mattymc

My xf was doing the same thing. The instructions for my twin headlights recommend running a 40 amp headlight relay instead of a 30 amp if you have issues with flickering. I would also check out all of your earths while you're at it. Another thing that I found is that if the connectors for the headlights are dirty or corroded this can also happen mine were full of dirt/mud after some off roading .

Looks like the general consensus is to make my own. Will google it to get an idea of what is required. Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Some awesome advice guys thanks. Will have to see what I can get easily. Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Cheers for the info Mr Polson. I did not realise that the factory ball joints were riveted in. I've heard of TRW and Protec before. Not so much Wasp. Will have a look into the different brands. Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

I'm looking at doing my upper and lower ball joints soon and wondered what brands people are having a good run out of?. Other than genuine ford items is there a good quality aftermarket brand?. Is there a certain brand to stay away from?. Hope all that makes sense.

Thanks gerg, I could not find the Jbs spring compressors must be looking in the wrong area. You wouldn't happen to have a link?. Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Would anyone be able to recommend a good quality strong set of coil spring compressors?. I need to swap the suspension on my Xf and want something that wont fail and try kill me. Don't want to spend a huge amount but I also don't want cheap crap that is hard to use and fails.

After a complete rewire of my injectors and sensors the car runs. The gas injection was interfering with things. I am using the factory ecu fuel pump relay right now but will try wire the haltech to control that as well. Thanks for all of the input and advice.

When I say power I have taken power strait from the battery via a fuse. I also have a switched 12v. I have researched relays and understand the pins but clearly I have missed something. I am running the factory fuel pump via a new relay. Possibly the way I am wiring things is not working with the factory wiring. Sorry if my questions sound dumb but I have been trying to sort this for ages. Electrical work is not my strong point but I have learnt heaps as I have progressed with this install. Thanks for your patience everyone. Below is a picture of how the haltech manual illustrates the fuel pump wiring.

I have tried all of the above and still no go. Now when the haltech is plugged in smartlock goes crazy and wont allow the car to crank. I think that I have an earth problem somewhere. I will have a look over all the wiring again tomorrow. One interesting thing is that the trigger wire for the haltech which should be a ground is getting 5 volts. Tomorrow is another day I guess

Awesome I will give that a crack tomorrow.

Thanks heaps fella's. I can see a few areas where I could have gone wrong. The haltech has it's own relay so if I run the power for the fuel pump relay from the haltech relay that might solve the issue. Also in regards to hard wiring the fuel pump. I have run a new wire from the pump relay to the + of the fuel pump connector. I have not touched the earth wire to the pump. Can I just ground the wire from the fuel pump to the chassis?.

I am in the process of wiring a haltech into my Ed and I can't figure out how to wire the fuel pump relay. The haltech grounds to activate the relay but I have tried everything and I can not get it to run the fuel pump. So I guess my question is, how do you wire up a relay to turn on when the wire on the haltech grounds it?. It is the only thing I need to finish off and it's driving me nuts. Can any electrical guru's shed some light?. Cheers