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wow a bittersweet end to all of your work... While I'm sure you're pretty chuffed at the result (and I would be) it's a bit disheartening to see your blood, sweat and tears go off with a bang just like that. And does this bloke have money to burn? If so, tell him to send it my way instead!

Got it all jetted nicely now at 61/68, purple secondary spring is a bit stiff (needs yellow or white I reckon), power valves 6.5/6.5. Pulls beautifully from idle in all gears, just has that dip before the secondaries decide to open at bang-on 2500 rpm. One problem that aluminium carbs have is heat soak, boiling the fuel in the bowls when stuck in traffic on a hot day. Causes poor idle and stalling. Made worse by the stock air cleaner acting as a big umbrella trapping in hot air from the engine underneath. Only fix is a shaker Haven't needed any choke yet, which is just as well because it came with none. Annular boosters are great for atomisation, particularly when cold. Wait till winter comes with crunchy lawns and icy windscreens... We will see. Hard to tell what economy is like right now, as the 95 fuel seems to screw up the fuel gauge. Not E10 though funnily enough. All round, I'd say these carbys are very good and deserved a better reputation than what they've received. I think it was people's reluctance to change that killed them in the end. they dont look like a normal Holley either. If you see one at a swap meet or for sale online, and the price is right, give it a go. As long as the moving parts are all there and throttle shafts don't flop too much, you're on a winner.

Like a BAWS!

If using stock bits, your cam selection may be limited to the first 3 or 4 rows down from the top of the list of specs. They generally start at mild and get wilder from there. Although mine is a 302C, the characteristics would be the same for a crossy, and my specs are 206/214 @ 0.050" (the most important spec for duration) and mine idles like a silly stocker and will go down to 500 rpm if adjusted so. Being a smaller motor than the 351 the cam's designed for, things happen a bit later in the rpm range. Mine starts waking up at about 2500, really gets up at 3500, continues to 5000 and slowly tapers off to my 5500 limit. That said, I can easily pull in 4th from 1000 rpm no sweat. A crossy would do it even easier than that, having a dirty big stroke for more leverage (torque). Would you like an explanation of cam specs? You just might learn something....

The cross flow head is a pretty good unit and has a bit of headroom to work with before it becomes a limitation. Certainly for your application, it's pretty much spot-on without too much modification. Maybe a tidy up of the bowls and short-turn and that's it. Sounds like you need a towing cam or one above that, say a 208/208 @ 0.050" but with no more than 0.500" lift to keep your stock valve train. Stock crossies run out of flow above 0.450" lift anyway. If you're after a really good deal, go with Precision International for all your bits. They sell a cam called "Dynotec" and are very cheap. When compared to a Crow I bought, it looked identical, they even use the same blanks! Compression should be below 9.5 with a mild cam like that. Just a light skim off the head and deck will get you there, depending on what comp you're starting with. You may benefit from a couple of tricks that the V8 crowd like to use, like dividing the barrels between cylinder groups to get better low-end response. In your case, you'd simply put a divider between the two halves of the throat in the manifold, separating 1-2-3 from 4-5-6 evenly. You could fab one out of sheet ally and epoxy it in or get it welded. This in effect turns your setup into two single barrel carbs. Your idle will be sweeter and torque should improve. Also you could put a 2-hole spacer under the carby to straighten out the flow from the barrels into the manifold. The 350 is a well-sized carby for this application. However some old Holden boys at work talk of the old Stromberg WW-2 found on 253s and some 302 Fords and how they felt this was a better carby all round. I used one briefly on my Corty and it went well but went to LPG not long after. Good luck finding one now though. You didn't say what manifold you had, but I'm assuming that it's something like a Redline. These aren't that good for fuel distribution but could be helped along with a but of tickling on the tight corners both on 1 and 6 and into the plenum from the carby. If you really want to get into it, find a single point EA manifold and graft it into the cross-flow port flanges. These are nicely shaped and would make a nice street manifold. Go with 6-2-1 extractors for more space and better torque. 6-3-1s sound nicer though. Yes Slydog is very correct in everything he mentioned, including my love of MSD programmable. It really wakes up any pre-efi engine and in conjunction with a GM map sensor, eliminates all mechanically variable timing, plus has other features like switched retard (say you come across shit fuel) and rev limit, plus a whole lot of other stuff. There are folks on here who know how to make the TFI dizzy talk to them so there's a wealth of info for you. Sorry for crapping on, it's a bit much to take in but we're all sharing whatever knowledge we can. Have fun!

My 650 spread bore on my 302 runs a purple and opens at about 2500. I think I might go lighter as you can feel the kick so that means it's opening too late.

A table I made using data from Holley on a 350 CID engine, showing secondary opening rpm for all the different springs Note: this is under full load. You will not get your secondaries to open when revving under no-load. /> The two yellow ones are so close together they should hardly have bothered, but maybe they have different curves (only data I could get was start and fully opened). In fact I'm sure the lines would actually look like curves if plotted correctly. Note that when using a black spring, the secondaries don't actually fully open. There is data available for a 402 cid engine and seems exactly the same except everything happens earlier. The black spring doesnt fully open on that one either

Got mine from an eBay shop called "Parts Lunacy" for about 17 bucks delivered. Fitment is a bit fiddly but easily doable. Mine needed some super gluing of a shaft from memory as well

I would not have thought that jet size would affect idle at all, but if that's your experience, then duly noted. I had previously compared it to having a hand trigger on your garden hose, turned right down till it's a tiny spray (ie your idle feeds), and turning the tap on full (like your main jets). Turning the tap up or down (ie changing jet size) doesn't affect your flow at the trigger because that's the higher restriction, not the tap.

Great write-up mate, but my problem seems to have the opposite effect to what you described there. E10 appears to be consumed at a reasonably linear rate on the gauge and uses the full sweep of the needle, full to empty. 95 and 98 however are a different story. After filling to the same level from the bowser, the premium fuels show less on the gauge and seem to move down more quickly. Could this be a corroded unit giving a reduced capacitance reading from a higher resistance?

On this topic, anyone notice that these senders read different fuels at very different levels? I normally run E10 and the gauge is quite accurate, but this last tank I scored 95 at E10 price so glug-glug, gun clicked off twice so she was chockers, and then away I go driving with the gauge only showing about 80%. I noticed this with 98 too. Seems to read around 1/3 less the whole tank. Is there something screwy going on with the way these gauges sense the fuel?

I have found a few tricks (and problems) with Holleys that you don't read about: • The plastic vac secondary covers are rubbish. I had one warp and gave absolutely no seal on the diaphragm, hence no secondaries. Either toss it for the old metal type or (at a pinch) surface plate it down flat again. • The old style ball check accelerator pumps are pretty rubbish too. Never seal properly, drain back over time and take up too much throttle movement before working. Trouble is, to change to the (much better) umbrella type, you need to change float bowls. • A warped carby body can give a false impression of a blown power valve. The surrounding gasket area near the power valve chamber can suck fuel down from the ports that feed the boosters, giving the idea that the leak is power valve related. A good file-flat finish on the surface that meets the meter block should cure this problem. NEVER file the outside ridge off the meter block where the gasket seals. • Reverse-idle ("emissions" style) 4160 Holleys have a bad rep for lacking tuneability in the idle circuit, but one positive spin-off of having this setup is that adjusting idle mixture adjusts transfer slot mixture as well, much better for dialing in an idle/cruise tune. Normal Holleys adjust idle only, transfer is fixed from factory. Still, didn't help me much though, my carby still drank like a fish.

It would be illegal anyway, as your wheel track cannot vary by more than 25 mm inwards or outwards on any axle. If your figures are correct, the wheels will sit inwards by 24+24mm, or 48 mm total, which makes your track width way too narrow.

There are lots of differing opinions on power valve selection. Some say you should subtract 2 from your vac reading and go to the closest size PV but that's more for straight out racing. For a street setup, Holley says you should halve your idle vac reading to get your PV size, which you did. However, your vac at idle seems artificially low for that size cam, meaning your setup needs tweaking before arriving at a final number. I should think your vac reading needs to be more like 12 at idle. Needless to say, if it went well with a 6.5, then that's what your engine wants. Jets seem to be on the rich side but if it goes well up top, there's your proof. Like Slydog said, try squaring them up a bit more, like 72/76 or so. Btw double pumpers are not a street carby. They have big power valve channels, big idle feed restrictions and transition circuit designed for all-out performance. They can be made to be efficient with a lot of tweaking but you have to know what you're doing. This explains your rich idle, which has nothing to do with your jet sizes. Maybe play with the air bleeds? My little 302 runs a 270/280@112 cam and pulls at least 15" at idle. You should look at the PCV, transfer slot opening and other sources of vacuum leaks. Check timing: maybe it needs full time vacuum advance to get it all running sweet. It just doesnt sound right how it is.

Let us know if you need help choosing jets, etc. Just fitted a 650 vac to my 302 and I'm in the zone you see.

I'm using Penrite 20W60 in my Clevo and it holds good pressure when hot. Mine is only 20,000 k's old though.

I'd say it's made in two separate sections that are somehow welded and smoothed over to look like one piece. Like a bit of booker bar welded to the forged section instead of cutting a thread into the steel forging and needing special tooling to do so. Done on the cheap in other words. The shit thing is that if you or I welded a suspension component (illegal) we'd be liable if it failed. This bloke did the right thing and got shafted anyway.

I've fitted a cross-flow starter to mine, there's a write up here on how I did it: http://www.xfalcon.com/forums/index.php?/topic/38734-6-cyl-crossy-starter-to-clevo-any-issues/?fromsearch=1<br /><br />You'll either need to drill both bolt holes out to 3/8" and use a through-bolt and nut on the top one, or drill just the bottom one and tap out the top one to 3/8" UNC to take the standard Clevo arrangement.

If the engine is cranking over ok, that tells you how healthy your battery and cables are. This is the most work they will ever have to do. The tape is just insulation, so as long as there is no bare wire it's fine. Earth doesn't matter anyway, it can only short out to earth, which it does anyway

Teeing off with something else won't work as that something else will lose vacuum through the canister. I had this problem with the supply to the heater controls being teed off the canister purge line and lost all operation of them. They need separate supplies. You should have some vacuum trees from your manifold to go off, or your PVC line. That's assuming you have a stocker. Otherwise, drill, tap and install an extra barb to suit.

Also if you've flattened your battery, a good drive of more than say 1/2 hour is needed, otherwise you get what's called "surface charge", where the battery volts seem to come back to normal after a short run, but the alternator hasn't actually pumped enough juice for long enough back into the battery. Best thing is an overnight charge.

Those gauges are notoriously bad for flickering. My XE does this as does any XD-E analogue dash. There is an earth problem somewhere along the line and there are threads around that explain the fix.<br /><br />If measuring with a multi, and the volts don't come up after starting means that something's wrong with the charging system. Could be reg/brushes, or a blown diode. Is the alt light glowing very dimly when running?

You could see by simply revving the engine up to say 3000 and watching the volts. That should be well and truly enough rpm to see if you have a drama with alt speed or not. Sounds to me like the alt is cactus.

It also won't handle full engine oil pressure. That's an auto cooler as part of a tow pack or something, rated at less than say 20 psi as part of the lube circuit of the tranny. If you were to actually use it as an engine oil cooler, it would have to be fed from a tee off from the system with a flow restrictor before it and returned back to the sump with no restrictions to build up any kind of pressure in it Let me tell you, any rupturing of your engine oil system will empty your sump in seconds. Ask me how I know.. Ok I'll tell you: my fresh Clevo has so far blown off 4 oil filters, and when it does happen, it does so in the time it takes to put my seatbelt on, put it into reverse and take the handbrake off. My oil gauge is showing zero and the driveway is smothered in 4.5 litres of lovely black 20W50. That's how long you've got when something blows... At idle!

Dyna bolts are for concrete... you'll just push the cast iron apart as you tighten it, possibly stuffing the front of the block. I'd get a Helicoil kit for a 3/8" thread, tap out to size, then install a stud and drill out the bolt hole in the pump and alt bracket to suit. Added bonus is the extra strength of going up a size, plus if you use a stud, you can tighten the nut on the pump to the correct torque, then use another nut after that to tighten down on the alt bracket. If you can get a cordless drill in there, use that to drive the tap. It would be much easier to start your thread straight as you can concentrate on keeping it square as you first cut in. Obviously go slowly and on the slowest setting.