gerg

Still building it up now, but if it doesn't work, I'm going down this path: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Demon-Carburetion-625-cfm-Street-Demon-Carburetor-DEM1902-/281023394001?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item416e4cb0d1 Plenty of rave reviews and a full-circle back to the ThermoQuad style

M10x1.5 needs an 8.5 mm drill. Any bigger and you don't have enough meat to cut a thread Stock bolts are 5/16 UNC I believe. If you've gone out to M10 then it may be already too late to helicoil it, as you may have gone out past the drill/tap size for the 5/16 insert. If going down that route, I certainly wouldn't drill it any more. I would say that a 5/16-18 heli needs a 9.5 drill and appropriate tap. You may need to step up to 3/8 in your case

Maybe like Adrian said and also use a stud on it so you're not torquing the fuck out of the iron thread.

Stock Clevo manifold to exhaust flange use brass nuts on studs from factory.

Those alloy heads had a habit of creeping the bolts out on both to he exhaust and inlet. Studs might be the go with brass nuts, will never seize that way.

Most cars with variable cam timing don't need egr... It's programmed into the cam advance so there's leftover gases in the cylinder on light load/overrun conditions to slow down combustion and reduce NOx.

My Clevo is running EF fans at half speed, only got warm on the hottest of days. Any other time, sits bang on 1/2 way up the gauge.<br /><br />I am running about 35 deg advance at idle (MSD programmable) and it makes a big difference to the temp. I'd give the timing a bump up to 12 and run vac advance from the manifold, not from the carby (ported). Clevos can handle 40 deg total, so keep that in mind too. Factory timing is way retarded in my opinion. They have to allow for all conditions: ie towing a tri-axle caravan across the Nullabor using shit fuel with the aircon going. Nobody actually does that so you have a lot of leeway in adjusting the base timing up to what your engine wants, especially if it has a bit of a cam.

Just a thought, is there a chance of running it to the timing cover?

Yeah just crank her over with a couple of pumps on the accelerator. Idle screws won't matter much when it's running cold and choke is on.<br /><br />If you have a barb on the fuel inlet you're set, if not, you're up shit creek. They're a funny thread that is specific only to Carters, and can't be bought at your average parts store. The factory one has a built-in gauze that can block up.<br /><br />Carbies are simple animals, all you need is fuel, throttle and vacuum (a good seal). Plug up all of the vac hoses and it should run no probs.

Any kind of headers are better than a stock manifold, and look like block huggers but as stated, there are better ones out there. They mention "designed and developed in Australia" meaning they're probably made in China.

Ok my bad, somehow I thought you had some 3" in there too. How long is the 2-1/2" section on your headers after the merge? I'd personally cut it and neck it down with the more gentle of the tapers to 2-1/4" straight after the merge (to keep the velocity up) and a foot or two after that you can then flare it back out to 2-1/2" with the sharper taper to act as a reversion dam.

Yet another... Molasses dipping to remove rust. Apparently it's better than blasting or rust converting, but takes weeks to do.

The safety switch should only light up for a second to prime the system when you initially turn the key. It only then comes on after it senses ignition pulses (cranking/running)... any other time, it's off. This is the whole point of the switch: to shut the gas off when the engine is stopped.

You don't realise how shit a clutch gets as it gradually wears out, until you drive with your new one. I'd go at least 30% stronger... It will just feel right.

So you're effectively making an expansion chamber. I think there are formulas for calculating them available online. They are rpm-specific and must be calculated using engine displacement and VE as well. Just looking at what you've got, I'm thinking you'll need a much longer section of 3" before tapering back down. I take it you're not running a cat.

Sounds like the converter is playing up. They fill up with tar-like residue and give all sorts of dramas. They're rebuildable depending on the brand, sometimes cheaper to buy new. Must be installed by qualified LPG mechanic.<br /><br />Try adjusting idle mixture first though.

Just read about some methods for brightening up some die-cast (zinc) items, like Holleys and various body mouldings... Smear with tomato paste! I'll be trying it later on my Holley bits Update: comes out looking like new(ish) gal steel, with the large "grains" of shiny bits you normally see on the surface. Longer time would have made more difference I think.

Another thing that cleans up your hands really well is giving the car a wash, or doing the dishes... I know what I'd rather do.

Just need to make sure it's all washed off completely afterwards... Washing powders often contain salt

And another advantage is that even if you thought you had absolutely no cuts on your hands, you'll soon find out that you do, big times.

I know exactly what you mean XC, I should know better as my current Holley (bought second hand) is a mongrel made up of various bits, but the one I've just bought is professionally hot run-tested and I suspect that it's a clearance from Hume Performance's old stock. Being a spread-bore, it has to be better in some way. I'll post some results after I've fitted it up and driven a tank worth of fuel through it. UPDATE: After pulling it down, it needs a kit. Bowls were corroded, one jet had to be removed with an easy-out, and secondary diapragm was shredded. Everything else seems ok, throttle shafts have minimal play. No choke fitted. Jets were 60/64, Power valves were 5.5/6.5. I found it weird to have that size in the primaries and must have been fitted by someone. As far as i know, ALL Holleys come with 6.5s Rebuild kits are pricey at $89, so I just got all the gaskets I needed individually, ended up being less than $40 with a diapragm. I'd suggest going this way if you're doing up a carby, as they give you shitloads of stuff in the kit that you dont need. It takes funny fittings (9/16x24) so i made some up at work by sweating some 5/16 copper tube into some brass inserts. Looks a bit ghetto but will work.

Looks like you're up for a new clutch kit unfortunately. Such a minute adjustment between slipping and not disengaging means your diaphragm fingers are worn and flexing, instead of moving the pressure plate. Now's your chance to put in something decent and get your flywheel skimmed and lightened. Mine cost 600 bucks to be lightened, skimmed and drilled for 6-bolt heavy duty clutch (included in price also).

Cheers mate, yeah I think a 650 double is way too big for a stock 302... A warm 351 would be the minimum I'd put one of them on. This one's a vac secondary so will be much tamer on my 302.

That would be nice but mortgage, kids, blah blah usual story... I think 90 bucks is worth the gamble, unless it's a disaster waiting to happen, hence the original question.

Page 23: look at modifications not covered under LA2 http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/pdf/NCOP3_Section_LA_Engine_01jan2011_v3.pdf MODIFICATIONS NOT COVERED UNDER CODE LA2The following is a summary of the modifications that may not be performed under Code LA2: Fitting of a replacement engine that does not comply with the applicable ADRs; Your ADR relating to emissions, ADR 27C, came into effect for passenger cars after 1/83, incidentally the date after which the Cleveland V8 was no longer fitted to Falcons. Page 39 (in the table) http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/pdf/NCOP10_Section_LO_ADRs_ICVs_1Jan2011_v2.pdf So sifting through this mess, you can see that for use on public roads, your engine choice is technically not legal for that car.