get the heads cc'ed, and work out your compression ratio. Trouble free motoring..... :)

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