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bear351c

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Everything posted by bear351c

  1. bear351c

    XB Log motor rebuild tips

    Here's a New Oldie for an XC........... pricey though ! http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GENUINE-FORD-NOS-XC-QUARTER-1-4-PANEL-FIT-GXL-MOFFAT-FAIRMONT-XA-XB-FALCON-/171092242093?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27d5e46ead
  2. bear351c

    XB Log motor rebuild tips

    Too right, heard that too. KB was a guru on allsorts of stuff. (Same thing evolved into the 3V heads and such, for the Clevo's.)
  3. bear351c

    XB Log motor rebuild tips

    Mate,!! You would have to be an ol fart to even remember the log motor. (No offence, thom) Don't reckon there would be too much around for them anymore. Pretty sure Cain or Redline or Lynx used to do manifolds, but' you'd have to get a second hand unit of fleabay. Any reputable head job shop should be able to machine yours out to increase power/flow. More air in, more air out, more power. Speak to Crane Cams or similar, and explain the type of cam you need, they can grind one to suit. Steady idle, lumpy, good top end, low down grunt so on.... Maybe get in touch with local Ford car club? Just a few ideas, can't wait to see what you find, Watching with interest. Offenhauser made these old things.
  4. Try Dellow Automotive. They used to make bell housings etc...... http://www.dellowconversions.com.au/about.html
  5. bear351c

    Xd gearbox

    Yep, Top Loader or a beefed up T5. Depends on what HP you're gunna put thru it...
  6. bear351c

    XA XB sedan tail light panel

    Mine look like this.............
  7. Has anyone tried to fit a sedan light in a coup/hardtop? Just want to know if the hole in the beaver panel is the same size. There are no aftermarket beaver panels around for the sedan, but heaps for the hardtop, so if the holes are the same I will buy a coup panel and cut'n'shut it. Last one I saw on Ebay was over $700. should have bought it, as it was NOS.
  8. bear351c

    clevo in to xf

    COOL STUFF !
  9. bear351c

    V8 stands

    Pretty sure they're 300+ kgs with all their clothes on. Alt/carby/oil etc etc.
  10. bear351c

    wheel rusted on

    I'm guessing you've got the Alloy rims on the Fairmont. Dis-similar metals often 'bite' into each other. Might try jacking up, big mo'fo' rubber mallet, hitting the tyre either side, then top bottom, either side, top bottom. Found the best "loosen-upperer" is 50/50 Tranny fluid (ATF) and Acetone. Get 'em both at Big Dubya. Rubber mallet wont don't any damage, just beware of the recoil......Bah ha ha ha ha
  11. bear351c

    XD-XF Bucket seat bolts

    True. .........and funny. :D
  12. bear351c

    XD-XF Bucket seat bolts

    Mate, if you buy bolts, they will spin in the seat rails, because they're hex head. The originals are square head, so they jam tight in the rails, and you can get under the car and tighten them. Otherwise it's a 2 man job. .....or tack weld them into the rails. Sorry, can't help with the sizes. Make sure the nuts are pressing against a 'plate or washer' on the underside of the car. Not sure if ALL floor pans had them, if you are going from a bench to buckets. Definite canary if cops have a look, and they may tear out of the floor in a prang.
  13. Yeah, I always thought it was Water Dispersant - 40th attempt............. 50/50 Acetone, ATF. is apparently the best. Never tried it, though.
  14. Just replaced the pads on the front of the Fairlane, and the passenger side slide pin is jammed solid. Went to U-pull-it wreckers and scored a spare, (or 3), and their dust boots, but even after leaving it soaking in WD40, it still wont budge. Tried a G-clamp and socket, soft hammer.......anyone come across this?? I'm a lazy bum, so I was trying to fix it without removing the caliper, and having to bleed the system again. The slide pins allow the Caliper to self centre, as the pads wear, look a bit like these thingos either side of the photo below. The dust boot had a small hole in it, and the weather has got in. The other 3 were in fabulous condition. There's always one...........
  15. Yeah I know, might give it a burn through the hills, when the pads are bedded in. The extra heat might help, still got WD40 on it. Maybe a stepped punch might work...
  16. Like your thinking, Rev. I was getting close to "Long hammer - Short temper", but, its my daily so I gotta pick up the kids, go to work etc. in it.
  17. bear351c

    mint glaze paint.

    Any decent Auto parts store should be able to mix up a rattle can for ya. I used to do it, myself. Get the paint code off the vin plate, as seen in the photos above it should be " D ". Can get 1 litre, 4 litres or spray can mixed up. Obviously it'll be brighter than your existing paint.
  18. bear351c

    Tyres and Wheel stuff.

    Thanks all.
  19. bear351c

    Fmx c4 prop shaft difference.

    True, and good research. I love my FMX. Neck snapping, tyre squealin' gear changes, that break seat mounts.....but, that's just me. (Just don't EVER want to change another, in my entire life !) Cast Iron is FOOKIN' HEAVY
  20. bear351c

    Tyres and Wheel stuff.

    Bah ha ha ha ha ha haaaaaaaaaa............
  21. bear351c

    Fmx c4 prop shaft difference.

    Yep, what he said ^ ^ ^ Why the change, you looking for less weight ?
  22. bear351c

    cams

    No, you wont damage the engine. Just dont flog it. You may get detonation. aka pre-ignition/dieseling/knock. Sounds like the timing is out abit, like XCsedan suggested, a good tune. (Dont trust the marks on the Harmonic balancer.) If you're just going to toodle around getting quotes, it will be fine. Trust me
  23. bear351c

    Tyres and Wheel stuff.

    I'll leave that to the Commodore drivers.......
  24. bear351c

    cams

    That'll be $100, thanks........
  25. bear351c

    Body work on an xd

    Close your eyes...........and run your hand along the panel. Paint with a flat/matte colour, easier to see dents without shine. Smear the whole car in a thin layer of bondo, Boyd Coddington style, and file flat with a half metre long sanding plane.
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