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I know that if you put concentrate in without first diluting, the pump can leak because glycol is too "slippery" or has a much lower surface tension than water, and can weep past the ceramic seal. Sent from my CPH2197 using Tapatalk

We used that stuff in Mercedes and MAN back at the gov't buses, granted they're mostly iron but I don't recall having any corrosion issues with any of the alloy or zinc components. Sent from my CPH2197 using Tapatalk

Pretty sure anything from EA onwards will bolt up@Thom ? Sent from my CPH2197 using Tapatalk

My dad's was an early build BA, his engine was pretty tired at 200k, I reckon valve seals were gone and that's why it was a little smokey on startup, etc. Maybe they sorted minor build issues later on? I dunno, he's not exactly easy on his gear. Sent from my CPH2197 using Tapatalk

Thom's basic formula for a gun OHC donk using factory parts is AU bottom end, EF head and EA cam. In NSW, it will need engineering, all emissions gear and the ECU that goes with an AU engine (or whatever block is used). It shouldn't be too hard if factory parts like mounts, crossmember, etc can be used. Sent from my CPH2197 using Tapatalk

But some of the waterways are fed by (tidal) creeks, others are just canals dug in from the ocean, which doesn't rise as much. Sent from my CPH2197 using Tapatalk

Are some of the salt-waterfront suburbs a bit better off than those near freshwater creeks, or is everywhere stuffed? Sent from my CPH2197 using Tapatalk

I saw some pics of Angelica St underwater, is that near you mate? Pretty damn scary those pics you put up! Sent from my CPH2197 using Tapatalk

I have a wide ratio, XF-EA T5 in mine behind a 302 and it is indeed a world class. It also has synchro on 1st (all T5s, WC or non-WC have it actually). The non-WC has a few clues as to its identity, the main one being the layshaft bearing on the front face of the box just being a plain roller type (with bronze thrust washers inside) identified externally by what looks like a welch plug turned inside out. The WC box has a tapered bearing here with a cast steel cap that forms the bearing cup for the race. From outside, it looks like the top of a small piston with a slight dish in it and the outer edge will be a machined finish. Non-WC takes a light (non-EP) gear oil, and has bronze syncros. WC takes red auto fluid and has fibre-lined steel syncros. Sent from my CPH2197 using Tapatalk

Actually it shouldn't run any richer than it does at cold startup. Can you get it to fire ok on aerostart (pull fuel pump fuse or relay)? Sent from my CPH2197 using Tapatalk

Do you think it might be a crook coolant temp sensor which is giving you a bum-steer, as in it wasn't the ECU after all? Sent from my CPH2197 using Tapatalk

That looks very similar to a Crow 21666 (the last one I had). Same 0.050" specs. Basically one up from a towing cam, but it looks like Elgins have a much longer ramp, like an OEM one would have. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

I'm pretty sure they are the same, the whole point of the 400 was to use as much tooling from the clevo as possible ie: the cam bore is the same space apart from the main journal. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Maybe the rich condition was causing a bad misfire which was showing as lean due to oxygen going through unburned? Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

That sucks mate, but wouldn't that make for a pig-rich top end as the secondaries open? Was that the cause of it falling on its face at 4500? Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Is your current one toast? Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Yeah 4500 doesn't sound right at all, the factory redline is 4800 and my old man's XF EFI could buzz to 5500 or so no probs (but that's TFI, not EST). Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

They might physically clear each other, but I like to keep as much air gap as possible to the starter. I've had a few issues with 250 crossy starters cracking on the solenoid cap because they sit too close to the manifold. Later ones have the solenoid at 90 deg instead of vertical, solved that issue. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Yeah like Dean said, verify with a separate gauge (a simple compressor gauge that goes to 200psi will work) that bullshit in doesn't equal bullshit out before stripping the engine, could be a dud sender as well. If you had it apart and the bearings (main, rod and cam) all looked ok, then oil pressure should be well within specs. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Here we go Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

My extractors are Tri-Y, so have a bit more clearance than a set of full tuned. Even at that, space is tight and steering box swaps are a pain ( jack engine off its mounts, etc). Starter motor clearance isnt a huge issue for me, I just went with a later 6-Cyl Bosch type as they're cheaper than the old heavy direct drive and are an easy fit with a small body. You need to watch drag link and Pitman Arm clearance to the solenoid terminal as the solenoid now points down at near 6 o'clock. The mods are simple. Just drill out the 8mm bolt holes to 3/8” and remove about 10mm of the casting on the pinion snout support on the lower edge, to clear the ring gear. I had a thread on the whole DIY process with pics but can't remember what section it's buried in. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

I have 3.45 gears I want to move on and will have a 25 spline LSD centre available once I swap in my 28. Dunno if that's the way you want to go or you're set on 28 as well. This 25 centre I have set up pretty tight, has pretty fresh carrier bearings too. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Obligatory "video not loading" comment Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Are you kidding? I can't believe they don't have a shock absorber on that design. That would have some really terrible harmonics, which I imagine would require a balance shaft, and kids we all know that balance shafts make baby Jesus cry Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Sorry, my basic math is wrong there. Difference in diameter is halved to get the throw increase, so basically you halve it, then double it to get stroke. So: Journal diameters: 2.311-2.100 = 0.211 difference Difference in pin centreline (throw) 0.211/2 = 0.1055 Difference in stroke: 0.1055 X 2 = 0.211 Total stroke: 0.211 + 4 = 4.211" So on a standard bore 400 with an offset ground 400 crank, the maximum theoretical displacement would be 423 ci Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk