bear351c

That is today's "standard". Sad, but true. I remember buying my BA XR6 new, and the paint was shocking. It was Mercury silver and looked like a 4 year old had done it. I'd take it back to the painter, tell him it's HIS reputation on the line, not Ford's. Word of mouth can make or break any business. Best of luck.

Play-Doh.???

Reckon Silver Fox was an Xdub colour. Like the charcoal grey idea, maybe gunmetal grey?

Been told the same from a Camshaft company, Crane I think. Street engines dont need them.

Agreed. Sounds like they don't want to do it.

Ando, those pumps are a push pump, not a pull pump. Must be mounted next to the tank and 'push' the fuel up to the engine bay. If it's mounted in the bay, they struggle to pull fuel up. Also fitting a filter with too fine a mesh, will cause the same issue.

OK. Tool.

There should be a mesh filter bag before the pump, (pick up). Can't go wrong with VDO. Dirt and debris will kill a pump, Some manufacturers wont honour a warranty if you didn't take the tank out and flush it. If you've ever done it and collected the shite that comes out, you'll know what I mean.

Noice.. ^ ^ ^

Fixed.

I always put mine in a cup of oil, (one at a time) and push up and down on it with an old pushrod. Whack 'em in, and Robert's ya Farvers bruvver.

A good panel shop can match even faded paint, with a little gizmo they put on the panel and it identifies the colour, saturation and hue of the paint. Then they download it to the computer, and presto.......!

Good idea. I used a push button for mine, down by my seat belt buckle. Hold the button, while turning the key. Had a switch to set it all back to normal, so when i put the car in for a radiator or window tint, It started as normal. Hid the switch in the boot.

Auto trans Nuetral start circuit. Put a switch in ..... job's done. Like trying to start your car in Drive.

Just my thoughts, go cheap on the carpets, engine mounts, etc. spend all your dough on a GOOD ignition system. It'll wake up your Clevo.!

Yep, that's them....... Aaah........, it's an XD

Morris Minor ?? Humber Super Snipe ??

Yep, like Stumper said. ^ ^ ^. You can use a screwdriver, but, BE CAREFUL !!! Alloy pistons, alloy head, Sparkplug threads, etc..... 2 man job would be best. Disconnect the battery FIRST, so no-one can crank the engine, accidentally. Wind the crank with a socket on the balancer bolt, hold the screwdriver free of the sprkplug threads and fully inserted in the plug hole. Slowly turn the engine over by hand, when the screwdriver stops rising, and both valves are closed, on No 1 cylinder, you are approximately at TDC. The physical stop is better and more accurate, but, if you're just checking to see if the balancer has slipped, this will do the trick.

XF/ZL also had issues with the inlet manifold warping along the length of the head. Again, causing vacuum leak. Overheating and rough idle, indicates timing is out, so as others have suggested check TDC is TDC. Rocker cover must seal well, too. Let us know if ya find out what it is.

Is the m/cyl exactly the same as the old one?? The diameter of the piston, inside, changes the force on the pedal as well. I dare say, that after 30 years, you could have had anything on there. Is it for disc/drum or 4 wheel discs? Smaller piston, more pressure at the wheels, larger piston equals harder pressure on the pedal. (25mm and over)

I've run a Carter fuel pump in the engine bay of the XB ute for years, noisy, but reliable.

Is it Ally or steel.??

Good stuff, Dan. ^ ^ Where do you get a "Thumbs up" icon ?

.......Adelaide will do that to ya.

Nah mate, I was agreeing with you. That comment sums it up for me. Love my Clevo. Great info, and some personal advice. Keep it up, mate.