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The body colour behind the grille, wheelarches, wherever else shouldn't be body colour has always bugged me (particularly with brighter colours) on many builds in the past. It's like seeing through to the car's internal organs. Good move to black it out. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Looking at the plate, if "Y" means the same on an XY as an XB, it will be a 302 2-barrel (despite the XB being a Clevo not Windsor), which is what it appears to be in the pic. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Nah what I mean is if the engine is matching to chassis, value of said engine goes up stupidly. Otherwise it's just a V8-swapped wagon like mine (very easy to do on a Ford). Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Depends if it's matching numbers Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Mag wheel cleaner might have done the trick too, but that's getting hard to find now as most (if not all) wheels come clear coated now. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Maybe try some garnet? Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

The green might be epoxy, that shite is indestructable Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Well that's a plus, hopefully the guides are still fresh. Good thing that the factory valves are gone, they have the occasional tendency to pop their heads off with any sort of valve spring upgrades and rpm. With any luck, you scored better valvesprings too but if not, now's the time to upgrade. Factory ones are poo. Mine used to float above 5k rpm with only the baby cam. I got lucky with mine, valves came up good and the heads already had hardened seats put in and k-lines in the guides. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

I don't think Ford would've liked to assemble engines locally that they're not familiar with just to put their own heads in them, and a very small number too. Not even sure if Ford Oz even imported them or if they just came here in various US import cars. I think all 400s that made it here would have come as complete engines, and those heads you have were likely fitted at a later date... Don't forget, there's nearly 50 years for that to have happened throughout the engines life now. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

I can't find any decent info on when we stopped importing blocks and started making them here. I know any 302C had at least Aussie heads from the start as they're all closed 2Vs. But any part number starting with "AR" is Aussie as it stands for "Australian Revision", then the US part number on which it was based comes after that. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Those are Aussie part numbers... These are probably Aussie 351 heads Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Actually@FORD_MAN I think you're right there. The difference is length. Clevos are something like 5.780 and Windsors are 5.955". 302Cs are 6.030.l Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

I've never worked out why clevos sound different, they use the same firing order as the "mustang" type Windsors and later 351s, also 4.6 and 5.4 modulars, maybe it's the way they breathe at high rpm, I dunno. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

I too have thought of doing a sweet mini stroker 302, You could do it using 351W rods on an offset ground 302 crank.... Theoretically, but the amount that machine shops want for that kind of work makes it unviable. I understand that the Cleveland was originally intended to be around that displacement, hence the "335 series" name that Ford officially gave it back in the day. I believe that it came from having a 3.35" stroke which on a 4" bore would have given 337 cubes (rounded off). Many chev guys say that the 327 was the sweetest factory small block displacement, if not the most powerful. Sort of like the 186 vs 202. Bonus useless info: There is conjecture that Clevos were designed to be a marine engine as well, with the integral timing cover eliminating many gaskets (and leak points) at the front of the engine. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

In that case can you get a set with a gentle dome on them? I think the cheapest/easiest path is to use the right pistons, even if they have to be custom, instead of trying to use ones for something else and having to do a whole bunch of work-arounds to make them fit Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Gudgeon pins are different between Clevos and Ms, so the piston would need to be bushed down. So, even more expense on top of the piston price... Thanks Ford for changing sht that should have all been the same Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Clevos have 2.75" journals, 400M and 351W have 3". I think the bolt spacings on the main caps are the same. There's only 0.125" difference in distance from the tunnel bore to the main caps bolt hole each side. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

I'm guessing no unless they're made to also fit stroker cranks. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Is it just me or has that had a sleeve already? Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

I think people just didn't rate the 400 with any performance value, with it being a smog motor almost its whole life, it would have just been scrapped along with whatever wreck it was in at the junk yard. Only now, with the good clevo alloy heads coming in, have they been able to wake them up and make the power they always should have done. There was a decent amount made in the 11 or so years they were offered, much more than that of clevos, which were only made for 4 years in the States. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

I think going for a modern "boss", either with stock clevo iron or alloys is not necessary now, unless you really want the boss look. There are dozens of aftermarket Windsor heads that are equal to or better than any Clevo style head, which make for a tighter and lighter package... and have a huge selection of manifolds to suit. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Sure that would work, it won't make it shiny though. It will give a dull, "as cast" finish. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

I only got that kit because I have a Karcher already. It does a pretty good job and makes a lot less mess and noise than air blasting, and the fine sand particles once they've impacted the job are captive in the water as opposed to floating around in the air and screwing people's lungs. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

The manifold came up pretty good, what did you use on that? Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

I reckon a stock, balanced bottom end on a 302C would deal with at least 7500 rpm no problem, probably better than a 302W due to the taller deck and longer rods, bigger 3/8" rod bolts (vs 5/16”), bigger big end and main journals for crank stiffness. Only drawback I can see is more rotating and reciprocating weight. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk