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Oh dude.. sounds like your next project will involve those mounts, but I also heard that 429/460 drops straight in where a clevo goes, mounts and all. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

There's about 12 kg going from 351C to 400, probably a few in the wider manifold, heftier 400 crank worth a few more again, the block is taller of course but all done, for the sake of less than an extra cement bag over the front axle, 50 extra cubes is well worth it. Going up to a big block is a massive jump in weight. 351C - 550lbs 400/351M - 575lbs 429/460 - 720lbs Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Ok you got me bear [emoji23] All good advice here... I can vouch for that cam being a baby one. Good midrange punch with the narrow LSA, easy on rockers and springs with such low lift. I have that exact spec cam in my 302 but advanced 4 degrees (to give it better low down torque) but yes as mentioned, will nose over very sharply just after 5k. I would gather that you'd get 250 HP at the treads with this cam on a 351. My 302 got 196hp through a manual, on a mainline dyno (not as "happy" as other dynos generally) 40 thou is getting iffy on a clevo, most will advise never to go past 30, and on blocks this old, to get them sonic checked. It's extra expense, yes, but no point in doing even a light freshen-up if it's going to split a bore. 12.5 comp doesn't sound right to me. I know it will go up a bit with closed chambers vs open, but I think it's more like 10.5. You need to add in deck height, as most hypereutectic rebuilder pistons sit down the hole quite a bit so you add that to the effective chamber volume. Also piston dish has to be added. I have noticed that mine likes E10 the most out of all the fuels. It hates 91 (pings its arse off). 95 and 98 it runs ok, but drinks shitloads of each. We have to remember that fuels these days are 100% designed for fuel injection, and in the fuel companies' eyes, carburettors don't exist. Mine loves heaps of timing so I think a bit more comp will be ok. Mine sits at about 10:1 with a 0.025" head skim. If going up in cam size, comp will be even less of an issue for you. http://www.wallaceracing.com/cr_test2.php Have a play with that compression calculator. It's from a Pontiac specialist website but it works and their other calculators are pretty useful too. The dynamic comp calculator is great, this is what you build your engine around (using cam specs). Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

One of those "unexplainable" head fk moments... But maybe at some stage, for some reason, somebody mashed one into the flared seat to block that caliper off? I have come across some jobs where people have blocked off an air line going to a brake chamber on a truck, a "get you home" measure strictly and probably not a good idea in these days of transport safety regulation Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Here's another angle: a 408 stroker 351W bottom end with clevo heads. Stroker kits were comparable to buying and getting the stock bits machined, haven't priced them lately though. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Yeah we used to have one back at the buses. You attach a water hose to fill the reservoir, and an air hose with a pressure reducing valve to charge it, and a release valve to punch it through the system at high speed. It attached to one of the heater hoses from memory. You leave the bottom rad hose off and watch the s*** come flying out. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

G'day mate The powder is pretty expected, as the thermostat housing is normally die cast zinc and acts as an anode (sacrificial metal) in the cooling system. The rusty water is a bit of a worry but only a flush will reveal what corrosion/sediment is in the water jacket. I've found that once the oxygen in the water has reacted with the metal and has depleted, the amount of further corrosion in the water jacket diminishes. The radiator will likely need at least a service or re-core, replace all hoses and do the water pump. The ceramic seal inside it will likely be contaminated with rusty deposits. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

As they were an exclusive to Australia box, and only made for about 15 years give or take, it's unlikely that anyone has done a video for them. Great gearbox, just needed a 5th gear. They are fairly simple inside, but the layshaft from memory is very slightly tapered and needs to be pushed out the back of the casing, not the front. Trying to push it out the wrong way will mash the hole and it will flop around from then onwards. The layshaft is hollow and has a fixed shaft down the middle that the needle rollers run on, unlike many other boxes that have a solid layshaft with bearings at each end. Depending on how much experience you have with manuals, you may get too far into it and get discouraged once you see a colossal mass of parts in front of you. I would advise to set aside a large, long bench with plenty of space to lay out the parts in order of disassembly so you know exactly what sequence they go in. Why does the box need rebuilding? Synchros? Bearing noise? Sorry can't recommend a supplier for a kit, never needed one. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Could the low compression be from a big cam? You say the engine is relatively unknown, maybe that's why? Also, the rings could be a bit stuck in the grooves and not sealing well. And like Dean said, sounds like the bad cylinders are leaking through the valves, for both heads. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

What the fucken f***? Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Great info Jack, next radiator fill will be with rainwater [emoji41][emoji106] I've noticed that Ethylene Glycol (the toxic one) was set to be phased out with Proplylene Glycol (non-toxic) probably 20 years ago, at least in heavy diesel applications for liner cavitation, long-life and environmental reasons. PG is actually used as a food additive and in cosmetics, such is its low-toxicity nature. PG is a long-life coolant with 5 years being pretty standard. Back then, EG lasted only 2 years. Somehow now, the manufacturers have swung back to Ethylene Glycol and have made it into a 5-year coolant, yet the toxicity remains. Perhaps PG is too expensive? I hate to think what kind of environmental hazards are presented with an EG spill vs PG (pretty benign in comparison) They are definitely incompatible (hence the pink dye added to the concentrate) and there are catastrophic consequences for mixing the two. Like your coolant turning to jelly. But there isn't an industry standard for coolant colours and types, which further confuses the issue. For PG, I have seen blue, purple, punk and red. For EG, the majority are green/yellow but Toyota are set on having red despite it resembling many generic PG types. I would say Proplylene is a superior coolant in every way, but back in the early 2000s, a complete fill of a car would cost probably $150 with premix. Maybe though, the higher cost and incompatibility with EG have pushed it purely into the industrial market? That scenario is sort of like DOT 4 and DOT 5 brake fluids. 4 is a glycol based fluid, and 5 is silicone. To the uninformed, these could be easily mixed up yet they are highly incompatible. You hardly ever see DOT 5 except in racing cars. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

I have seen double-glazed roll-up windows (Scania) but otherwise, all the windows I've come across are toughened/safety glass. Maybe in a fixed position they would work, but I don't think laminated glass would deal with the stresses of a roll-up situation. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

I believe you can't cut tempered glass once it's gone through the tempering process. The shape needs to be cut/ground to it's final form, then tempered. It's not so much about the toughened bit (but that does help a lot), it's more about, in an accident, the glass breaking into small, manageable, less threatening cubes instead of deadly sharp flying shards that could kill or maim an occupant. Hence the term "safety glass". Old windscreens were made like this until laminated became the industry standard. The problem with safety glass is that one small chink in the corner of the glass sends the whole windscreen frosty with a million little cubes and visibility goes to zero. Not fun at freeway speeds. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Apologies, having a case of the Mondays. The 4 x 5/16” manifold bolts are the ones that clamp down around the exhaust crossover. On a stock manifold they're quite long, and they can be longer one side than the other. If your manifold has a different arrangement for the crossover, or is blanked off altogether, then those bolts will need to be much shorter than the stock ones, which appears to be how those ones in the packet are. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Most aftermarket carbies have a universal SAE pattern. The studs/bolts are 5/16” UNC (course), only the length matters when either bolting directly to the manifold or using a spacer. Normally, for ease of removal/installation, studs and nuts are used. This keeps any gaskets/plates in place while installing. Those bolts you have are also used when an adaptor is installed and the bolts are recessed under the carby. They should work if the length doesn't cause them to bottom out in the bolt holes. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Are they catching on the 1st latch or the 2nd? Door locks have 2 positions as a safety feature so if they're not shut all the way, there's a backup position to prevent the door from flying open. You might only be catching on the 1st latch. If the catch sits too far in, the door can't quite latch in the fully closed position (2nd latch) and bounce back to the 1st one. Old door seals can add to this problem as the closing action relies on the resistance in the rubber to act as a buffer for the door to close against. With collapsed rubber, the door tends to bounce and rattle and gives the latch a hard time. When working with worn components, it's much more of a tail-chasing exercise to get it all working right. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Did you get there in the end? Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

If the panel gaps are good, adjust the striker up/down/in/out to get it closing sweet. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

When I put my panels back on my wagon, the doors took ages but when I finally got them right, the guards were way out and I had to slot a couple of bolt holes to get them right. And then, the scuttle and bonnet ended up with about 10mm of gap to the guards. It looked wrong but it was the best I could do without chopping something. I just got used to it. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Yes fordman, very true and I forgot to mention this important aspect. I discovered that even a V8 in a wagon has resonant issues that utes and sedans don't, due to the extended cabin area being right over the exhaust outlet with no buffer area like a boot, rear seat or bulkhead to absorb the sound Btw, that's a snappy donk you have there. Hope you get it sorted to run in its prime. I'm predicting mid 14s with the right converter, sharp C4 and hooking up nice Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

There is no easy method, just lots of trial and error. You need to line up the opening end with the striker and get it closing nicely, make sure your gaps are ok. Look at your window frame and make sure it's making good contact with the seal. If the seal is old, a bit of silicone spray helps the door shut more easily without force. If you can't get it to latch nicely but your body lines are good, you will need to play around with the striker adjustment. Once you have it shutting nicely and body lines matching, you might have to move the guard in or out to line it up again, and this then messes up your panel gap to the bonnet. These cars weren't very accurate with panel gaps so you really need to just live with the compromise between the door lining up with the body and the bonnet shut line being too wide. The very last thing you want is for the door to not shut properly and have water come in the cabin. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Pipe size should be calculated on engine horsepower, not displacement. 2.5" is ok for 200hp, but you need to add an extra half inch for every additional 100hp. So a mega-stout crossy making 300hp should have a minimum of a 3" single system. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

I've had both, but in my opinion, 6-3-1 sounds more sporty as the pulses are separated for longer before joining. The pipes are grouped very differently between the two types. With the 6-3-1, numbers 1 & 6, 2 & 5, 3 & 4 are paired respectively, so if you observe the inline 6 firing order, each pair is 360 crank degrees apart from each other. This gives maximum scavenging and does it more evenly. Each opposite pulse helps scavenge its paired cylinder. With the 6-2-1, there are 2 groups of 3 cylinders with 240 crank degrees between them, and each exhaust pulse from one cylinder sees two scavenge pulses from the other two at 240 and 480 degrees. Depending on the tuned length, there could theoretically be two optimum rpm points where the scavenging effect is ideal, but grouping 3 cylinders together might result in a bit of overlap and work against that effect when compared to the 6-3-1 design. Regarding sound, there is only a subtle difference and hardly worth worrying about, but my dad's XF had the first set I'd heard and I still remember how it sounds, 25 years later. I think the 6-3-1 is better at higher rpm and you can hear the engine come "on-song" more compared to a 6-2-1 header. Sure, you can lengthen the secondaries on the 6-2-1s to dial them in, and folks on here have had great success using this method, but to just go and bolt on a set and drive away, 6-3-1s are the go. Really, the only arguments against going with 6-3-1s is clearance, and extra cost. I seem to remember Pacemakers only having about $40 price difference, going back a bit though. The biggest factor in exhaust sound is always the muffler. If you choose to go with a chambered type on a 6, you'll need to run a resonator or two with it, otherwise it will drone like a bitch. I have had better success with a straight-through type glasspack which gave a nice presence but was quiet on the open road. 6-2-1 headers, 2.5 system, resonator (basically a hotdog without the packing) and an offset glasspack (side in, centre out). That was on my Cortina and was a great system. Conversely, when I bought my XE wagon, it was a 6 and had 6-2-1 headers, 2.25 pipes and a turbo-style muffler with a hotdog at the rear. It droned like a mofo, right at the 2100rpm mark where crossies often do. The V8 I put in was quieter. Don't be fooled by people telling you the pipe size is too big. Any back pressure is bad. People who say that an engine needs back-pressure to run nicely are probably comparing that to open headers, which often don't perform as well as headers with a tuned pipe/collector fitted. That's a pulse tuning issue, not back-pressure. Smaller pipes are louder. Go as big as you can squeeze in there, and it will cruise sweet but give some bark when you mash it. Small pipes drone and resonate badly. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Would need an engineer's to fit into a mk1, so more expense. I'm wondering if there's a way of mixing and matching Kent bits to make a nice little gun engine. The old Formula Ford crowd would know a thing or two about getting the 1600 to boogie, but without the strict constraints of the class. They're a pretty tough engine too apparently, and many competition engines were based on its architecture. Cosworth BDA, FVA, lots more.... even the V8 DFV F1 engine were all based on the Kent design. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk