bear351c

Yep, not much available for the cast iron lump. B&M don't make an adaptor for their shifters, can't buy aftermarket dipsticks, etc..... But, I FOOKIN" LOVE THEM........heavy as hell, but, bullet proof. Neck snapping gear changes, and...............ok, I'll go out and measure mine. Back soon.

The stock XF. Had a speedo, and a ................ Think that's about it.

Looks like n00bus painted the needles with model paint, or similar. That adds weight to the needles and makes them read incorrectly. Having said that, it looks awesome.

300% better than an XF dash. ...........let the flaming begin.

Hmmm.......you could be right, mate. I reckon it is, looks dark in the photo.

Mmmmmm that last one................trouser tightening stuff :-)

Found some info........it was Nutmeg in 1979. code Q. Try Uniquecarsandparts XD techspecs. My friggin' laptop wont let me paste the link. Windows Exploder.........

Hmmm......not sure. On the XA, paint code "Q" is Yellow Fire, (I think) Any chance of a photo?

Your starter motor got a solenoid on it, piggy back style. Or is it a straight cylinder (Clapper) starter, with a remote solenloid.? Usually hides under the battery tray. (351 that is).

Yep, agreed. Takes a lot of the heat out of the engine bay.

Must be your block, then Big Cav.?? Thin walled casting, core shift and all that jazz. Yep, clevo's run hot in XD shape, but, I personally have had no issues. (030"thou bore, closed heads PULP and Gas.) PWR are good, V8 Supercars use 'em. Aussie Desert used to be.....(think their Chinese now) not 100% sure. I went to my local radiator guy, and he said he could build a 3 core, brass/copper,if I wanted, but it was more expensive than a stock FoMoCo radiator. XF run their cooling tubes side to side if I remember right. Old stuff used to run up down, efficiency I guess..... (Quick fix in traffic, turn your heater on full bore, it's another baby radiator.)

Why are you overheating?? I've used standard XF 6 cyl rads on my 351's for years, stock fan and good shroud, Give my cars heaps, and never boiled over. Just asking...

Hey Gerg, does that mean that cops can count ???

Get a Dremel, and make the slot longer.. So, it's a 3PK 875, then ?

Sweet. Don't forget piccies..... If the car came out the factory with a V8, it's pretty easy to do engine swap. XF/FE didn't, so you need an engineers report.

Agreed. Carbies run about 6-8 psi fuel pressure, EFI can run around 100psi. Will blow all the seals out of your carby.!

Used to buy all my engine stuff from Precision parts, good company to deal with. Reading their catalogue was like like seeing porn for the first time.

Tough phenolic resin Zinc phosphate 24"-long tube with conical nozzle reaches in .......sounds like a night at Helga's House of Pain. (errr........so I've been told) Looks good, what could possibly go wrong. ?? Can you get that here?? Not sure if you can post aerosols overseas. POR15 is good stuff, trying to remember a cheaper product I have used on motorbike fuel tanks....... brain dead, old fart.

Post up the 'right' size belt for all us other plebs.....happy hunting.

Put the 250 in the other one, and sell it back to Grommet....

Yep, what he said. ^ ^ ^ Everything fits. (Except fuel line is different.) Transfer all of it, up to the diff centre. Dash clocks as well, 6 cyl tacho/speeod will read incorrect. Tailshaft uni joints SHOULD be the same on the diff, but measure the caps just in case. Probably easiest to pull the whole wiring loom out, at least you'll have the right wires/connectors, saves heaps of time. Mark the wires as you disconnect them with masking tape and texta. Oil sender, Alt, etc..... Lots of photos is good. Post 'em up when ya get a chance.

Mmmm........lumpy.

Stole this from article........a good read.

Fan belts are easy....... V belt size example : 11A1050 is 11mm wide by 1050mm long, 13A0855 is 13mm wide by 855mm long. Serpentine " : 5PK2350 is 5 grooves across by 2350mm long. Cut your old belt and get length with tape measure, minus 20mm or whatever. All belts run on the sides of the 'vee'. Most Auto shops have a belt measurement device, if you take yours in.

Yep, done as said by the above experts. Standard pump is plenty given the Clevo's inherrent oiling issues. Has the sump been dented? Can cause restriction between the pan and pump pick up.