gerg

A lot of modern cars have torque-limiting software for the lower gears to prevent you breaking stuff in the driveline. Pretty much any car that's drive-by-wire has it. How else could they make a borgy diff live behind a 335 kW donk and auto box?

Pacemaker 6-3-1 into 2-1/2" pipes to a decent resonator, then offset glasspack just before the kick-up over the diff. Straight run to the tail pipe, or if you want quieter, drop it to 2-1/4 pipe (only if you're running a stock/mild engine) and add a little straight glasspack before the tip. This will kill any rasp you don't want. Using say a 2" twin tip can kill a bit of the boom if it's still a problem. Don't tuck the tip in too close to the body as this makes it noisy inside. Have it stick out past the bumper at least 2". I had a similar system on my Corty except the offset glasspack was after the diff and no more mufflers after that. It had presence but was very quiet at highway cruise speeds.

Yeah 600 is a little big even for a mild 302. 465 is near perfect for your application. 390 would work too. Used on trucks a lot in the states.

Sorry missed the bit where it says it runs on gas

Not fuel-pump related then. Does it fire when you give it something flammable down its guts? Have you tried clamping off the fuel return to eliminate a stuck fuel reg? If not these, sounds like ignition

I know on coupes they are rolled into the roof pressing and spot welded to the door frame. I can't imagine sedans being any different really. The drip rail on mine had rotted through all along on one side so a long time ago I ground them off and welded the roof to the window frame for a smooth look. If I knew how much coupes would eventually be worth, I would not have done that.

They used the same floor dimensions with some variations around the seat area. Wheelbase is the same, only big difference I can see is the tailpipe exit on e-series drops down with a bit of a dog-leg. Even if there are differences in the two exhausts, some slight mods will make it fit. I modded a set of coupe pipes to fit my wags with a couple of short extensions welded here and there.

Oh yesss yummy carnage

Syringes are easy to get... And very cheap. Not the most accurate way of measuring though. Don't go solid unless it's an all-out race engine. Hydraulic is a set-and-forget item that will still see 6000+ rpm no probs.

Love the random

Also comes down to diff ratio, higher the number the greater the torque multiplication to the axles. I reckon a 2.78 or 2.92 would be fine behind a manual if not abused. Shock loading is a different story... Sort of like resting a hammer on a glass table versus dropping it on there

I think you'll find that you'll have to go factory with those bolts as you want a snug fit on the shank to take up the slack. You don't want any rotational movement there. These bolts handle full tailshaft torque unlike the little 1/4" ones on the yoke type which just hold the straps in place.

Sorry can't be sure about that one but maybe M10 x 1.5... Anyone?

What E-series is it? Flat flange or yoke type?

As much as a set of gold snowies with good rubber?

I believe the grade used on factory systems is magnetic. It would also be of a grade that isn't too hard on stamping tools and dies from a production point of view.

Or 3 grand will get you a TKO and you'll never look back

Extractors and exhaust systems can't be made from pretty shiny stainless because it has poor fatigue resistance from heat cycling and vibration (too much chrome makes it brittle). It cracks easily. Factory systems run a grade that forms surface rust but won't rust through. It has enough give in it to not crack like shiny stuff does.

T5s have a steep helical cut into the gear teeth to make them quieter but this increases end thrust, putting a lot of stress on the thrust races and radially on gears and shafts too. There are gearsets available that are made with less or no helical and can reportedly handle 500ft-lb but are expensive and the straight-cut ones are noisy. Imagine a reverse gear whine in every gear.

Voltage drop in dashboard supply? It's certainly an XD-XE thing.

Horsepower doesn't break gearboxes, torque does.

Windsors sound nice

As a general rule, the taller the 1st gear, the higher the torque capacity. EA-EB1 1st is 3.50 EB2-EL is 3.25. T5Z was found in V8's and XR6Ts, has uprated bearings and 2.95 1st. These have a longer input shaft by 5/8". They also have a relocated shifter housing. They are a direct lift from the Mustang. I think AU- onwards used this kind of arrangement on both 6s and 8s but the 6s didn't get the T5Z gearset. BA had 3.35 1st, not sure of AU but could have been same.

One way to find out i guess! Probably won't be a problem if it's a drop-base type. 7448 lists as having 61 jets but from memory they have very large PVCRs (dunno exactly) hence bigpaulo's trick of downsizing with guitar strings shoved in. 38 squirters are huge for an engine that size, I'd try the stock 28s first.

The correct air cleaner is the biggest you can fit. I reckon that size you quoted is pretty small. Try around 10" if you can fit it, or an oval type. That Holley tune sounds fairly close to stock, which is a great place to start but you need to see what list number you have before settling on a tune or playing with bits of wire in the PVCRs. The info is easy to find in a search.