bear351c

I always run closed chamber heads on my 351, never had issues with PULP or LPG. Each to their own, I guess. So many variables.

Stay away from Silicone, if you ever want to paint your car again...............

Cool.

...........and if the crank touches the oil, it will froth. Causing bubbles. Spoke to Crane and Crow when I was buying a cam for my 351, and they both suggested "NO" to a Hi volume oil pump. As Ando wrote above ^^ (and put in an oil bypass kit, eh Thom? )

I've had no issues with Penrite, ( others will disagree ), but when was it last changed? 10,000kays and it will be shot.....

Cracked dizzy cap ?? Igniton lead arcing ?? Did ya drive through deep puddles on the way home??

So, have you picked your carby, yet.......?

Had great success with Barossa Windscreens, if you need an expert to re-fit.

How about polished Redwood, with stainless strips to hold in place?

Backyarders sometimes pulled the guts out the thermostat, and put that in. Voila ! Instant orifice plate.... Without the plate, coolant runs too quickly through rad, without enough time to "cool".

Awesome. Updates for both. Restoring my own XA, and looking at blasting equipment. When you get the time...........

Any updates, Gav.??

Sorry Mr McFly. Thread stealing..........I'll go back under my rock.

Hand me downs from USA........... There are so many carb manufacturers out there, but, everyone picks a Holley. So over rated. Dellorto, Weber, SU, Carter, Stromberg, Autolite, Barry Grant, Edelbrock...............blah, blah, blah................. Just my opinion....... Tell me this doesn't look and perform better.

To make a problem, put a Holley on it....Yawn.

Not to anybody else, but, to you who will drool over it, drive it with pride and know you have the cleanest, toughest car on your street.........Priceless

Never had one, but sounds like an engine mount/gearbox mount. Is the engine missing on acceleration, or just moving??

Never tried 'em, but I'm told GRA systems are the best. I used to run twin 425 converters on a Sprintgas system, (basically a thinner aircleaner), even TIG welded 2 of those alloy snorkel's together, so I could run an air cleaner either side of the carby. Would have looked awesome all polished up............never put it on.

I'm pretty sure Mr Ford spent thousands of dollars on R & D, to get the Webber to flow right, for that vehicle, with those flow caracteristics, on that head...etc etc. Maybe a run on a dyno to see what your engine is doing under driving conditions. Igniton, wiring, vacuum, fuel pump all play a small part in how your engine performs, even at idle. Just a thought......

Sure can,..... bit of fookin around. You'll have to pull the lifters out, rad out, timing cover off etc. Definitely do-able.

Pedders could fit a set to the height you want. It'll cost ya........tell them that you want it to sit level with the guards, and they'll get the coils to suit. Otherwise, its trial and error. Kings do low and superlow, (roughly 25mm and 50 mm drop) depends on whats in the boot, Amps and Doof Doof speakers, LPG tank, full tank of petrol, Stolen car parts etc etc....

Anything but Holley............

Did you find the bent pushrod ?? (Roll them on a benchtop)

Sounds like your steering box, if it groans when turning the wheel..... Brake pads are usually fitted with an anti-rattle spring, a lot of people ditch them. Some old farts used to to silastic a bit of cardboard on the back of the pad. Brake rotors have 'run-out'. Basically a slight wobble when they rotate, this makes the pads 'vibrate' in the caliper.

Yep, what Rev said. Nolathene will last 4 times longer, but, with that strength you get harshness. Use Nolathene on the hardest wearing parts, like sway bar links. As you've stated, your car is now firm and corners on rails, but, all the screws will fall out of your dash in 12 months. . . . . (King springs are 15% firmer than standard springs, no matter what height)