bear351c
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Everything posted by bear351c
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Close your eyes...........and run your hand along the panel. Paint with a flat/matte colour, easier to see dents without shine. Smear the whole car in a thin layer of bondo, Boyd Coddington style, and file flat with a half metre long sanding plane.
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Reckon a cop would even know ? Most engines have a machined surface for the engine number, Clevo's were stamped onto rough casting.
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Then you're in the POO ! I wouldn't do it, not ever, not even once...........it's against the law.
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Could always source a brand new block, from Arrow.! $ $ $ $ $ http://www.pavtek.com.au/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=236:new-ford-cleveland-aftermarket-block&catid=7:parts-a-products
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You would have to know one of the MIB's at the rego office. I don't think anyone else can search for an engine number, as no-one else has a database. Chances are, the block has been turned into a 351, melted in a furnace, or at simsmetal. Buy some number stamps, and find a milling machine...... Sorry mate, anyone else ???
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Good to hear, did you get it recently ? Got mine 5 years ago.
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Kinda looks OK, but should've painted the blackouts along the bonnet swage lines.
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Yeah that's true. Hadn't thought about that. Good point.
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Yeah, agree. The pic that Defective put up, looks way better, 'cos the owner deleted the E series bonnet swage lines.
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Just shit stirring.......I know what I meant.
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Had both, neither is perfect, IMHO. Never fit around the tunnel. Bought Grey,Plush pile for the FC LTD, but the fluff kept coming off for years. Carpet was very nice, though. Got Black, loop pile for the XB Ute, seems much more hard wearing, but, harder to get the dirt out, as the little grass seeds get caught under the loops. I know that doesn't help............
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OK, OK.,Sorry........................ Geez. IT'S NOT AN E SERIES.
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Thom, I think ? the short Z9 is a Z10, in Ryco brand. Need to check. Should be 3/4" thread (stamped next to hole), and diameter of seal ring.
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Always done my OCI @ 5,000 kays. New Filter, Penrite, and off i go.......351 loves me ! !
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Personally, I run Z9's, but as long as they have pressure bypass, they should do the same job. It's like 25 brands of toothbrush that all do the same thing. The best thing is to inspect your oil filter by cutting it open after draining it. It should be dirt and metal particle free. Regular oil changes, more often, if you give your engine heaps of right boot.!, are just as important. Thanks for all the links, been interesting reading.
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Thanks all for advice, some good stuff in there. I've been around Engineering all my life, and a Fitter for 20 years, so I wasn't going to be Guido with a Makita in the back yard.......... It would be an engineering company, multi spindle drill and steel inserts. Hadn't thought of the blank rotors idea, sometimes you just can't find old wheels or mags, and when ya do, they fit something else, like a Prius. Occasionally you will find old school rims like Hurricanes, Rebels or Hotwires for other cars, but not for the old FalCoon. I've seen new sets are available on eBay, but I'm not paying over $3,000 for them.
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Ok, cheers Ants. Been a while since I've looked, you're right, they are relatively cheap. Coopers or Maxxis. I was thinking more of Bridgestone, Yokey 352 or BFG style. Shows how old I am.
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You could modify the wheel tubs in the boot. Make them squarish, and this stops the tyre from rubbing on the inside. Add wheel spacers to adjust the offset. Just a couple of other ways of doin' it. Personally, I would stick to tyre sizes that are easy to come by. 295/50 series are expensive and hard to find. Good luck, lots of photos if you please......
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Yeah, reckon you're right. They were Aluminium from memory, so polishing will remove the clear coat. They will polish up nice, but you'll have to coat them with something afterwards. The ones on my FC were half chrome/half black, pain in the arse to refurbish. Needed to mask them up, red oxide, then satin black. Had no reason to polish mine, as I'd had the car for 13 years, and they were still shiny. (just the black, had faded).
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Yup, that'll do it. Got Nolathene bushes anywhere ??
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Tried to start engine - now we have electrical issues
bear351c replied to ZJ 'lane's topic in Auto Electrics
It was working alright before you pulled the dizzy out? Must be those wires. Did it crank, before? Backfire through the carb, sounds like leads may be out of order. Just a coupla thoughts..... -
Tacho not working on LTD instrument cluster
bear351c replied to Supersnake's topic in Interior and Car Audio
I got conned into believing a 6 pack dash cluster was a V8, so I fitted it in good faith. Everything works, but the Tacho and Speedo are out by a mile. At approx 120km/h both needles were off the clock. Made a good photo... Did the ZJ come out with a tacho? From memory, its a green wire to the positive side of the coil, but don't trust my brain, I drink a lot. Bird Up !! Could be a shitty connection in the big round plug on the back. Need to check the wire is actually there in the plug. Anyone got a wiring diagram? That will tell you what colour wire it should be. -
Different between XW-XY and XD-XE 351's. (Shouldn't matter on an Effie, plenty of room. Not 100% though...)
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Cheers. Looks like its had a chop top, the half dozen XE ESP 2 doors built, always looked too high and 'boxey" From that shot, it sorta looks like a Merc.