bear351c

Anything to REALLY watch out for with the 170.??  Remembering that this will be just refreshed enough to get driven into scrutineering/rubber glove station, and out again.

Bent pushrods.?? Burnt valves?? or just throw new rings at it and bolt it together??

Not at all, this is all new to me... appreciate the input. 

Hey I'm definitely NO expert on inline 6's, I've owned a couple, but, apart from pulling an iron head off an XD, (still have the hernia), was just told it was a wide block. Here's a couple more pics... got the "T" stamp on the breather tube boss, still haven't pulled the cam, or pistons out. 

The sludge and shite still needs cleaning off the bumpstick, before I pull it and damage the bearings.

LOL, was thinking the same thing about the run stand. . 

Well, I'm farkin bored shirtless with the XP build, still haven't got rego, but, sat looking at the inline 6 doorstop on the pallet, and thought to myself, "...wonder what that looks like inside..." ..."wonder if it still runs.." ...... So, bit the bullet and started stripping it down. Should have taken more pics, but, wasn't planning to rebuild this thing, but, it may help with my rego (original style engine and all that).

Seems like it's a 170 wide block,  3 freeze plugs, 4 mains, last oil change was done by Noah, after he finished servicing the Ark. The oil was so bad, that I actually picked up about 2 litres in my hand and placed it in the bin.!  It was jelly.  The oil pick up left a perfect imprint in it. ........and the smell was pure joy. 

The tower of power..

I KNOW...!!!  Look at that single barrel throat size. Roughly the same diameter as a 20c coin. 

The valve train was absolutely disgusting. Thick, solid, burnt and dried out oil from the last century. I didn't get any photos, as I was just going to play with this little engine, and then use it to stop the door from banging in the wind. After spending approximately 3 hours with a stiff brush, some thinners, and 4 or 5 cold snacks, I got it resemble an engine again.

Wish I had taken more pics of the gloop, it was the worst I've had to deal with. I've had stinky oil in a sump before, but never been able to pick it up in one piece...

Pulled the timing cover off, nothing to see here, just a well worn Morse chain. Pulled the head off, they weigh a few kilos.!  Checked all the cylinders after I dug the soot and carbon off the pistons. 

Stock cyl is 3.500" so, I reckon its a 60 thou overbore. Ooooh.....that piston doesn't look too good.

Yeah, after a little Scotchbrite action, something has been having a game of pinball in there....

Pull the lifters out with a magnet they say, it'll be fine, they said.......  2 hours later, got 'em all out. Lots of Acetone to break the varnish, and some up and down workout, they slowly came free. 

Some of the jelly oil was wrapped around the centre section, but, thinners, Scotchy, numbered and set aside......

Where to now..???   Well, I'll pull the pistons, check for cyl scoring, ring condition, big end bearings, Mains etc and make a more informed decision on the refresh. It's not going to be a rebuild, as I'm not willing to buy pistons, lifters, pushrods etc... if it's junk, so be it. I'm going the Windsor route anyhows.  If it's saveable, I'll give it a hone, new rings and bearings, and a set of gaskets, and see if it runs.!   Might even stick it in the XP, and drive it around the block for sheets and giggles.  Oh wait, got no wheels,....or suspension, or diff, or a single nut or bolt on the car.  

To be continued....

21 hours ago, Slow250XC said:

Gone past the point of crazy money on this side of the ditch mate. People wanting big dollars for worn out blocks etc etc.

I would love a nice mild 351, hp per cube sort of deal. But ain't gonna happen. Not nicely anyway.

Yeah, I get it. You would have to spend a fair amount of coin to get horsepower out of the Crossy, would that much money buy you a stock 230HP Clevo.?  Obviously things are different in everyones home town. Still keen to see the build..

Clevo fits.

Just sayin' .....

Nice build this.  Lotsa work restoring an old, rusty engine. All the machined surfaced look like they need a skim. Thermostat housing, gasket faces, crank snout etc, etc. 

Still, it's a big block, so why not.!!  I'd try and save money to afford alloy heads and inlet manifold. Very expensive but lose 20 kilos over the front end.?

Yeah true, but........... truck engine.

Pull a house.

10:1 pistons, lazy 400HP. 

Yeah, was on  my bucket list of engines. Always wanted a 427/429 or 460. But things happen, cars get sold, etc etc.  No point buying one now, would make the XP sooooooo front heavy. LMAO.  Ally intake and heads on 460 would make them about the same weight as a Clevo I reckon. So, perfect for the Nugget.. 

I guess it's supply and demand. 

Mach 1 mustangs, Effies, Panteras, there must be a market for it.

Hard to believe that there's so much interest in Clevo's in the good ole US of A, that Tim Meyer and such will go to the lengths of making new ones...!!!!  

At the same time, deleting some of the inherent issues from the 1960-70's model.  Bravo fellas.  If I was in the 'States, I know what I'd be saving for right now. 

....and BOSS heads had screw in rocker studs, I think.

No real issues, mate. Just make everything match up or reach...throttle cable, fuel line, wiring etc.  Check with your local rego mob, or join a club and get Historic rego.

V8 mounts for the engine bay, change fuelpump for a carby model, original Carter on the block, or an electric unit, brakes should be the same, depends on your State requirements.

If you have an 850 cfm, carb, thats waaay too big for a mild Clevo, grab a 650 vac sec or similar. Lots of early Falcons had drum brakes and a V8, manual steering, etc etc.

I used to run an XF 6 cyl rad with a shroud and stock fan on my 351's, cheap, easy to find, way more efficient than originals. Or just fit thermo fans from an EL or AU.

You know you want to..........

Good info, cheers for that.

Yeah, I remember selling the Nulon oil back in the day. As you said, it's the electrolysis (different kinds of metals) that cause issues, with water pumps, timing covers etc.... One reason why I stay away from alloy heads.

......prob more to do with the price.!!

LMAO.

You would be pushing to find any soluble oil, these days.!!   It's fine for use in any machinery, but, I don't know about the boiling point. The advantage of Coolant, is it's available anywhere, high boiling point, corrosion inhibitor built in, etc, etc.  As with all things, regular maintenance, (changing the coolant every year or two, flushing the system ...) is very important. 

Cool.  Any pics of the install.?? Looking at getting one of these for the future project..... 

On 2/22/2022 at 10:48 PM, RM351 said:

I have a cable specifically for XB handbrake to XC rear calipers. 

.........thanks for reminding me.....  really should put mine on, bought it 2 years ago.  My shed isn't on a hill, so didn't bother. 

I retract that last statement..........  Pacemaker list PH4055 and say in red letters WILL fit C6 and FMX.  Maybe it's their 4 into 1's I was thinking about. Yep, thats it Castle headers, CH112A. 

Been told Pacemakers for a Clevo interfere with an FMX trans, not sure about C6. Some listings on Fleabay specifically say ..."not suited to FMX"

Agreed.  Done the conversion on the XB, from drum to disc brake 9", haven't changed a thing.  Brakes hard and straight. Heard many stories about rears locking up, etc, but haven't had it on both conversions I've done. Fully rebuilt calipers from an XC/ZH, and new discs. 

Epic......

Yep. so you did...  

At least I have pants on today. Remembered this morning.

What thermostat do they use on the 400.?? Can't see the brass restrictor plate...