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Ok here goes... 235 60 R16 on 16 X 8 ET-10 steelies. Lip clearance is good so far, no rubs after approx 100km suburban driving. Spring clearance is about 3" from a pretty bulgey sidewall As is chassis rail and body seam (maybe slightly less clearance) And overall stance Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Would make a pretty good helicopter gearbox though Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Lol.. mine was doing about 25k a year when it was my daily. Should've bought oil shares Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

I'm about to bolt on a set of 16x8 -10 with 235 60s on the back, very confident that everything will clear, will post results. Also, 16x8 +10 on the front comes very close to the ball joint so will also post results. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

That's disappointing, I've had a pretty flawless run with NGKs up until now. Not a Crossy but I've run BP4FS in my clevo and were pretty good but the MSD chews them out pretty quickly. I ran BP6FS previous to that but they fouled in a short time (too cold). I think the optimum is 5s. Although recently, I did encounter a head-scratcher with a Honda sweeper engine on LPG... It would run great for about 30 seconds, start coughing, then die. Start up again, 30 seconds... cough.... die. After rebuilding then replacing the converter, stuffing around with everything else, I finally just shoved in a spare (wrong) plug I had lying around and suddenly it ran like a clock. It was the bloody spark plug all along. It was a BPR5ES and I smashed it apart to see what the go was inside and found the resistor (a little carbon pellet) looked a bit broken down and corroded. So this could be a problem with NGK resistor plugs in that regard. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Yeah they tell you on the bottle if it's LSD compatible. Generally 2 litres is enough for a Borg Warner, 9" probably takes slightly more so I reckon 3 litres would be needed, keep the rest for top-up later. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

In that case, the bearing noise might be from rust due to moisture buildup or the diff getting wet while being stored. I have a bad wheel bearing noise due to rain getting in to the bearing race as I was building it up outside. You really have to make sure you get LSD oil. Normal 80W90 is not going to work. LSD oil is normally 85W140 unless it's synthetic. The whirring noise when warm would just be the thinner oil not dampening everything like it does when it's cold and still as thick as honey. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

The clunking would be the LSD clutch plates chattering (as you mentioned it's a tight LSD). Maybe try some fresh LSD oil and/or some additive to help with the issue? Failing that, it could just be set up too tight. Unfortunately, that requires a full strip down to access the preload springs and shims, etc. The noise is likely worn bearings which also could be putting the tooth contact out of whack when under load. This will need a full rebuild with new bearings, seals and an expert to assemble it all. Building diffs properly is a dark art that even most mechanics find hard to grasp. If it's just a tooth contact issue in regards to carrier adjustment (ie poor assembly), this is fixable by adjusting the carrier bearing adjuster wheels (vs shims on a BW diff) so you'd be in luck somewhat there. You still need to pull the axles and remove the centre to do this. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

If you can get to a produce store, you can buy bulk molasses and dip them in that for a week or two. Apparently a very good old-school method Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

I reckon the Weiand will be a better manifold on anything but a drag car. Looks like quite a nice design. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Even if the pillow needs sleeves, still worth it. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Haha there's always one that you can work the word "crime" into. Yeah we got heaps in Sydney... Chestnut will vouch for that Cranebrook = Crimebrook Mount Druitt = "the Druitt", Mounty County or just 2770 Rooty Hill = Shagger's Ridge Minto = Minno Lalor Park = Trailer Park Sutherland = "The Shire" Werrington = Derro-ton Penrith = The Riff Blacktown = Slacktown Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

I love suburb nicknames that locals give them, and for very real reasons [emoji23] Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Bloody hell mate, where do you find all these gems? Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Well a 4MA-B is supposedly a modular 351 crank with Brinell hardness testing. Is that the case with these? Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

s*** bro that's a total bummer .. I dunno why they do it as clevos don't have this issue. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Are 400s ok to go out to 40? because they often say Clevos can only go 30 unless you get it sonic checked and have a nice straight water jacket (no core shift) Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Unless there's pitting or chrome peeling on the piston seal surface or in the groove where the seal goes, there's not much to worry about. A bit of soft scotchbrite will bring up all the important areas. Just a tube of rubber grease for assembly and you're there. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Good stuff, get old mate to check down in the valley where they crack halfway up the hill each side Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

I thought Pillow blocks were only in the very last run of castings, with which Ford ran them out on De Tomaso stock and they were still installing them up until 1988. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

I'd take a punt and say that they went with the later size hole drilled, as some ended up coming back and getting shoved into ambulances, etc. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Funny enough, there are some people who go hunting for them. As 200s and 3.3s weren't too common, it's a bit of a find when you do come across them. If I was going to build a stout 250, I would probably go that way if pistons were still available. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Re: the ported manifolds @ando76 has had much experience with speedway stock classes, he would be familiar with this process. Some have been known to cut open the stock inlet manifold, port it out as they please, weld it all back together, smooth it over and carefully peen it with a hammer and 60 grit emery cloth. This gave a factory "as cast" appearance. The method that was used a lot in the States but I haven't heard of being done here is extrude honing. They basically pump silly putty that's impregnated with abrasives, through the ports under high pressure until a certain amount of metal is removed and a decent surface finish has been achieved. They did this a lot with 5.0 Mustang manifolds as they were so long in the runners that porting was impossible. They would pick up quite a lot of power doing this, maybe 40 hp or so. It's a redundant process nowadays because it's much cheaper to just buy a good 5.0 manifold in the first place. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

As far as I know, until they developed the powdered-metal rods that you see in most engines now, all conrods were forged. I can't see Ford going to the trouble of making a separate set of conrods (for an economy engine) using a completely different manufacturing method to the garden variety 250 rods. 200 rods are nothing special in a metallurgical sense. They are just longer and are used in some 250 builds to somewhat correct the high rod angle. As a guide, forged components will have a wider parting line than cast. It's the rough ridge down the side of the conrod's beam. It will be 5-10mm wide vs only a mm or two for cast. This was a sure-fire way of identifying forged cranks. The difference comes from moulds being liquid-tight so the halves are very close together (hence the narrow parting line). Forging dies just hammer out the final shape from a series of progressive dies while the metal is in a plastic (pliable) but not liquid state. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Yeah all good points Michael, generally the more cam you have, the flatter the ignition curve will be. 8 degrees sounds very conservative given that you've got a bit of a cam happening. I would start at 15 , ramp up to 25 at 3000 then 30 at 5000 and see where that gets you. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk