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I'm calling diff centre backlash for the clunk, clutch throw-out bearing for the rattle.

Strange, I had a Nolff's set-up on my Corty and apart from a little tweak to the mixture now and then I never touched it in the 6 years I had it. Turned over winter, summer, rain, frost whatever with a bump of the key. The needle adjustment on the mixer (it rides with the venturi needle) was shitloads better than the Impco ones that are just a bypass port. None of those i've seen have ever worked. I don't know if anyone's heard of Nolff's but it seemed like a very good system.

Where is the gas coming from? Is it coming out of the vent on the converter? Could be a holed diaphragm.

Hope it didn't cost too much Bear, in my experience anything automotive usually has the value of its contents tripled merely by having the word "kit" on it.

Gold or not gold depends on the colour of the car. I don't think the gold really goes with the silver paint, shame that the gunmetal isn't available in what you want. You could always paint them later I suppose. Choosing wheels is agonising. You could decide on one style then change your mind next week and again the week after.

I can vouch for the shitness of the oil system. On assembly I noticed there are only two holes in each head for oil drainback and three in the lifter valley. The stock capacity is only 4.5 litres or so and I noticed that the oil only needs to be down a litre or so before starvation is a problem. I saw it mostly coming off a freeway and rounding a bend at the end of the exit ramp. Gauge drops to zero for a few seconds then recovers. Freeway cruising in 4th with 3.27 diff gave 2700 rpm, enough to pump all the oil up to the top end and starve the pump.

After much talk and conjecture on here on how to build a crossy, it's nice to finally see someone actually screwing bits together to make a real one. Nice one Ando

Broken-wheel I think 1.5 hp per cube on a crossy is at the extreme end of the performance scale. I've met Adrian personally and can tell you that his car is a very neat streeter and not an all-out race car. If his aim is to boost performance and have some driveability (still possible with that cam) then one horse per cube would be more realistic. Even at that, some rpm would have to be on board to achieve it, again not something easily done with a stock bottom end. Realistically, I think 200 hp is a great achievement for a street crossy. It is after all more than a 50% increase over stock.

Yeah as the others said, looking good. It could have a bit more off from the sides of the guide boss so the air isn't pushed too far out from it, also the sharp corners off the front of it might be a bit turbulent. Other than that, as said already a bit more out of the throat wouldn't hurt.

Clevos have massive journals, plenty of meat there

Yeah looks good, they normally go for hundreds. Might want to mod it a bit further and tilt the stick toward the driver, as falcons are a wide car and first/second can be a bit of a reach. Says it came from USA but really could have come via there from China. Who knows... It might be ok. BTW a Crow 770 grind is 214/226 @ 0.050" on a 111 LSA. Lift at valve is 0.507" inlet, 0.514" exhaust on a 1.73 rocker (I calculated this out, as the catalogue lists lobe lift only, and that grind could go into any engine with any rocker ratio). So will be quite streetable with maybe a tiny bit of an idle.

I reckon you'll kick nine colours of shit out of an FTO. And even if you don't, it's still an FTO.... If they made a car out of two dropped pies, a burnt thong, a half-sucked mango and a hatful of assholes it would still be a better looking car than an FTO.

People that rubbish carbies know nothing about them. Ok so they are compromised and flawed compared to efi but just look at how many inputs an efi system has to work with. Then look at how many a carby gets. Two... throttle position and air flow. That's it. Ok three if you count the choke mechanism (manual or electric). From this, that "crude" metal contraption held on by 4 bolts is a self-contained device able to meter the right amount of fuel and air for all operating conditions. It does this using pure physics. Pretty fucking amazing if you ask me

A 200 hp crossy will make a great first engine. It will start on a winter's morning, not overheat, rattle, or need to idle at 2000 rpm. In a light XD body that's 14s, WRX territory. Anyway it sounds like you're more into corner-carving than 1/4 mile action so midrange is what you want. The cams already mentioned would be great for that. My baby clevo runs a 206/214 and the engine feels much bigger than it is. Good torque from 2000 to 4000, but pulls in 5th from 1000 rpm. The effect would be similar on a crossy if not a bit lower in the rpm band. Most cams bigger than 214 have too much lift for stock valve gear and springs. Limit max lift to 0.500" and all will be happy. Port flow drops off before this anyway. I think the one piece of advice that everybody will agree on is to make a plan, make the right one and stick to it. Changing your mind all the time will see the goal post always moving further away.

EA should be 3.50 first. A bit short for a diff any shorter than 3.27. I'd go 3.08 or 2.92 with that ratio box. 1st gives you 55ks at 5500 with 3.27 diff.

What T5 do you have Nath?

Yeah sorry Nath just talking shit as usual You need to run engine oil in them with a tube of Nulon G70. No gear oil here.... Here, no gear oil.

I've broken one but only after lots of clutchless changes day in, day out and fuck knows how many cars it was in before mine. Broke 2 teeth off second but kept driving anyway. I love those suckers... An Aussie engineering triumph. Great shift action (on a nice tight one) and great ratios in the V8 one. Agree with sly on the T5 vs SR subject. The single rail is a toploader design which makes it stronger than any equivalent GM shit. They like to leak but that's just chassis rust protection... They're looking after you see?

Not aware of any off-the-shelf pump pulleys being smaller but harmonic pulleys are readily available and would solve your problem Seeing as the crankshaft is where your rpm measurement comes from, the pulley reduction should be from here. This will slow the belt down along with the pump pulley. The one you linked to is very small, would reduce power assistance a lot at low engine speeds. May not be liveable on an everyday basis.

Nylock nut will melt, so I'd use the good old springy under the nut and never think about it again.

The distance between bolt holes should be kept to a minimum to just fit the bolts and nuts through and be able to spanner them up. Too far apart and your flange can distort and it's leak city. Also once you weld your pipe on, it pays to give the face a grind flat again as welding can distort it a bit. I use the side of a cut-off saw disc. Of course if you have a bit of pipe protruding from one of them, you can't do it. I'd give at least 15mm of flange face from ID to OD, enough to give a decent seal with whatever gasket/putty you want to run.

Yeah sorry you're right, EDs were the ones pictured just above. Funny how Ford could chop and change so quickly between two very similar wheel designs yet make the snowy for 300 years and slap it on everything.

Video production is rubbish but cool engine Start at 1:05

XPTCrossy had an ED Ghia V8 with those wheels. I reckon they'd scrub up nicely with some gold spokes and polished rims