bear351c

2 inch roof chop is needed....... .....and a 289.

I messed around with the speedo on my XB for ages with different drive gears etc, ended up ripping out the gauge and getting it recalibrated. Works sweet as now. Sorry, can't help with the Barra stuff. (No carby..LOL. )

Yeah, mate. Just been thinking about it, and doing some research. Would like to know if its worth it for a weekend cruiser. I thought about adding a plate on the inside of the shock tower to extend the 'double' skin, and cover the old holes.

Did you do this to the wags.??? How is it handling after a years abuse?? You didn't move the pivot holes back 1/8" (as suggested for 65-66 Mussies but not for 67-70's). Did it make any difference, or cause any issues.?? Did you have to 'massage' the inside of the towers at all, or grind the UCA on the corners.??

Gday all, just wondering what upgrades people have done to their Fords. Heard good and bad reviews about Hoppers and Wilwood kits, anyone use them, suggest someone else, got a good or bad opinion.?? Obviously I'm biased towards XA-B-C but would like to hear from anyone who has fitted these kits. Any mods needed? Didn't fit at all? After sales service? Cheers.

Thanks mate, all good info there. One of the reasons I started this thread was to hear from others. Especially those who have run the setup, bought parts, whether they bolt straight in, will they fit Oz Falcons, etc....

This may be the issue, then. Looks like you've done your homework, so your setup should be sweet. Would be nice to get FG or BA stuff to fit our old girls, in kit form.

A lot of chassis shops build racecars, and they can set your car on a jig, measure it all up, suggest roll bar settings etc. Just thought they could offer some advice, like changing the diff U bolts to 9/16" for added strength, that sort of thing.

Agreed, a well sorted leaf sprung rear end can be made to work extremely well. No tramp, no wheel spin, just squat and go. Having a look at the 2 pics, your buddys XY has the front tyre planted flat, and your XR looks like its starting to tuck under. Do you have a chassis shop/builder in your area.??

Buy your pistons first, (if ya need them) then the machine shop can measure each one and pick the largest to match the bore size. Yep, 40 thou is 1mm (approx) so a 0.020" cut would be 0.5mm, (or 10 thou each side of the cylinder.)

Double roller chain set, too. Had some love in the past. Didn't spend too much on oil changes though. ! Or T'stat is waaay too cold.

Has it ever started and ran...??

May have some luck at your local Pirtek or Enzed hydraulics store...??

Air, spark, fuel.......... Blocked air filter? Throttle body jammed? Any progress, mate?

POR15. (Paint Over Rust)

Xg and xh had distributors, the utes missed out on coil packs until au Thanks mate, not familiar with the late model stuff. Could it be a dicky module.?

Coil pack on these..??

Bugger....... Low coolant level.? In the old days, low coolant used to make the converter freeze over, ......... car stops.

Dumb question.........out of Gas.?? Is it dedicated Gas, piggy back injectors or throttle body? Not up to date with newer cars, mine are Carbies and Chrome.

Hmmm....... Maybe the pump is fooked.? Must run a continuous pressure line back to the tank. Do you have a regulator with a pressure gauge on it.? Could see the pressure drop.

Didn't think the fuel pump would run while you're on Gas? You sure it's not a uni joint, or wheel bearing etc..?

No, it's not rare. They made probably around 90% of clevelands 2V, so it's more rare than them, but, even the GT block was not that great. You can make a 2V the same standard as a GT with todays parts and technology.

https://www.hoppers.com.au/

And just to back up what gregaust said.......listen to the turbo yoda's explanation.

Agreed, The stock mounting position is crappy. I have seen them mounted down low, not sure how much work would involved, and figure it would all be custom made bracketry. Be nice if there was a kit, but, I'm just being a lazy fucker.......