bear351c

Can be done, but, easier without.  It's only 2 bolts mate.. 

Would be waaay easier with the dizzy out, but you can do it with it in. Hard to get to the valley "walls", you'll have the oil sender at the back as well. 

Much easier to pull the dizzy out, (don't turn the crank, it'll pop straight back in) remove the thermostat housing.  Heaps easier to clean all the old gasket goo off........

Not for me.......  

Waaaay heavier..!  Cast iron housing Vs Alloy. 

Yeah mate, took out the C4 and Borgy, slipped it under the bench, 'cos it's all matching number.  Built up a 351 from bits and pieces I had in the shed, and bolted to my old FMX, 'cos I like to chirp the tyres when changing into 2nd.  Would have cost thousands to get a C4 to the same state.

Yeah, I got an FMX, and I manually shift it all the time. Heaps of fun through the hills, bit of a pain sometimes, when dickheads pull out in front of you and you try to get around them, but theres enough torque in 3rd gear. 

XLT..!   

Just do it...

Dont really want to "like" this but......... Good work.!

Oh HELL YEAH............!   

Cross threaded the nut...??

The TQ has a solenoid for high idle, when the A/C kicks in. Thats what the wire is for. 

That adaptor plate is the correct one, has the flange (cant see it, under the gasket in your pic) and the "ear" Gerg was talking about, on the opposite side. If you can plug the EGR stuff off, do that. Should have come with new studs in the packet.?  Lockiing 2 nuts together is the best way of removing the old ones, as stated.

Adapting the kickdown lever is a pain....... Gave up on mine (FMX) and just manually shift gears. It's more fun, too. !

Is that like Schroedingers cat.........?

Yeah, they will be tight.  But as Dean said, 2 spanners about 20mm apart at the ends, and squeeze them together with one hand. Drip some ATF or WD40 on them overnight.

OMG....... those rocker covers are friggin gorgeous. 

Yeah mate, that'll work. You can buy a manual choke, but obviously FC/FD didnt have a choke cable. Nothing stopping you mounting one under the dash. It's reasonably warm in SA, so I don't even run a choke, just annoy the neighbours warming the old girl up.  

Blue blocks had a larger shaft, (I think). Round about 0'500". Reckon the black blocks were about 0.480" thou.

Measure the dizzy shaft hole.  Or the shaft measurement under the gear on the dizzy shaft.

Agreed.  If you haven't machined the block, buy your pistons first. Most engine builders will ask for them, as they measure them first to decide which is smallest/largest and adjust the tolerance on the boring machine. Definitely use a Zinc additive or Zinc oil.  If you have the Eddy Performer, run with it, it will work fine for a daily. If you buy flat tops, you might have to run her on 98 PULP, which can be pricey. I ground a relief chamfer on my 302 heads, and it runs fine, on 95 but doesn't really enjoy 91 unleaded (pings). As it's a weekend cruiser, I only run her on 98.

"Black" block is a later XD-XE Clevo, and has a different size dizzy shaft, earlier "Blue" block dizzy's wont fit. 

I'm running a Comp XE274H in the 351, with no real issues. Standard brakes, rear disc conversion, new master cyl, ( all overhauled.) Doesn't exactly stop on a dime, but it's a 2 tonne 40 year old Falcon. 

Lots of misinformation on the 'Net about these being a Boss, 4 bolt, mega rare, etc, etc.   Pretty sure its just an American imported block from a Galaxie or F100. 

Not 100% certain, though. Boss blocks had screw in welsh plugs, not the press in cups, with a big arse square in the centre, and I think the heads had screw in studs for the rocker gear.

Anyone know ??

5 hours ago, deankdx said:

........... also go right around a round about a complete loop to end up behind the tailgater for same reasons. 

I've done this....

2 inch roof chop is needed.......  

.....and a 289.