Jump to content
Server maintenance Read more... ×

gerg

Members
  • Content Count

    9,904
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    108

Everything posted by gerg

  1. gerg

    Recommend me a carb for my xflow.

    Annulars are a completely different design to the standard and drop-leg boosters you find in the classic old Holleys that we're familiar with. The standard booster is a mini-Venturi with a discharge hole that the fuel mixture more or less spills out of whe under load. It relies on the air rushing past it to atomise the fuel coming out, and is most effective at higher flow/rpm. At lower flow rates, atomisation is pretty poor so to compensate, bigger jets/more fuel is needed. Also, the booster requires air rushing past to draw fuel out through the jet, and at low flow, the booster signal is poor. Think of it like a spray gun. At maximum trigger, the paint flows nicely, but just crack it open slightly, and paint will barely dribble out. A standard booster is like this, with only one hole to draw fuel through. An annular booster is sometimes called a "banjo" type. It has a hollow tube to connect it to the carb body just like a standard one, but instead of discharging though one hole, its Venturi is hollow and has tiny holes all the way around it on the bottom that discharge fuel evenly and finely, even from low rpm/flow. The venturi comes in two pieces: the banjo and the insert. The insert is available with different numbers of holes from 8 to 16, depending on application. The increased discharge area creates a stronger vacuum signal that draws fuel harder from the jet and also comes in earlier. For this reason and for the fact that atomization is better, you need to drop a few jet sizes (I've heard of up to 5). They come standard in some brand new Holleys like the 570 truck avenger. They make an oversized carby "feel" smaller in operation. They were originally a Ford/Autolite booster design that came in their 4100 series carbs. It wasn't until Ford stopped making these carbies that Holley took over the design and used them in their own version of the Autolite. They were also available in the Dominator range of race carbies, which needed the benefit of low-speed booster signal, being so ridiculously big. Nowdays, you can get aftermarket annular boosters to fit the classic Holleys that were never originally made with them, which is what I did. You either need to get the boosters installed by a specialised Holley shop or make up a swaging tool like I did.
  2. gerg

    Recommend me a carb for my xflow.

    Make sure you follow up on this Slydog, I'd love to see this setup. Would be a sight to behold. On jetting, I'd reckon bigger than stock is needed as individual runners get a "pulsed" signal only 25% of the time (one stroke out of 4) so jetting may need to be bigger than expected. Also BG carbies have easily replaceable boosters, so you could experiment with different designs to get best performance. I highly recommend annulars as I fitted them to my 600. It feels like an EFI motor to drive. Mcfly on the subject of annulars, you could get a 350 modified with annulars to give better torque and efficiency. Needs smaller jets too.
  3. gerg

    LPG or Petrol???

    If building for LPG, I'd go with 4V heads. LPG needs more breathing ability than petrol to make the same power. Velocity through the Venturi and thus fuel atomisation is not an issue with LPG, so bigger is always better. Use an open plenum single plane intake, with twin mixers if possible. Closed-chamber heads and 11:1 comp, 302 rods with 4ma crank. STD volume oil pump. I have little info on what cam to use but I'd say you could go fairly lumpy and the gas will tame it somewhat. Something like a comp 270h, 280h or equivalent will be fine.
  4. gerg

    cams

    Yeah "stages" were simply a marketing method for those who couldn't grasp the concept of cam specs. It seemed to be around most in the 80s and 90s. Stage 1 was a towing cam, 2 was mild performance, and 3 was a hot street grind that was as big as you could comfortably go without it being a pig. 4 & 5 were "race" cams With great advances in camshaft design and computer software, they could no longer just lump each performance cam into one group. Nowdays, if you look at a cam website, for a given engine type there are more than 5 cams just for mild street engines, and it goes up from there. There's more than 15 or so for Clevelands in Crow's catalogue. The description of the cam says it all, no need to decipher the figures too much.
  5. gerg

    Gauge Cluster Identification

    I'm referring to XD/E cluster, but I'm not sure if others are similar. Definitely not XF, as they never had V8s.
  6. gerg

    Gauge Cluster Identification

    I'm using a 6 cyl cluster with my v8. There's a trimpot down the side of the tacho that you adjust the rpm with. Even without calibration gear you can get it fairly close. To get you in the ballpark, set your fast idle up to show 2000 rpm on the 6 cyl setting. Adjust the trimpot so at this engine rpm the tacho now shows 1500. Congrats, you now have a V8 tacho.
  7. gerg

    Straight gas 4L conversion.

