bear351c

Have you recently washed the engine? Driven through deep water? Got any air bubbles in radiator with cap off? Does engine overheat? Excessive steam from tailpipe?

what's it running in...a golf cart, lawnmower, 460 big block,?? Depends on what your engine is set up for. LPG 'can' be set up to go as hard as pump fuel, but, it has to have everything set for gas only. 351 on dual fuel for example, timing is about 6-8 deg, but straight gas, no carb, 13-15 degs. Depends on cam, extractors, ignition sytem, etc etc etc..

Dont think so, I used 2038's on my clevo, before buying a HD tailshaft, but, I reckon the K5-13's are for the aluminium tailshaft. (Not 100%)

Doesn't the heater tap have a cad plated cylinder on it? If so, this is the problem. Inside is a diaphragm, if it splits, heater will not operate. New heater tap should fix it.

If the oil you have is still from the rebuild, ditch it quick.! It will have all the cam lube, bore dust or whatever was left from the build. Penrite 10W-40 should be fine in a 'tight' engine, 20W-50 in an older one. IMHO. Make sure you change the Z9, too.

Agreed. +1. All Fairlanes/LTD's are based on the station wagon chassis. So they're longer. Roughly 150 - 180 mm, from memory. But i do drink a bit.......

Had DBA rotors, warped, straight out the box ! Had them machined and lasted for ages.... Also, vibration could be tyre balance, uni joints, centre bearing, tie rod ends, shockies.............sorry, I know that doesn't help.

Just get it checked for square and straightness, by your engine dude. Not too hard to get 351 HP from a 351 C, and at this level, you wont need to epoxy the block or 4 bolt the mains, save that for a drag engine. 351's are are good solid engine, from a truck. Good low down torque, nice all round engine for cruising.

Yeah, thats right. Xdubs had them. Knew I'd seen one before. Looks like the Windsor style. My bad.

As XES said "..Pull the door skin off and have a look on the inside." There are adjusting rods, inside the door cavity. Be careful disconnecting the plastic clips, as they can break when aged. New ones are still available, (FoMoCo/ebay/Auto stores), simply spin the rods in the nut, to lengthen or shorten the distance. Chances are, you'll have to change the door handle. Common prob with XD/E/F and Corty's. Door's drop over time, and people end up lifting the door to get it open. Handles not designed for this. Only 2 nuts holding the handle from the inside, so leave the door trim and rods off.

Yeah, I was thinking of posting that. Windsor housing, change top rad hose.?

Not that I would know............I don't speed. Never have. Ever. Not even once..........honest

...........also good for going thru speed cameras.

Yep, busted door handle.

You could paint it "alloy silver", then it would match your waterpump and inlet manifold. Just a thought.

Those will be for standard 351 rods, if you use 302 rods the pistons have the gudgeon pin higher in the casting, so they dont hit the heads/valves.

Noice ! As said, the chrome ones leak, eventually. I did what Thom does, tap into the sender near the water pump. But, still have to buy a housing ! Used to sell the KC stuff, it's errr.....average, to say the least. Having said that, got one on my engine with 2 grub screws in the ports, and it still doesn't leak. My 11 cents (GST incl.) worth.

Can you hear the motors working inside the doors? Any auto electrician, will fix them, (for a price). Usual suspect in the XD/E range, is the 3 white plastic rollers in the winder mechanism. Can be had off Evilbay. Do it yourself, good project, minimum skills required, and save a bunch of folding stuff.

Cool.! Just checkin'

Harmonic balancer slipped ?? Try 8* or 12 * degrees, see if it goes away.

Edelbrock Performer ?

Errrr.....run on regular fuel

The closed chamber heads will give you increased compression over the open chamber ones. Get them re-surfaced, triple angle valve job, port match them to a "good" gasket , (ie Felpro, not the cheap chinese stuff), polishing is wasted time unless you want mega horsepower. Get the heads cc'ed, and work out your compression ratio. Trouble free motoring.....

Agreed +1. 351 crank and rods, Edelbrock performer, extractors, keep the closed chamber 302 heads. You'll be happy as a dog with 2 dicks.

Agreed +1.