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In a nutshell, yes. The taller first gear (numerically smaller) ratio for a given gearbox type will have a higher torque capacity. As a happy accident of this, larger higher torque engines can tolerate (and benefit from) a taller first as they don't bog down like a smaller engine would, which would feel like you're taking off in second. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

As a general rule with gearboxes, the deeper the ratio in 1st, the lower the torque capacity. This is derived from the amount of reduction given by the input shaft gear to layshaft ratio. The deeper this ratio, the more torque multiplication happens internally and this will reduce the overall torque capacity of the box. So an XF-EA-EB1 will have 3.50 first (as mine does) and later ones will be a little taller (3.35 springs to mind). The T5Z has a 2.95 1st, not overly tall like the close ratio toploader or single rail variants but this plus a wider gear design increased the torque capacity to 310 lb-ft vs 265 for the normal ones. This makes them still marginal behind a large displacement small block though. Manual boxes are a niche market these days, so the few manufacturers left can basically name their price. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Good advice Bear, I'll add that the valve might be stuck from rust due to moisture getting in somehow, in which case the guide could chop out if there is pitting on the valve stem. It could also have a bend in it, causing it to bind at certain lifts. I have had a guide grab a valve on a fresh engine while on its maiden voyage (Mercedes bus) and it was a fault with whoever the reco'd of the head (guide too tight). Was one of the odd rockers on the valve that was stuck? Is it possible that they were replaced for the same reason? Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

If it fits in the hole and is the right ratio, can't go wrong... I don't think anyone cares about it being the right box for originality reasons. Most folks who care about matching numbers are only concerned with engine and chassis matching. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Sorry just re-read your post and realised the 7? Is the 2-digit year code, you were just eluding to a hypothetical year. Say it was 75DA, it doesn't mean the part was necessarily made then, it means the year that the part was first introduced. So if a part continued to be fitted unchanged many years later, it would still carry the original year that it was first installed. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

The first set of numbers is the Ford part, but that one doesn't make sense. Normally the US part number is letter-number-letter-letter, then specific part number, normally 4 digits, then 2 letters for design variation. The Aussie part numbers used to be the US one with AR (Australian Revision) added to it, then they came up with their own that had 2 digit year, then DA (Design Australia). Yours doesn't have the year before it. The 7003 is likely part number. The second set of numbers is the Borg Warner one, 0503 is for the single rail box, 009 is the variant (ratios, shifter and rail config). That variant, which with a Google search came up with OzFalcon as one of the first [emoji23] shows as a 3.06 first gear, meaning it's a medium ratio fitted to 302s and some 250s (depending on application, year model, etc). The wide ratio has 3.48 first, the close ratio (fitted to 351s) has 2.46. http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/7952-single-rail-gearbox-info/ Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

The stock diff will be a 25 spline, 2-pinion open centre with a 2.92 or 2.78 ratio, and drum brakes. Not exactly up to the punishment of a built V8 and stout manual box. Depending on how strict your motor certification rules are, you may or may not need discs in the back as they were mandatory on XD and XE V8 models, along with LSD. I converted mine to a 302 and did this diff swap. I would strongly advise getting the later, beefier 28-spline axle diff and LSD, as well as the disc brakes. EA-ED should bolt straight in. Mine still runs 25 spline and the axles are starting to twist (had one out the other day). Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Putting a V8 in an Aussie Falcon is pretty easy. Just engine mount plates and not sure about crossmember with a C4 but can't be too hard. Everything else should just drop in. Exhausts will be much easier with a Windsor, they are a lot smaller than a Clevo. Like Bear said, the range of cost is a big one because there are so many ways to go (wreckers engine, stock rebuilt, mild/moderate build, extreme build). Just remember that the more you spend on getting horsepower, the more you will spend on the rest of the car for it to handle it. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

The o-ring needs a smooth surface to seal on, so any grooves, scratches or gouges where it seats may be a leak point. It doesn't take much of a gap for oil to leak out at 1400psi. It could also be a failed swivel inside the hose end (depending on what type you have). Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

The actuator is set so that one direction is fully advanced, the other is fully retarded. The best compromise would be halfway, so if you had a means of locking out the timing there, that would put the valve timing at the midpoint of optimal between both extremes, probably will have good midrange. Locking it in fully retarded will give you more top end but will be soggy down low, fully advanced will give you more low end but the motor will hit a wall for power pretty early. Hooking up an rpm switch would work I guess. You'd just need to work out when the torque starts to drop off when it's in the advanced mode so you know when to swich to retarded mode. So if you were looking at a graph of the torque curve for both modes overlaid, you would watch for the point where they both cross, and that's where you would switch it. If you're running a BBM, you could use the signal from that solenoid to trigger a relay to switch valve timing as well. I would guess that the optimal changeover point would be roughly when the short runners kick in. If you had to do a farmer-spec (backyard) install, this would be the go. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Most accurate speedo is a GPS-based one on your phone. Best ones have a big digital display that is easy to read from a distance. Just download a free app and away you go. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Could also be sucking air in the shaft seal. Dunno where else it could be coming from. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Here we go...@Crazy2287 was the one https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/topic?url=http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/7595-diy-fuel-sender-conversion-for-factory-x-fal-cluster/&share_tid=7595&share_fid=64023&share_type=t&link_source=app Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

They aren't compatible. Up to XC were resistance type with a pivoting float, XD-XF were inductance type (no moving parts). The electronics are completely different between the two so unless the senders can be swapped, sounds like you're in a bit of a pickle. There was someone on here making a conversion box just as a bit of a project, but that sounds like more trouble than it's worth. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Where is it spitting out from? The front seal? The casing? The pressure fitting? The crimp on the pressure hose? Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

That's quite a mild cam for your application, should have unbelievable midrange and will be a great street motor. I think it'd be all done by 6000 rpm, and being a stroker, you wouldn't want to turn it too hard anyway. Headers look like they'll clear the slave cylinder and lines, so all good there. Here's mine

Ok I'll chime in, I did a T5 conversion a few years back and firstly I think my 6 cyl box is marginal behind even my mild 302. Unless yours is a T5Z, (specially made Ford high-torque version), you will make it go pop pretty quickly behind a 408 stroker. My money is on 3rd gear. To go hydraulic, you need the longer pedal shaft that pivots the brake and clutch pedals. I managed to swap mine without swapping the pedal box, but I had to cut a little corner off the heater box to get it in. I still would rather do that than swap a pedal box. The cable type pedal pivots on its own one that sits lower in the pedal box, normally a spot-welded plate and pin that goes in a punched hole in the LH side of the box. I converted an EF to manual by making up a pivot out of a gal bolt and bolting it through that hole with large washers each side. You will need more than this though, as I found out it was starting to crack the pedal box from the stress. I made up an extra brace that went from the other side of the pedal down to the firewall, bracing both sides. This worked fine until I got rid of the car. You can go cable on a V8, but you need a V8 cable bellhousing which I believe were only made in 157 tooth flywheel size, ie 302 Mustangs. Seeing as yours is based on a 351W, it will be 164 tooth, and will require a bellhousing to suit that. I don't think any 351s were ever cable (any F-truck experts here?) so I think your only option is to go hydraulic. Unless there is a way of fitting a 157 tooth flywheel with the right imbalance. Early ones were 28 Oz, later (post 82) were 50. Next is slave cylinder clearance. I have Tri-Ys on mine (I believe Genies or similar) and I had problems with the clutch line fitting coming in from below hitting one of the pipes. I just swapped the fitting and bleed nipple around so the fitting is up top, bleed is on the bottom. How do you get the air out you ask? Just pump it up, push the slave cylinder all the way back in, which pushes the air back up to the reservoir and then keep pumping pedal/pushing cylinder back till you get all the air out. Works fine for me. The bleed nipple is only there to plug the hole. I researched this countless times to come up with the cheapest/simplest way, I seriously looked at cable (as I didn't want to stuff around with pedal boxes) and I did go hydraulic in the end. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

They're a 10.3 deck, getting close to big block size. Conversely, wherever a 400 will fit, so will a big block [emoji51] Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

The twin Webber setup was common on many Group C V8s, Holdens had them as well pretty early on. The ruling was that the number of Venturi could not change from standard so they all did what all race teams do and interpret the rules to the maximum advantage. Twin 48s probably breathe better than a single double pumper and at the time, were able to be tuned for racing more easily than Holleys. Holdens also used downdrafts as well as side-drafts, depending on the team. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Great looking car, sounds glorious too. Looks like Dicky had trouble getting power down out of corners, but he had it sorted by Bathurst (should have won) Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Just fitted, started and ran it up to warm. Nice and quiet so far (for a clevo) Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

new ones size 16.8mm Proper size 14.2mm So skimmed off 2.6mm. Some turned out a bit smaller by 0.2mm (lathe isn't great, operator less so). No dramas as the hyd lifters will take it up. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Lol... Ain't that the truth. "Shoulda just left it stock" is the phrase that comes to mind often [emoji23] Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

You want to buy my car for the MSD curve? [emoji23] Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Haha not worth it now mate, roof is buggered and the whole car has been gergified [emoji23] Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk