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Nice bark to it! Snappy and crisp engine there too. I think I saw this a while back. One cam up from mine

Genies are great performance-wise, and sound tits but they use thin-wall tubing that fucks out in a few years. I'll never buy them myself. Needless to say... Never wrap them if you want them to last.

Look exactly like the Genies on my dad's XF.

Lol it's our dog... And no matter what you do, it won't shut the fuck up. Hence the negative opinion of it.

Ok had to put it here.....

It's pretty sedate at all speeds, but you definitely know it's a V8. Just to clarify, this is the "before" clip, with the shitty mufflers and 2-1/4" crimp bend pipes. The dog is a neurotic twat. I really hope, for my neighbours' sake, it doesn't bark like that all the time.

Yeah I just topped up the oil and probably leaked a shitload down the guides when sitting there draining down

Yes... The stupid mullet "dog"

Have a laugh at the smoky startup... This is why I want to do up the heads. Please ignore the shit animal barking. I want to strangle that fucking thing so bad...

Based on the theory that 6-3-1s are more expensive and complex than 6-2-1s, so if the latter is superior to the former, why would they bother? My personal take on it is that 6-3-1s are like 3 lots of 2-cyls each 360 deg apart. So a pulse from one scavenges another at exactly the same phase on each pairing of pipes. On a 6-2-1, a pulse from one pipe scavenges the other two at relative intervals of 240 and 480 deg, and only one of the other two cylinders can benefit from the pulse. So the scavenging effect is halved on a 6-2-1 and occurs both earlier and later either side of that on a 6-3-1. This could actually be of benefit on a higher rpm engine where timing the pulse earlier would have a more suitable resonant tune than that of a 6-3-1 system. I would say 6-3-1 for midrange, 6-2-1 for top end (if they are sized to flow enough). You might only be talking about 5 hp difference. All this is pure conjecture and neither I nor anyone on here has back-to-back dyno results to compare both types on the same engine, notwithstanding the possible differences in what design might be suitable for a particular engine tune. I call bullshit on any statement about tri-ys on a V8 being for scavenging. No cylinder is in phase with the one paired with it. The only truly scavenged set-up on a V8 is one paired like that on a Ford GT40. The bottom line is that any extractor design is better than a manifold. I'm sure this set shown here will do everything expected of it.

Nice long primaries, are 6-2-1 so scavenging isn't going to be the best, merges look smooth but cant tell for sure from outside. Look well made from what I can see. All mandrel bends and they've tried to keep them all the same length. Might be tight fit in the bay.

If it's just idle speed, that's unfortunately something you can't change without some sort of idle speed solenoid. Problem is there's no getting round the fact that cold engines are inefficient. Instead of the heat being used to turn the crank, a lot of it gets absorbed trying to heat up the cold block and head with lots of water in there too. If you go adjusting the idle speed to suit cold running, it will be too high once warm. Maybe a little canister purge solenoid off a jap car could be used to bypass the throttle using a switch, just as you'd use a fast-idle on your choke

I'll grab a vid of the current shitty system that although sounds good is a 2-1/4" with crimp bends and crap Berklee turbo mufflers and is more than 30 years old. Then I'll do an after vid with these new contraptions with 2-1/2" pipes. Now I'm a bit nervous.... with all this interest in the project I'm afraid of them sounding crap (which they may well do)

Please excuse the beer-coaster sketches Cut the front off two and the back off the other two: Welded together: Internals:

Gas on a stocker engine will give you great torque low and mid-range, and cost bugger all to run. E- series are stupid reliable if you keep the coolant up to them to help prevent any head gasket dramas. The wagon could then be pulled off the road to fix at your leisure.

Yep e-series are as good as the same. Au are bigger apparently. I think there is a difference between leaded and unleaded XF but not enough to notice. Thom can you confirm?

The last one looks to be the later one. Metric flywheel bolts I believe same as e-series and same seal too. Not sure on compatibility with earlier blocks in regards to seal design, etc.

Yes 3.9 is a pretty good clue. I don't think there would be much difference between the two without seeing them side by side except for the rod bolts (perhaps) being metric.

Ants I think GM cars run a lower pressure pump than Fords, so if by best steering feel you mean reduced assistance then that may be why.

Looks like that thing's been pretty hot. You could hacksaw the bent runners off and weld them back on in the right spot using an electric brazing rod or nickel one suitable for cast iron repair. Pre-heating is a must. Here's an engine build on a Ford 300 six where they broke part of the bellhousing face off and welded it (mind the ads, they get quite annoying): http://www.powernationtv.com/episode/EP2014-04/hopping-up-an-old-skool-six-part-2

We used Syntrans 75W/85 in ours, BA onwards. I think the thicker fluid has a damping effect but being synthetic, it isn't as "thick" as the equivalent mineral oil. Castrol also reckons this same oil is good as a heavy-duty substitute for ATF in manual boxes (ie T5s). Might consider that next time I drop the oil out. Always been a bit suss about using ATF in a manual for long-term wear.

"if you wanna rev it, Chev it..." Right? That's what all the Holden heads (or Ford haters) used to say back in the day but that statement says nothing except that you need to flog it to make power. Anyone wanting to rubbish Fords and Clevos just needs to look at the top contenders in Engine Masters then come back and say Fords are shit. People often forget the origins of the Clevo. It's basically a de-tuned race engine. Not perfect by any stretch as you could attest Ando but they are a whole generation ahead of the smallblock Chev. It was proven in Trans-Am racing when the Boss 302 always had 20 hp over anything else. It had GM scratching to make their own clevo head: Actually they were developed around the same time as the Boss but just couldn't make them work like Ford could.

A work colleague spins his clevo to 7500 in his stock class race boat and does so for very long periods (bridge to bridge). Never thrown a stock rod even at that rpm

Not so much a collision but an alternatve path. If the main gallery becomes a restriction (mainly when cold) then this other line is an express route for the oil to travel through. Once the two meet, then the oil flows through the path of least resistance. Pressure is the same in all directions, so the oil doesn't "collide", just meets and is pressurised at whatever pressure the relief is set at.

Clutch rattle happens with foot off clutch and mostly at idle. Neutral or in gear. Disappears as soon as pedal is pushed. Gear chatter in gearbox can also give that noise but happens at idle when in neutral and gearbox is warmed up. Does not happen when accelerating/decelerating or rpm is increased.