bear351c

Yeah, got mine from them, too. (Hypereutectic) H555P or some such from memory. Flat tops with eyebrows. No dramas so far..............

Awesome ! Will get years out of it.

Interesting reading, good info guys.

Still could be a fuel starvation problem, (pump, blocked filter etc), but you said you hadn't checked the timing. As a general rule, when replacing a carby, I turn it upside down and set the float levels so that the floats are parallel to the ground. Idle screws out 2 turns, usually gets me started. Backfiring could be a few things, ignition leads cross firing, cracked dizzy cap, ignition timing out, ........

Running LPG at all ?

Usually a regrind is 0.010" at a time, eg: 2.750", then 2.740" etc etc...... Metric is around 67.85mm (I think??) 1mm is around 0.040 thou, most bearings, both conrod and mains, are stamped in inches.

Could spray a little Ether (Aerostart) around the carb and intake manifold, if engine revs rise....got a vacuum leak. Check leads, timing, fuel pump as suggested. (Not going to say anything about the brand of carby)

Agreed +1. Go the XR6 seats. Super comfy.

Had electrical gremlins in my FC for a long time. Checked everything twice. Turned out to be the loom, where it runs over the rear wheel arch, under the back seat. Wore through the cable (so small, I couldn't see it) Not saying this is your problem. Shit of a job running a whole new wiring loom. If you have one.....

Remove the light switch all together, and run some Missile switches on the dash............

Scotch-locks......Bah ha ha ha,...haven't seen them for ages.!!!

Hmmm...... Header wrap on the exhaust, next to the tranny? Ceramic coating ? $$$$ Stainless plate bolted to the trans pan?

Doppelganger

Could it be that you have used 'Accesories' power, not ignition power cable?

All good, bro.

Didn't think B&M made a cable for the FMX?

I'm not being naive at all. If I buy a water pump for a 351, it fits. If I spend a couple of grand on heads for a Cleveland, they should fit. Standard heads with no deck machining, straight out the factory, should bolt straight on. Would you spend thousands on a set of Simmons and then have to file the holes out.? I guess I expected more professionallism. I never have doubted that CHI or AFD heads work better than stockies, I have done the research, I know how and why they work.

Wow............what awesome products. I often hear people harping on about how good they are, but, if they don't bolt up to a standard 2V 351, what's the fookin' point? Might as well keep the cast iron ones, and spend the 2 grand on machine work.

I need teepee, for my bunghole..............

Holley blue (and red) have a fairly good rep. Dare say they're a bit better quality than the chinese ones. I run a Carter on my inner guard in the engine bay, no issues.

Awesome guys.......thats what forums are all about.

Beavis and Butthead rock................

Yup, had two on my FC LTD.

I suggest a new set, but if money is tight and you use the old ones, check the lengths all together, and make the longest one match all the rest. If the bolts have been mis-matched in the past, they may have been in a specific order in the block. Using a 'too long' bolt in a 'too short' hole, means the bolt will bottom out in the hole, and not crush your head gasket properly. Just a thought.

Also, a lot of electric pumps like to 'push' fuel, not pull. Mounting closer to the tank and down low, may help. Up high in the engine bay may cause issue.