gerg

Wow really? I thought ATF was pretty benign stuff. Oh well, a trap for young players. Cheers for that

Is it 25 or 28 spline? You've probably broken a cross-shaft. Mine let go with no abuse, the centre basically sheared all the bolts off that hold it together. I don't actually know what caused it but was right pissed off. I have a 25-spline one-legger in there now and no dramas so far.

Use convection to your advantage and work with it... Hot in the top and cool out of the bottom, just like on a radiator. Hang it in the breeze for most effectiveness. Most coolers use a 3/8" hose but if you want you can step it up to any size you want. It's not high pressure, most tranny coolers run at lube pressure, say 30 psi max. EFI fuel hose is sufficient. This size hose would probably cycle the entire oil capacity of your box in less than a minute. The biggest source of heat in an auto is the converter, so depending on whether you're towing, doing burnouts, driving at high speed or drag racing will determine how big you want it to be. The more load, the more heat generated in the oil. Pretty simple. You should aim for a max temperature of about 80 deg, any more will break down the oil much more quickly. Run it past 120 deg and it will be stuffed in less than 20,000 ks. Keep the oil a nice strawberry topping colour and your tranny will love you for it. I reckon 1 foot square of cooler would be plenty big enough. Those sneaky ones that are long and skinny and only loop back once can go along the bottom of the radiator for minimum interference.

When Tickford had to come up with the T3 stroker engine, they tried all sorts of imported stroker kits and the engines did not pass the Ford durability tests, ending in "catastrophic failure". The boss of Tickford at the time described them as "rubbish". This is why the T3 5.6 contains many locally-sourced bits like a Harrop crank and Argo rods. I believe they used a custom piston too (unsure of brand)

I seem to remember some accounts of 347 stroker engines not lasting very long before piston and bore wear became an issue.

That video makes me giggle every time

Whoa.... Not cheap! The needle isn't easy to see either.

That's the approach I took going from 2.92 to 3.27 and it was spot-on. Was 19-tooth and now is 21.

If you've gone with a lower profile tyre, say from 195/65/r14 to 205/60/r15 then the rolling diameter should be pretty close, and not worth worrying about. If on the other hand you've changed it by more than 5% then there might be an issue. I'd check your speedo against a GPS first before losing sleep over it.

No you are wrong, I invented it all. You're extremely lucky that I am generous enough to share it all with you... Such is my vast, immeasurable talent that I am sometimes, wait... always in awe of myself for coming up with such mind-blowing, god-like, pure and original ideas. I also have a gargantuan, tree trunk-like penis.

I know it's not quite the same, but my little 302 runs a mild cam and uses closed heads, can tolerate about 45 deg of timing on E10, I've heard some accounts of closed chamber actually being more efficient due to the quench area creating more turbulence, eliminating dead spots and reducing detonation that way

Sweet! I think there's a lot more to be told of this topic

Someone on here said they're as wide as a big block Hemi... Dunno about that but I'd imagine that it would make a sweet combo in a light body like that

Maybe your worm gear is the earlier type with 7 instead of 8 teeth. Mine has 3.27s and uses the light green one and is spot on. That chart doesn't make any sense because 2.92 and 3.23 use a 19 tooth but 3.27 diff uses 21-tooth? Yet the other charts have the 3.23 and 3.27 both using 21-tooth. I guess you could just get a size up/down from your current one and just try it

Lol no I'm just a diesel mechanic. Besides I'd get the shits with first year apprentices carrying on like, well... 17 year olds.

Btw I've driven an FG XR6 and they're truly an awesome car. Handling is sublime and the 6-speed auto had heaps of punch... And I don't like slushers. Nice exhaust note too. I think they delete a resonator or something to give it a bit of character.

Don't get me wrong, rumble is nice and gets your attention, but some also like to not shit off their neighbours at 6:30 every morning going to work. On a weekend cruiser or a race car like yours Slydog, it's fine. Rear-mounted mufflers can be horribly boomy but one way to kill a bit of that is to not have the tip joined straight to the muffler but have 12-18" of pipe in between and also make sure the tip clears the edge of the bodywork.

I've heard varying opinions as to whether the XF T5 was world class or non-world class. Easy to tell by the lay shaft bearing on the front of the case. Flat surface = NWC, large central "dimple"= WC. I found out mine is the latter so I'm cheering, will fit it behind my 302 next clutch replacement.

I've found that the closer to the engine you mount the mufflers, the higher the resonant rpm of the system. Mounting them before the axle with nothing but pipe to the back will give you more gurgle/rasp. Mounting them after the axle gives more boom. Of course using a combo of both will cut noise in either range, which is the aim of most OEM designs. I personally prefer forward-mounted cans with straight pipes to the tips for a nice muscle-car gurgle

yep you're right on that Mr Polson, I think they got syncros in the early 70's, as Chargers also used them. Why the fuck they even bothered I don't know. Jap cars were coming out with five speeds back then. we were so backward... We didnt get decent 5-speed boxes until the EA

Good one Clevo, never knew about the breathing aspect of it.

S-Pack rims are as described above, silver with chrome dress rim and centre cap. GL-spec had (lol) hubcraps and the wheel underneath was the 4-spoke taxi style stocker rims. Both types were 14" but povvo one got 5.5", s-pack got 6" Hubcaps are the manufacturer's way of saying "our wheels look shit"

Short rods have the piston decelerating/accelerating at the top of the stroke much more abruptly than those on a long rod. This gives a rapid rate of compression and expansion accordingly. At lower rpm, this is supposed to help make more torque as the rod is acting at a more advantageous angle on the crank right at the peak of cylinder pressure occurring. At high rpm, this is a hindrance, as that rapid compression is very sensitive to ignition timing and the rapid acceleration of the piston after top dead starts to outrun the combustion, meaning power is lost. Imagine pedalling a BMX bike up to the speed where most of your energy is used pumping your legs rather than pushing on the pedals. There is a point where the pedals start to travel faster than what your legs can. The piston also undergoes more stress as the acceleration happens more suddenly, also there is more side thrust on the piston and bore due to the increased sideways angle of the rod. Imagine a ski boat being the crank pin, the rope is the conrod and the skier is the piston. The skier is being towed behind the boat and 20 metres offset to it. There is a certain amount of force trying to pull the skier sideways. Shorten the rope further and this angle increases, and force trying to pull the skier sideways becomes stronger. The force on the rope increases too because you are towing the same load but at an increased angle. Longer rods work better at high rpm for a few reasons: more gentle acceleration of the piston, more "dwell" time at tdc (to allow more time for combustion to occur before acting on the piston), less side thrust on the piston and engine is less sensitive to ignition timing. Gentler acceleration/deceleration of the pistons makes an engine smoother as there is less secondary vibration involved. I won't go into that as I have crapped on enough.

Still the undisputed king of useless information

A 6-way fleshlight? Uhh ok I'll sit this one out