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If using closed chambers, it will have massive compression (especially if going with zero deck pistons) so it will need a big cam to bleed off that compression at low to mid revs. If going with std down-the-hole pistons, that of course will drop the comp but it will then act like an open chamber, and won't make power as efficiently or take as much timing. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

So what's the game plan with this big old lump? What's your intended use and target horsepower? Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

The idiot light is normally set at around 5 psi, so if it comes on when you're into it, it's already too late. At idle is less damaging but still not good. Something tells me that 2 out of 2 "bad" oil pumps isn't an oil pump issue at all. I think there's something wrong elsewhere in the engine. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

I have said this elsewhere, but I'll repeat it for this discussion... I have an eBay alloy one in my V8 XE, so far going ok. I'd read up on them and longevity doesn't seem to be an issue if you run an earth lead from the core to the chassis. The biggest issue seems to be electrolysis (stray voltage in the coolant) also they say use water and plain inhibitor rather than glycol-based coolant. I would use rainwater if possible. Mine did have major fitment issues, not only dimension-wise but with quality of manufacture. The core was warped so that one tank was 20mm twisted from the other between the bottom tank ends, requiring one the bottom mounts to be shifted by that amount for the top tanks to sit ok. I got the one with pressed/stamped tanks which look nicer but I think the fabricated tank ones might fit better. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

That's pretty much what I got, not sure what revision it is (seems like -3 is common) but cheers for the heads-up on the plug. They do work loose over time but luckily I have Hume performance here in Sydney who will likely have those fiddly bits like meter block plugs, etc. The rebuild kits are a bit expensive, as the bowl and main body gaskets are specific to the 4165/4175 models. When you say the acc pump died, it could have just been something like the inlet check valve failing (common on the umbrella type) or some crap getting stuck in the check ball on the outlet. I like to wind a 1/4" nut down the filter stud and snug it to the lid of the carby to stop it from coming loose, for the reason you stated. That sucks what happened on yours by the way, I would hate to lose an engine from something so minor. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

That brings to mind the 3 different spreadbore manifolds that Ford Oz made from 76 onwards, the 4-hole XC one, (which is currently on my coupe), the open 2-hole and the funnelled-down dunny bowl one on the 302. The 2 latter ones would likely be from the same casting but just machined out differently in the plenum to suit. Mine started as the 302 one but as mentioned in other threads, was machined out by my brother where he discovered how hard the Aussie iron is in these manifolds. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

I can see how that would happen on an "air valve secondary" carby like that (backfire gets trapped under the secondary flap) and the resin body wouldn't tolerate much of an explosion I imagine. I'm curious as to why he reckoned a spreadbore Holley wouldn't suit a spreadbore Ford manifold though. I would have thought the opposite true, ie square onto a spread manifold isn't ideal. This sounds like it's definitely a thing Thanks Bear, got it for $200 which is pretty good for a Holley these days. People want "near new" money for old junk lately. Yeah throttle shaft is a bit of a worry, there is a fix for it but I'm hoping that this was one that someone drove for a bit, got frustrated with it and benched it for the rest of its life up to now. A well-setup TQ is supposed to be a great carby, up there with an equally sorted Rochester. They had their issues like leaking main jet wells (epoxy fixes them), warped main body (surface plate and wet/dry should sort that) and one thing I noticed with a crappy one I mistakenly bought as a teenager was the wear in the body where the vacuum piston goes that actuates the needles wears out and leaks too much air, causing the piston to stay up all the time and have the rods on "power" (rich) mode all the time. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Nope, 2V heads were an Aussie thing, because Ford US only saw V8s as being worthy of performance upgrades. To them, the 6 was the basic cooking model and if you want power, buy a V8. Pontiac tried to make a sweet OHC inline 6 but GM kinda self-sabotaged it because they didn't want it to upstage their V8 models in the end. There were inline 6 Ford nuts over there who'd go seeking out Aussie 2V heads to put on their motors, but in the last few years a mob (Classic Inlines I think) has tooled up and made basically a replica of the Aussie head but in alloy. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Nah mate, bore spacing and head bolts won't be the same, probably water jacket issues too. You'd think of these engines as a "big block 6". It would be like trying to bolt a clevo head onto a 460 Even bolting a crossy head onto an early log head 200 block is a task. Some crazy guys have done it in the States but gotta ask... Why? Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Ideal situation would be to have one of each, so you could grab the head off the 240 and plonk it in the 300 for an instant compression boost. With so many aftermarket cylinder heads available for other relatively low-volume engines (like Pontiacs and AMCs, etc), I'm surprised that someone hasn't done a cross-flow, Cleveland-based head for this engine family recently. There were millions of these things pumped out and have steadily built a cult following. It's much easier to make castings now with CAD, rapid prototyping and 3D printing of moulds, etc. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

