gerg

Not sure what brand they'd be but there are plenty of flow rate tables that people have put up online to look at the various brands, spray patterns, resistance, etc. If they're Denso, then they might be available from other makes too, like Toyota, etc. I know 7MGE green injectors flow well, around 315 cc I think.

Mazda 4-rotor: Lancia Stratos at 3:00 Group B (various) Insane power... No wonder they were outlawed Big block Cobra

BRM V16: At 0:40... yummy!

I thought regardless of what emissions it made, it had to start out as an ADR-compliant engine equal to or better than what's on the vehicle's compliance. Otherwise you could put a Clevo in a BA falcs and if you could get it to run clean enough, no probs. I highly doubt that.

I think you're under-estimating the potential of your setup Sly. It's not like you're strapping a fart-can to a Hyundai. It's a dedicated, well-flowing system that has no sharp bends, rapid change in size or any shearing to the flow of the gas. The twin systems that you might not like are the separate L & R ones with 1-2-3 and 4-5-6 going to each. They do sound terrible. However yours with the x-pipe effectively joins the two "banks" so the sound will be 6 firing pulses from each pipe, not 3 as with the other setup. Another factor is the camshaft and breathing potential of the engine. If you over-exhaust a stock engine, you get that horrible ear-piercing bark like you used to hear from Geminis. Yours however is not stock. The pipes will be accommodated easily by the flow potential of the cam and engine. Just remember too, one of the most glorious-sounding inline sixes in history, the Jag 6, is a long-stroke engine... with twin pipes!

I stand corrected... Cheers

Cortinas used euro 4-stud, same as Audi and Saab with 114mm pcd from memory.

Not easy to explain quickly but a few things on this kind of engine all conspire to not tolerate too much compression: - iron head - mild cam - long stroke/short piston dwell time Iron head: why Ford went to alloy after 4 years of iron. Mild cam: this has the peak torque (and cylinder pressure) right in the meat of regular cruise rpm, meaning full timing can't be used, and economy suffers. Dwell time: on long stroke/ short rod engines, the piston spends less time sitting at TDC so timing is more critical and if fired too early, the piston is still coming up to the top while the mixture is being ignited. Extra compression will make the problem worse. I had a straight gas 4.1 Corty and used to pull my hair out getting the timing right with the stock dizzy. Seems these engines are very fussy. In comparison, my 302C (high rod/stroke ratio) takes upwards of 40 deg at idle and runs as smooth as glass. Nevertheless I have MSD programmable now and have never looked back.

See?.... Tits.

I reckon go to a place like Clark Rubber, buy a sheet of foam rubber and cut new ones using the old ones as a template

Shaker FTW They look tits

The AFM has moving parts that wear over time. Firstly, check that the vane is moving freely. Also check that it returns to rest smoothly and easily. The part that wears most is the variable resistor under the blue lid on top of the meter. The lid is glued on with sealant, so after you pry it off, you'll see a copper contact arm (which is attached to the vane) that sweeps through an arc on the carbon resistor plate. As the vane (and arm) moves with the increased load and airflow, the resistance changes and the computer sees this as a voltage change. It then knows how much air is going in, then calculates fuel accordingly. If the contact arm wears a groove in the carbon, the computer might get the wrong resistance at a particular point in the arc, thus giving the engine the wrong amount of fuel, or none at all. You can do a little dodgy and bend the arm so it contacts on a fresh part of the carbon. It might only need a couple of mm inwards and that's all. Just don't bend it so it's advanced or retarded in relation to the vane, otherwise it will throw everything out. You can tune it to an extent by changing the spring tension and the arm angle, as well as turning the idle mixture screw in the bypass port. I'd really only play with the last one unless I knew what I was doing.

I wouldn't even run a HV pump on a Clevo, unless running loose race clearances, hyd lifters and no oil restrictors. All you do is empty the sump quicker and fill the top end of the motor when revving it out. Stresses the oil pump drive too, especially when cold. I've blown off 4 oil filters when cold starting mine, which I suspect was fitted with a HV pump. Crossys would be no different. Make sure you specify 6AL-Programmable and run a locked dizzy. So much better than the 6AL-2, which is just a plain spark amplifier and works off your petrol curve. Gas needs more initial and less total timing. A programmable one is able to be tailored to your cam, fuel type, running temperature and driving style. Running a standard petrol curve on gas will always be a compromise of either retarded initial timing (to get total correct) or advancing initial (and having too much total). Gas takes shitloads of timing to get it to ping and you'll be pulling your hair out trying to figure out the difference between advanced and retarded going by the feel of it. They both feel very similar with gas. If I had such a luxury on my LPG Corty I'd be happier than a dog with two dicks. Build an LPG donk with a cam one or two sizes up from the petrol equivalent. As said already, the gas takes up more space in the inlet tract so the engine has to breathe harder to make the same power. I'd run the biggest valves possible and take some out of the throat too. Work on 20% more flow for the same power and you'll be about right. Example: BA 6 cyl petrol: 182 kW BA 6 cyl LPG : 152 kW Gas version uses same head and manifold.

Hmm a 302C with 4Vs sounds a little suss, I wonder what kind of engine it was... If that's the case, would be a screamer with no bottom end balls. Makes one wonder if they actually are 4Vs. Do you have pics of them? How did you identify them as 4V? You could reach that power goal with 4Vs with a little work, but even then alloys will still be better all-round.

Clevo120Y has done some great work and has flowed a set and got a bit less than that from stockers if I remember rightly, but a ported set might get 400 hp if done right. Most alloys will beat that out of the box, and you can run an extra point of compression over stock.

If the MSD you're referring to is the programmable type, then it's well worth stretching to that for your your LPG setup. They might only be 200 bucks more or so than the plain one but seeing as has needs a totally different curve to petrol, it will benefit more than anything else.

The point is that it should be a straight bolt-on. For the amount of money these things cost, you'd expect that. Decking the block or shaving the head should only affect the port alignment, and have no effect on the distance between the manifold and port face. I just don't get how you could screw up a Clevo manifold. They only ever came in one block size, unlike Windsors.

That would mean they'd have to stick out past the block face and the valley end rails in order to meet up with the manifold. Sounds goofy to me

http://www.crowcams.com.au/catalogue.aspx Something like the 6th or 7th one down on the 250 cross flow page would be fine with stock valve gear, not saying to go with this mob, this is just as a guide. I'm running the 204/214 in my 302 and it's a good street cam. If you definitely want lope, go with the 214/224.

Do any of the bolt holes line up? What about the ports? In any case, I think too much has been machined off the faces. Can you return it?

So you can then convince unsuspecting customers that it's the path to performance. I don't know why everyone else doesn't do it... Must be the world's best kept secret. All those engineers must have been wrong all along.

All good advice, and to simplify, exhaust, cam, carby and compression are what make power, and are all dependent on each other. You don't just do one and expect noticeable gains. I would say 20% more power and torque are achievable without losing economy or driveability, If you match everything. The 350 Holley is a classic upgrade, but not the best for economy. The 34 ADM is a better choice in that regard. A "towing" cam is pretty fool-proof, with sweet idle and very useable midrange. Perfect for a tractor engine like this. Next step would be a 208/208@0.050 from Dynotec or Crow. Any bigger than this would need stiffer valve springs and better rockers. Also a bigger cam would come in later and just when it's time to boogie, the heads run out of puff. Don't skimp on the lifters. Get good quality ones and then forget about them. I wouldn't touch the compression at all. Long-stroke engines don't like it, especially with mild cams. Keep your 2.92 diff, as I'm finding my 3.27 a bit short with my 302. If you've got good torque, use it with tall gears, you can get away with much less gearchanges if you have longer legs. Also when taking off in a manual and you have short gearing, a lot of the power is wasted accelerating the engine itself and then even more time is lost changing gears all the time.

Sounds pretty tits but I reckon needs some hotdogs in there to kill a bit of the slap. My own opinion of course.

Lots of good info here folks... Good thread I think hyd lifters in general are softer on the rest of the valve train, due to the fluid cushioning built into them. Solids could perhaps transmit a lot more shock loading throughout and this is also taken up in the poor little needle rollers in the case of roller-type, and if they start to gall or have Brinelling, it's all downhill from there. Maybe that's why they're now making them bushed, to spread the load better across the pivot. 86-on 5.0 Windsors had hyd rollers from factory, and if they passed the Ford durability test, then they're fine in my books. Sure the cams are pissy but they're tons better than any equivalent flat tappet.

G'day mate, sounds like your calliper lever(s) are sticking. You need to undo the 13mm bolt that holds the hand brake lever to the square peg and then remove the rubber dust seal behind it. Spray some brake cleaner in there next to the shaft and turn it a little bit with some pliers, then spray it some more. Keep doing this until it runs out clean. Squirt some rubber-friendly lube in there like ATF or rubber grease, chuck the seal back in and then the lever & bolt. Return spring goes on last with a bit of muscle. Couple of points: •Don't rotate the shaft too much, as it's on a helix, you'll have a shit time trying to dig it back out or have to push the piston back while winding it in. •make sure your return springs aren't stretched and are getting maximum pull: ie there is tension all the way back to rest.