gerg

Yep completely doable but for the sake of 4 bolts on the gearbox I'd just separate them. Otherwise, you need some serious angle and height on the engine/box to clear everything, not easy with some smaller engine hoists and with the front end up on ramps/stands.

CG was the same prefix as on my Corty engine. Aussie-built Falcons started with "JG". Up until the phase-out of the TF, the blocks were cast with both dipstick pads, the front one drilled for Falcons and both front and rear ones for Cortinas, with the front one plugged with a ball bearing.

Ah well, here's hoping that this one I just bought is a limo... Would save a lot of stuffing around! Any thoughts on hand brake cables?

I went to the wreckers yesterday and found that utes/vans seemed to have 3.27 whereas wagons had 3.23. None were LSD of course, they don't last long in that place. I don't even know if wagons came with LSD except maybe with heavy tow pack or V8 option. And you never know if someone's swapped a diff over some time in the vehicle's life.

With gas it's near impossible to determine if you're rich or lean, as they both show similar symptoms. Have you checked your coolant level? If you have an air pocket in your converter, it will supply the mixer with liquid not gas, as the converter needs to be hot to do its job of converting. Your mixer is of course made to mix gas with air so running liquid into it will flood the engine. I had this happen on my Cortina when I had a radiator leak.

Thanks n00bus great info. Just when you thought Ford had some kind of system going... I'm guessing those special 0575 centres were for highway patrol 351 XDs with 2.78 gears and LSD.

Thanks mate, I've done up a couple of Borgies before and of course I plan on using new bearings throughout. Just checking interchangeability that's all. My 2.92 LSD is out of an EA S-Pack so is only 2-pinion, therefore it's a 25-spline... Only 4-pinion centres have 28-splines, right?

People run Powerglides in drag racing because they are very strong, quite simple and have been around for a very long time. They also take slightly less power to turn due to having less moving parts/friction. It's kind of like the smallblock Chev. They're not necessarily the best outright choice. Everyone uses them because so many bits are available because.... everyone uses them! The folks that build them know all the hot-up tricks, and after 50 or so years of doing it, you should think so. Yes top gear is 1:1 in non-overdrive auto boxes. In a Powerglide, converter choice is most critical as you only have 2 gears, so if your engine falls off the boil, you're stuck in a hole until it picks up again. Lighter cars are less susceptible to bogging down but the lack of ratios would certainly do this in a big car. They're popular in lightweight cars or this reason, and with turbo rotaries especially. The tall first gear gives a softer launch so the car doesn't spit itself stupid into the wall. Powerglides are rubbish on a street car. Say you're driving up a hill on the highway and need to overtake. You knock it back to low, and it either doesn't go back (too fast) or it does and the engine screams it's tits off, just to overtake!

Your gas relay should have a priming function that turns the solenoids on for a second or two when you turn ignition on. Having a separate switch to turn on the solenoids would be illegal as you are bypassing a safety interlock designed to switch off when the engine cuts out. There's either something wrong with the gas relay that's stopping it from giving it a prime or your tuning is a bit out. My LPG Corty would start first kick, winter, summer, stinking hot or icy cold with barely a revolution of the crank. You can get them pretty good if you play with them and all the gear is up to scratch. I didn't get what mixer you have.

I say go for it, but if you're doing a 6 cyl, they're critical in muffler placement in order to not get droning and booming at highway speed. V8s are much more forgiving I think.

Very interested... Even the first series Barra had 182 kW, more than any post-emissions Ford V8 up until EBGT. One of them in a lightweight x-series would go like a cut cat. I reckon 13s would be achievable, as a standard XD weighed only 1340 kg, roughly 300 kg lighter than a BA. A few things come to mind though: - if going to gas, the power will be much less. An LPG Barra engine makes a little over 150 kw. You could easily get this and more from an e-series donk if worked properly. - there are much less go-fast bits available for n/a Barra motors. - you'd have to do something about the VCT on the Barra, either lock the cams permanently (some turbo guys do it) or run an aftermarket ecu that is capable of running them, but then you'd have to tune them. You could also just run the stock ecu and wiring. - you'll need to run a cat.

If the bellhousing's bolted up, why not bolt the starter on and bump it over?

Great info Thom, you're a wealth of knowledge.

Cam lobes:<br /><br /><br /><br />I retract anything bad that I said about Dynotec cams, as it seems it stood up to punishment quite well considering how bad the lifters are. I apologise if gave anyone the wrong impression. I also found that the blanks used for Dynotec are the same as Crow's, and with the latter being a reputable brand, I'd suspect that they'd use something decent. One had a casting mark of "CW1" and the other "CW2", everything else looked identical.<br /><br />So there you have it... Rubbish lifters can cost you much more than maybe 30 bucks in what you save on a good quality set. I'll stress that I did not buy the originals, they just came with the engine. The new Crow cam got a set of Johnson Hilifts (made in USA).

I've got a little over 1000 km on my new 302, and have a persistent tick and slight misfire from one cylinder. I found the source, pulled out the loose lifter and I found that i have a chipped lobe on #7 inlet. This chip has caused the lifter face to chew out, loosing preload and hence the clack-clack sound. The cam will obviously need replacing, so I was wondering what brands people have had a good run out of. I'm pretty happy with the performance of the current grind. It's a 208/208 @ 0.050, 110 LSA from Dynotec, seems to be a copy of Crow's one of identical spec. I'm especially happy with the torque. I might skip this brand next time, as it was a cheapy ($140 delivered) but not sure of quality of materials now. I might even go with a 204/213, just has to be under 0.500" lift due to standard rockers. So what brand does everyone recommend?

Here's some pics of the stuffed bits:<br /><br />2 of the worst lifters (but all of them were cactus):<br /><br /><br />

Oh by the way, my brother's got complete EA and EF motors, both running but suit rebuild, unused 0.20" oversize forgies for the EA. Make an offer.

Yep good combo... And believe it or not, EA cams are slightly bigger. That is, apart from XR6. Regardless, Crow makes cams for them so plenty of choice anyway.

I'm thinking that although the pump might be noisy, it's not the problem. My brand new Goss unit was a bit /squeaky but came good after a short while. Like you said, if it was a diaphragm sucking air, then it would be pushing fuel out also, as the diaphragm strokes up/down it encounters both suction and pressure. You could well have a blockage in the tank. A mate had this problem with his XU1, now and then the car would just sputter and die and after pulling his hair out looking for the problem shone the torch down the filler neck and just happened to see a piece of something float past and after pulling the tank out, found it was a bit of masking tape from a respray the car had long ago. It would float around and then randomly get sucked up by the pickup. It can be annoying, weird things like this that can have you scratching your head for weeks/months. I'd start with the absolute basics and go from there.

Awesome! Looks like we all kicked a goal... You sorted your Holley and I finally worked out how to post pics from my phone.

Ok you can stop now

This is getting ridiculous

Would you believe quadrouple post?

Ok triple post

Oops double post