This is gonna be good... I would love to play with one of them Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Yep I've heard things about that mob on more than one occasion Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

The manual cable type pedal box has a little pivot shaft and reinforcing plate spot welded to it, the auto pedal box just has a hole punched where the shaft would go on the manual version. I made up my own pivot on my EF pedal box that bolted into said punched hole. Without the reinforcing plate, the pedal box started fatiguing and cracking around the pivot after a few years. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

I think it might be to do with engine placement of the V8 vs 6, or parts availability of the V8 bellhousing (Mustang). The difference in input length is 5/8” (16mm) I believe. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

The question I had for you@Thom was what flywheel tooth count did the later E-series Windsors have? I seem to remember you saying that the BTR auto ones had the 164 tooth flexplate like a clevo (and were 50oz vs clevo 28) but were the manuals also 164 tooth or 157 (like the other small Windsors)? Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

So the last one went out (besides your own project)? Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

I'd just leave it in there, wouldn't worry about it every 3-4 days, more like 2 weeks and run it for 15-20 min each time (to get the engine warm and to charge it up). Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Should do, like I say, Ford small block bell pattern should be a no-brainer. Sounds like the bell is from an 80s F-truck. Although my search says it's for a 4-speed (maybe SROD?) If they happen to have the same gearbox pattern as a T5, you might be ok but not sure about input shaft length. E4 = 1984 TA = Truck 7505 = part number for bellhousing DA = revision Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

What 6 cyl T5 housing are you referring to? If it's the Aussie one, no it won't bolt to a V8. I believe the later US 250s used a V8 bolt pattern but I don't think they ever had T5s behind them. It would be handy to know if they actually did though. Later 289s, 302s, 351Ws and 302/351Cs and some very early 400s all use the small block bellhousing pattern, and are all interchangeable, except for very early 221/260/289s which had a 5-bolt mounting but they're so rare now that it doesn't even matter. What is important to get right is the flywheel tooth count. The flywheel and bellhousing have to match, otherwise the starter will be in the wrong spot to suit the flywheel diameter. If you happen to get a bellhousing with a starter mount on the passenger side, you may have header/manifold clearance issues with conventional pipes. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Even in trans-am racing, with a 5 litre size limit, the Chev DZ 302 vs Boss 302 (ie: apples for apples), the Ford had a 20hp advantage in race trim. Holdener built factory-correct test motors of each and the Ford made more power with much less cam. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

That pretty much goes for any build on an engine more than 30 years old though Bear, they simply weren't made with the metallurgy, and the aid of cad and stress test modelling like they are now. I don't know where one should draw the line as to when an engine design is no longer considered original... What would you call a factory 351W block with CHI heads, Eagle crank and rods, forged pistons, roller cam conversion, tunnel ram manifold, dry-sumped, serpentine belt drive... Is it a Clevor? It doesn't have actual Clevo heads though. But because it's a block cast in a Ford plant, it's still legit, despite nothing else being factory? It's a very grey area that I struggle to deal with myself. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

I think@Thom might have to chime in here. My understanding was that from EB V8 onwards, the longer input box was used. I always thought that 302 Windsors used a 157 tooth flywheel and bell (post 1965) but have since learnt that at least the aussie auto versions in the E-series used a 164 like clevos do. Now I can't say whether the manuals are 157 or 164 but whichever it is, will need the corresponding bellhousing. Make sure you have the right imbalance flywheel. Pre-1980 use 28 oz, after that it was 50. I had a similar issue adapting my EA T5 to my clevo. Input length was fine, but single rail bellhousings don't have a big enough mounting pad for the lower holes on the T5 to drill and tap for. So I went with a toploader bell that was for an F-truck with mechanical linkage clutch, and I had to make my own slave cylinder mount bracket. The outside of the snout (the bit that locates in the big hole in the bellhousing) has to be machined down 1.5mm to fit the toploader/single rail diameter. I looked for ages at the time, but there just wasn't a T5 bell that bolted up to a clevo or Windsor that wasn't the long input shaft type. I even enquired about importing a used mustang one with cable type fork, but that was too hard, and would have needed a 157 flywheel. In the end, I adapted the toploader one with silver-soldered studs in the top (the new holes were too close to the old ones to just drill and tap only) and drilled and tapped the bottom ones, all to suit the T5 pattern. This was the cheapest way of getting my existing EA T5 to bolt to the clevo. Only other option was going to be a CRS one which was too dear for me at the time. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Those ratios sound right, and yes the 6 cyl input shaft was the same all the way up until and including EL. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

I didn't know that, I thought it was all iron Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

And likely a factory block, seeing as aftermarket ones weren't around back then. Maybe a pillow... That was as good as it got though Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk