bear351c

Hmmm........being a ute it's slightly different to a sedan. Fuel tank is behind the seat, (rubber hoses rubbing)........ front eye of the leaf springs,............ stock seats? (rubbing against bodywork),............seat belt hanger ? Good luck !

Try CRC Silicone spray for plastic on plastic.

No drama's Thom...it's been a 3 coffee morning, in my world too.!

Agreed. 4" bore x 3.5'' stroke is a 351. (unmolested) 3" stroke is a 302ci. Clevo heads are rectangular shaped on the ends, with 4 threaded bolt holes, Windsors are sort of triangular. ? Most Windsor engines have the thermostat housing as part of the intake manifold. Clevo's have it on the front of the block. This advice is general, for further details call 1800 DILLIGAF. Call costs 0.50cents/min, higher from mobiles, if you're desperate.

Man, that XE 2 door looks intresting. Got anymore photos??

That's nice and low. Looks sweet.

Found this on the Interknob...

That looks like it. With a part number starting with 82DA******, would have come out on the last of the XD's I reckon. Most got ripped off on those bloody car park concrete slabs.

I'm with you, nOObus, looks scary. BUt, if dudes have used them, (like you blackxt) with no issues, then I guess they work. I use a couple of old seat belts tied with a double granny knot....... Seriously, chains on the heads, or fabric slings around the sump, and a chain block/engine crane. Much better with a mate helping. Jack up engine then slowly push car out the way. Dont forget plastic bag tied on trans housing, cos gearbox oil smells like ass.

Good work, thanks for sharing.

Most Thermo fan switches have an off and on temp. The original fan, was only needed in traffic or at standstill. When moving you dont need a fan. Hence the invention of the viscous hub for 1980's onwards. Air pushing against the hub, allows the fan to turn at alternative speeds to engine revs. Less horsepower loss.

Smart thinking, Bazza. The vinyl is glued on with that sticky yellow contact adhesive. You may get it all off, but, if you're gunna cut out rust spots anyway, you'll need the paint and compressor anyhows.......... may be a small syringe with rust deoxidiser or fish oil for the time being.? Or grab a sheep, hold it upside down and rub it on the roof, from side to side.

Yep. What Daniel said....^ ^ ^

Yep, top hose. Guessing you have to cut the hose to fit.?? Original sender measures temp inside the block, doesn't make a lot of difference. Most thermo fans run from sender in radiator.

Maybe E series didn't need them 'cos of unleaded fuel. Or different emission standards that year? Fuel injection? NFI.

Exhaust Gas Recirculation, Some exhaust gas is re-burnt, (usually goes in base of carb/inlet), to give less emissions from the tailpipe.

70 psi is fine, new bearings, tight tolerances, etc.. Nothing wrong with Shell/Valvoline/Whoever.............just personal choice. I buy Penrite, mainly 'cos it's Made In Oz.! Run it in all my engines, bikes, mower, compressor, chainsaw, never had anything seize on me. Regular servicing is the key, just because your oil isn't dirty, doesn't mean it hasn't lost all its "goodness". Have had issues with Castrol going thin, real quick. Just my opinions.

I use Penrite HPR GAS in my Clevo, no issues. Not a race engine, though. Just for work duties and a bit of weekend fun. Used it since rebuild 30k ago. Synthetic will be fine, just dont mix and match. If you use synthetic, stay with it. (works with LPG, Diesel, commercial vehicles)

8 grand !! Sounds extreme, to me. You want to make the most power at the lowest revs, to save your engine.

Mmmm.............Roller cam.

Yeah.........what they said. ^ ^ ^ ^ Great explanation guys.

Yeah, sleeving works good. If you have a buggered cylinder, or want absolutely stock bore size. But, as Thom said, it's a cost thing. All alloy blocks are sleeved, most diesels and 2 strokes as well. Last i checked, it was $100 per cylinder. ......times by 8........not worth it.

New seal wont need it, as long as it doesn't have rust or sharp edges under it. Thought you were using the old seal.

Yeah, isn't that Sikoflex the stuff they use in the factory? I peeled some off my XB, 35 years old, and still flexible.!

I would stick with the Black Sikoflex (that sticky shit, you cant get off your fingers for 2 weeks !!) I've seen the Acetone ?? or something in Silastic leave a frosty look on the glass, which you cant get off. Having said that, shouldn't hurt the paint.