gerg

I think there's about 0.020" difference between ODs of bearing retainers

The last one might just be a dark shot but it could be Satellite Brown like mine:

Nah mate, just a silly stocker S-pack wagon... I suspect a bit of plenum rust is the culprit, will have to cut it open one day, dreading it too

That's a pretty comprehensive package there mate, what is the total cost of it all? Is it within your budget? I can see a couple of issues: all that effort swapping callipers for the same stopping power as stock? Also I'd advise against cross-drilled rotors as they have a habit of cracking. Slotted is fine for the street. Have a look at Baer kits for Mustangs... Might be worth it if you're wanting to upgrade.

If the Japs did something like that it would be engineered to death to ensure it wasn't dodgy in any way... They are totally anal about everything working right. I suspect that setup would be there to run a higher pressure fuel supply to prevent starving fuel from the thirsty rotary but to reg it back down at the carby so it runs as it should.

Those engines are bloody great... Turbo, atmo, BA, BF, FG, I've driven them all and amaze me every time at their performance with such humble beginnings. From a cheap and simple engine in an American "economy car" 50 years ago, to its current form as a world-class powerplant, I think what Aussie engineering has shown in it is amazing. I'm really looking forward to seeing how your Corty runs with one in it. I should imagine that it will put many V8-converted ones to shame.

Your float level is there not just to stop the carby from flooding, but is actually a precise adjustment that works in conjunction with your emulsion tube, main jet and idle circuit. Get this wrong and the fuel will sit too far up the bowl and thus emulsion tube, meaning less air will have a chance to mix with the fuel in the tube and you'll be way rich. Same goes for idle circuit. Less emulsion air results also in poorer atomisation once the fuel hits the Venturi. So in short, run the float level that's designed for the carby and get around this flooding issue some other way.

Weird! Not a faulty seal around the heater inlet?

My XE is the same after rain but on passenger side. Shits me to no end... Makes the carpet smell like crap.

Didn't they go metric only on the very late XFs? Maybe 87-onwards? Cranks I mean... Flywheel bolts too

Biggest gains are with firmer castor rod bushes. If you can put up with slightly more road harshness, go with the firmest neoprene type to give a more direct feel, particularly on hard cornering/braking. Next step up is an RRS ball/socket arrangement, which is the ultimate, and pricey. The rest I'd go neoprene as well if your goal is for better than stock handling. Power steer box: there are needle roller conversions covered elsewhere here and are worthwhile upgrades.

How about a cobra-style oval filter? Available for single carbs as well as dual: http://www.ebay.com/sch/sis.html?_kw=FORD+4V+OVAL+AIR+CLEANER+COBRA+RACING+MUSTANG

Same... Running an apparently V8 spec rad in my XE 302, EF fans in series (half speed) and VDO fan switch at 87 deg. It only ever got warm sitting in shitty Sydney traffic in the middle of summer. Any other time, temp just sits above half. Cav you may have a problem elsewhere to be cooking it like that.

Dunno what makes a manufacturer decide the flash rate Polson, maybe it's a standard that varies from one company to the next

If they're short on their quota that day and can book you for something, then yeah sure, they can count.

OCD maybe but it's also law. Blinkers must flash at a rate between 60 and 120 per minute. That's 1-2 per second. Any slower or faster than that range is illegal.

Sorry Saginaw.... I knew it started with an "S" Stupid brain

They are in fact a GM Salisbury unit and were pretty much universal. The differences lie in pulley size and type, return hose nipple ouruentation and output pressure. The basic pump is very similar. I dare say a standard 6-cyl one will work.

Yeah dark colours around the engine make it hard to see what you're doing no matter how much light you have. White epoxy would be the go I reckon... Not cheap!

Looks like they can't even stick to their own rules... Better for us though

Any aircon tech worth their salt can cut off a crimped fitting and do another at a different angle and/or extend the hose/pipe to miss everything once you're done fitting the turbo gear.

351 diff should be a limo, box should be C4 or FMX, so swap the whole lot as the kind lads before have already said. Easier to swap the engine and tranny wholus bowlus to avoid fucking around with lining up converters and flex plates and crap like that. Power steer lines I think are the same (according to some parts mobs) but you'll want the V8 springs and sway bar if you don't want jelly handling and the car sniffing the road with it's bum in the air.

Ordered a stock Mellings from Precision, did it very late last night and was on my doorstep this arvo when I got home... That's stupidly quick! Seriously can't fault these guys to date. Very efficient service.

Tits.

Don't doubt it for a second mate and the key word I think is tuning. Factory setups are a repeatable, mass-produced state of tune (hence the rather loose standard) whereas our machines are more finely-honed instruments, having lavished much more time and money on getting them right. A bit of comp helps a lot in that respect but one thing I haven't mentioned is NOx, which makes it a three-way battle to get it running clean. Anyways I digress.... LPG is awesome!