    Injector holes: if you can't find welsh plugs to suit, you could drill and tap for BSP/NPT Allen key plugs.
  8. gerg

    Straight gas 4L conversion.

    Speedway blokes use the CFI manifold on crossies, but I reckon the std 3.9-4.0 EFI log manifold would be superior for LPG, with much bigger plenum volume.
  9. gerg

    Straight gas 4L conversion.

    That's a handy one to know. Also, I'm not sure about e-series but crossies take a Holden 308 head stud.
  10. gerg

    Straight gas 4L conversion.

    It's not a Nolff's is it? I had one on my Corty, but a 300. Great carby, I'd actually rate them over an impco, better idle adjustment. 225 is painfully small though, especially for gas. You need double this for LPG for any kind of performance.
  11. gerg

    Straight gas 4L conversion.

    My EF did a head gasket this way. I have 2 theories as to why this happens: 1) engine cooks (for whatever reason), head warps, breaks a stud and loses tension in that area, head gasket blows. 2) head gasket weeps coolant next to a stud, corrodes on the threaded part and snaps at that point, gasket fails. With you being the OHC guy, which one is more likely? One thing is almost certain: if you blow a gasket on an E-series, you'll likely find a broken head bolt/stud next to the blown area, like I did. Also I found that when un-doing the bolts, they vary greatly in tension: some bloody tight, others nearly finger tight. I think these heads are prone to warpage. Crossies also.
  12. gerg

    cams

    My engine's still pretty tight at 5000 km, economy was shocking initially (30L/100) but has settled down to around 15L/100km city/freeway. I'm running a 600 vac sec Holley with annular boosters in the primaries and 62 jets. Goes ok, wagons are pretty heavy and E10 is crap when you wanna nail it... Pings its head off, but when you back off the timing enough, it goes like a busted fart. I reckon headers will wake it up a lot, but there are only so many dollars in a pay packet.
  13. gerg

    cams

    How about we all give each other a nice big hug and get on with talking car shit?
  14. gerg

    cams

    My 302 has a Crow 206/214 @ 0.050", might be a little mild for what you want. Torque is great, comes in at 2000, really starts to come alive at 3500, and it's all over by 5500, though I'm running stock manifolds and dual 2-1/4" pipes. I'd suggest running a diff ratio shorter than 2.92 as for me, it's too tall and I get caught off the boil too much when driving in the suburbs, especially with a manual box. I'm about to fit a 3.27, which should bring it to life a bit. Next step up in cams is 214/214 @ 0.050". Any more than this and you'll start to have a big hole in your torque curve, and remember everything happens a few hundred rpm later in a 302 than in a 351.
  15. gerg

    What causes camber wear?

    You lowered it, right? Maybe your suspension angles are screwy, ie your upper control arms are sloping upwards at static ride height, and on compression, slope even further causing camber to go more negative. At stock ride height, the upper and lower should sit roughly level with the ground. As you lower it, both arms start sloping upward but the top arm, being shorter, slopes more. This causes the top of the spindle to pull in towards the car and thus you're getting neg camber. You should forget about getting the wheels aligned at that place. It's obvious that it's not achieving what the car really needs. look at it this way... If you're hungry, you eat. If your pot plant looks a bit sad, water it. If your tyres are showing wear on the inside, forget what the factory settings should be, just give them less neg camber. Every car is different, every driver has differing needs. I like lots of caster, a bit of camber but not much, and a wee bit of toe-in. If you run out of adjustment on the lower arm, shim out the top arm. If your wheel aligner doesn't know what to do about that, maybe it's time to find another, let him play with other strut front wheel drives and charge 50 bucks to do a 5 min toe-in/out adjustment, or do it your bloody self... What do you have to lose? Another set of tyres? What tyres are you running by the way? If they're low profiles, they definitely need less camber. This is the whole point of low-profile tyres. The stock, 14-in 195/65s have tall sidewalls that flex when cornering, tipping the tread over and running on one side of it. To counter this, a bit of neg camber is dialled in to keep more of the tread on the road on cornering. Go upgrading to 17s or something and there is nowhere near as much sidewall flex, so there's less to compensate for with camber. Again, i stress that you just need to read what the car wants, and the tread wear is the best indication. Screw the manual, these cars don't come from the factory lowered 2-1/2 inches.
  16. gerg

    squealing wheel

    Hey Adrian if your disc has no drag on it then your caliper hasn't seized, sounds like your pad backing shim is wonky and has pushed the pad out against the disc on the trailing side, so in reverse it grabs the pad and causes the squeal you mentioned. The tight spot could be a dicky ball joint, tie rod or something funky going on in your steering box. Unfortunately the only way to isolate the problem is to start unbolting bits and one-by-one, move them find the component that's binding up.
  17. gerg

    wagon leafs into ute?

    Despite moving the axle centreline higher above the spring (creating more leverage to cause spring wind-up), I think axle tramp should be overall reduced as you're drastically firming up the spring. If you're worried about ride quality, give the springs a bit of a grease-up between leaves, then wipe off and paint over the lot. Leaf springs ride so much better when they can slide nicely over each other when working.
  18. gerg

    Building a Clevo

    My XE 302 wags runs a V8 radiator with EF fans wired in series (half speed). I had to chop the fan housing to suit the totally different radiator but it works a treat. It's never climbed above half on the gauge, even in Sydney traffic.
  19. gerg

    Crossflow ignition systems

    I really like the simplicity of the MSD, if you can first get your head around the terminology they use. And fully progammable can't be beaten by any amount of preset maps by anybody. I can't vouch for the effectiveness of either system but as soon as the dollars are there I'll be going MSD all the way. On paper at least, it's way ahead of anything else out there for the money.
  20. gerg

    wagon leafs into ute?

    Ute/wagon are same length, sedan is around 5 inches shorter (I measured both my XB coupe and my wagon). I'm doing this swap but opposite (ute springs to XE wagon). It currently has ridiculously high-set springs thus the reason for swapping. I'm worried about it still sitting too high. On a 5-leaf pack, which leaf would you remove to drop it maybe an inch or so?
  21. gerg

    wagon leafs into ute?

    This would no doubt take a tremendous amount of talent to do all at once so I commend you.
  22. gerg

    24v from 12v system

    Like what Hendrix said, the input voltage has no bearing on what light it puts out. It would be reg'd back down to suit the low voltage requirement of LEDs anyway. Most electronics, including LEDs, run on 5 volts, some use as little as 2V.
  23. gerg

    bent pushrod ????????????

    here's my thread on crook cams and lifters: http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/962-Best-camshaft-brands---Aussie-preferred
  24. gerg

    bent pushrod ????????????

    Precision International - 17 bucks for a set of 4 US-made Johnson HiLift Hydraulic type. That's 68 bucks for a V8, Probably 90 bucks to your door. Get a cam while you're at it, their Dynotec cams are only $121 and are the same blanks as Crow. Good insurance, otherwise your old cam has to break in all over again with the new lifters.... Ask me how i know.
  25. gerg

    Simmons website?

    Funny how the video shows, in dramatic fashion, the wheels being assembled in-house, which would lead you to believe that they're cast here too. What a shame. For the money, I'd certainly want them to be.
×